heater matrix/rad .........???
I bought one 2 years ago from local motor factors for Ł28. Went to get another one recently for different sierra, Ł70!!!!!!!
Not as much supply they said or some rubbish like that, so prices have more than doubled.
It's ok cos really didn't fancy doing it anyway, did my last one and was a nightmare and garage want's Ł300 for it as it's a 6 hour job.
Gonna be a cold winter for me tho....
Not as much supply they said or some rubbish like that, so prices have more than doubled.
It's ok cos really didn't fancy doing it anyway, did my last one and was a nightmare and garage want's Ł300 for it as it's a 6 hour job.
Gonna be a cold winter for me tho....
actually... i was considering something to make it easier and someone on here might know if it's feasible.
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
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Originally Posted by geoffxr4
actually... i was considering something to make it easier and someone on here might know if it's feasible.
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
remove both lower parts of the dash
you can then see the bits of plastic you need to get to and also see the 2 13mm bolts you need to undo to move the hwole heater box
inside the engine bay there are 2 pipes and 2 small philips screws you need to undo first
these can be more of a problem than the internals
lots of people have said you can just remove one side and pull it out and bend it past the pedals etc, but it's much easier to just do it properly and not risk bending the shit out of the new matrix you are putting in
and it's less pain in your back
hi pete
i changed mine in the summer it took me ages to do it but one good thing i did once thetop and bottom dash was completely out
i tidy up the car loom /alarm loom /immobilser loom /the spa gauges loom
got plenty of room now for more wires if needed ..lol..
marco
i changed mine in the summer it took me ages to do it but one good thing i did once thetop and bottom dash was completely out
i tidy up the car loom /alarm loom /immobilser loom /the spa gauges loom
got plenty of room now for more wires if needed ..lol..
marco
Originally Posted by dojj
Originally Posted by geoffxr4
actually... i was considering something to make it easier and someone on here might know if it's feasible.
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
They main reason it' so difficult to change a heater matrix is because the pipes coming out of the matrix go thru a 90 turn to pass thru the bulkhead. I was considering cutting these pipes back before the turn and putting flexible rubber 90 degree sleeves on to pass thru the bulk head then connecting the main engine bay water pipe to the heater pipe via a small copper pipe inserted(i did this b4 to by pass my heater when it leaked or something).
Anyway, any thought on this...?
remove both lower parts of the dash
you can then see the bits of plastic you need to get to and also see the 2 13mm bolts you need to undo to move the hwole heater box
inside the engine bay there are 2 pipes and 2 small philips screws you need to undo first
these can be more of a problem than the internals
lots of people have said you can just remove one side and pull it out and bend it past the pedals etc, but it's much easier to just do it properly and not risk bending the shit out of the new matrix you are putting in
and it's less pain in your back

they are the same across the sierra range but some tend to be metal ended rather than plastic capped, in my expereience, these normally klast about a year before they spit out their dummy's, especially on something that will be running hotter than your average sierra for a lot longer period of time, why couldn't they have made it easy like on the cortina's, you could have changed it with a key
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Sep 24, 2015 06:19 PM







