Does anyone know, as you obviously dont go 180 degrees as they dont stretch

 

I followed the normal tightening sequence, finishing and checking after resting to 120 lb ft.
tabetha

 

tighten studs to 15ft-lb into the block

then 35lb-ft, 55lb-ft, 75lb-ft, then check for 110lb-ft

thats the torque setting given to me by GGR for my GGR stud & nut kit

 

they are not suitable for a yb use long stud or genuine standard head bolts

 

At least give an indepth reason why.

 

Because there shit

Raise the block up slightly around the holes i have heard, they can also crack the block around the front 2 studs. Then i might be talking crap but think thats what i was told Jase.

 

I know there are issues with long studding, but not normal Stud and Nut.

I cant understand how they could crack the block on normal studs there only following same holes and thread length as putting a head bolt

 

I was under the impression studding is better as its less likly to damage the thread taking head bolts in and out

 

They are a rolled thread so way way better than el cheapo ones.
If the block were weak enough for the mere placement of a stud to cause cracking then it would most likely self destruct the second you started it anyway.
What has likely happened in the past is some numpty has not cleared out the holes before putting in the studs, or done them up studpidly tight.
tabetha

 

the arp studs dont allow for the expansion of the head,like std bolts...hence they can pull threads or lift or crack the block,as the head expands.


however ive used them and had no probs...but im long studding now with the t4

 

My mate Steve as ran stud and nut for 5 years know, done loads of trackdays and 80K in that time, on the same head gasket running a good Stage 3 set up on a T34 with no issues.

 

I actually dont know where this comes from, i have used them in many engines over the time now, so have my friends, an NO ONE has broken a block.
The arp`s are only shit if you dont mount the studs correctly, and that is if you dont clean the holes in the block and if you tighten the studs to hard down in the block, otherwise NO WAY!

First clean the threads with a thread cutter
Then put the studs in by hand, and ONLY tighten by hand
I use a normal tightning sequence 1-10
40nm
80nm
110nm
Then heat engine up to normal temperatures
Let engine cool down(till next day or so)
Then losen one bolt 45` and re tighten to 110
This is because of the headgasket and top has adapted to the pressure of the bolts and kompression, so it has to be re-tightened to match everything up again.
ALWAYS remember this cause the bolts dont stretch