is this possible while still running standard management

if so, how ??

cheers

Scott

 

Yeah - just tap a switch onto the amal valve positive wire, then wind the boost on the actuator to the top you want

 

As above... You can get a kit from Stu (MSD) if your unsre on how to set it up right

 

will this not cause it to run rich or lean ??

 

no it will work ok had this done on mine now got to wire it all in again as got to change loom

 

or go to power engineering and get them to rip you off Ł100 to do it for you ,

 

No, the beauty of the MFi RST engine (as in your escort) is that your metering head sorts it's self out as far as air/fuel ratios are concerned....

If you had an FRST and added zorst and filter you'd get nothing untill you chipped it, but add a zorst and fitler to your rst and it immediately runs more air in and more air out thus creating power. Reason is you increse the air in the metering flap opens more to compensate with fuel.

So by upping the boost it runs more fuel, lowering boost it runs less fuel.

Switching between the two is not a problem

 

what sort of power are you guys running that have it done as mine is 200 ish at a guess so i dont wanna melt anything

cheers for the info lads

Scott

 

cheers thrush, should have waited before i posted again

 

One thing I don't know how to do with the switchabvle boost is preset the levels for high and low... What I do know tho is high will be whatever your current is, so if you have 17psi now, then high will still be 17psi, and low will probably be half that, might be 10 or similar...

Hence why I mentioned STU@MSD's kits as they are complete set ups ready to install

 

i wanna set it really low on the low one cause im a tight student and dont wanna use too much fuel

just as long as it wont runi my engine in the mean time

 

The amal valve works as a fail safe - i.e. if it loses power (or you switch it off) then it will drop your boost. So it won't increase your boost/power by just putting a switch in, unless you choose to turn the boost up on the rod or seperate bleed valve. Will just give you high/low boost control.

 

I would go for 10psi as your low then as that should see you with 150(ish)bhp if you have a good engine spec Quicker than std but not a chronic drinker

 

Doh - Beat to it by Thrush What he said anyway

 

mine used to be about 7 psi low 20psi high just took a while to set bar up on actuator

 

so i can put a switch in connected to the positive on the amal valve and use the switch to control from low to high ?

 

Ask Stu

 

 

do you need to set the limits of the low and high or does the amal valve automatically cut it to a certain level, also any idea if it is in proportion to the amount of boost your running as in if your running 20psi and with the switch its 7, would 18psi be 5psi ?

questions, question, questions

cheers again lads

Scott

 

Yeah, you use the switch to break the power to the amal valve. This fools the amal valve into thinking that the ecu has found a problem such as too higher boost temp and switches the amal valve to not bleed any air off (as it does in normal conditions all the time anyway). On standard boost setting of 7.5psi i think low boost is about 2psi as this is what was considered as a safe 'limp home' level boost. As you wind the actuator rod, this will obviously increase along with your high boost setting.

As mentioned before the system is a failsafe so by only putting a switch in you can only turn the boost downwards, and it won't effect the ecu's safety mechanism on high boost either (as the switch will not be seen by the system)

 

if thats the case then why doesnt everyone do this as surely its gonna save a wad in petrol when cruising down the motorway to and from shows and when you wanna blat it about you just hit the switch

Scott

 

I was deffo gonna do it, but as far as what you said above, if your cruising down the motorway etc then just learn to drive off boost and you'll only use the same ammount of pertol as a regular CVH engine

 

TBH Scott, never did it on my cause i always wanted peak boost (as mine was not a daily driver) so no need. But enless you've wound the boost up above 10psi or so you really ain't gonna need to switch it to low.

 

As Thrush says - once your at cruising speed on the motorway you will not use any different amount of petrol either on high or low boost as you won't (or shouldn't be on boost then). But if you wanna accelerate quick then you want as much power as necessary so you run high boost.

As mentioned before only benefit of having switchable boost like this is for driving like around town where you don't want the boost to come in high and end up in someones boot.

 

its running 18psi, nms setup through a standard turbo and still going strong

its only recetntly ive been using it for work but still would like the option as i tend to go to a few meets lately and its stinging my student wallet something chronic

Scott

 

Switchable boost ain't gunna stop this! It just how you drive it chap. Cane it and it will cost ya, don't and it will still cost ya shit loads (but not quite as much).

Probably worth while doing it though as it will stop unnessary high boost on your turbo and engine when you don't want it.

 

cant cost me anymore running on low boost can it can only save

now i sound like a proper tight bastard

 

Yeah but only because it stops you getting full (potential) power at full throttle cry:

I reckon with 18psi it is worthwhile for the sake of an hour or so work and a bit of wire and a switch.