right changed the leads timing belt rotar arm disturbuter cap sarted the car up and itsw still backfiring like fuck its onlt doing it when the turbo comes on the dumpvalve seems to be opening when i give it thottle could the dumpvalve be fucked on it or the turbo

 

What you boost you running again?

The primiary piston will open when you rev the engine, you got a Bailey DV26?

 

check the timeing or dissy when did you last change the fuel fillter?

 

i think so its standard boost it is a bailey could the timing be 180 degress out


you think the turbos ok i noticed ive got a cracked rasdiator hose but theres no reek out the back of it just bang bang

 

How much boost do you consider standard to be. Is there a gauge in the car

If your timing was 180 degrees out you would know about it mate!

 

her father thinks it is its backfiring when you come on full boost its running .5 bar boost could the dumper be fucked its opening when you rev it up but its not moving ih and whoever done the ht lead last put them on 1243 on the cap

 

take the dump vavle off and try it surely thats the easiest way

 

Thats why i was asking the boost it runs. Have you got a gauge in the car or is 0.5 bar what youve been told.

I doubt its the dump valve, the primary piston closes back up as soon as you start boosting cos theres no vacuum.

Who the fuck put them on, they need a slap Is the wiring connector on the dizzy on the top?

 

the wiring is on the dizzy at the top the boost gauge in the car says .5 bar boost on full boost i was thinking of taking the dumper off cause its shit i never put it on

 

Try it, i doubt very much its that but you've got nothing to lose.

When it back fires, does the rev counter go mental?

 

no its just like normal

 

Well that rules out the boost limiter and ignition system in general, if you had the fault as a result of loss of ignition the rev counter would be dropping to 0 until the missfire/backfire has cleared.

Try checking the timing as Alex suggested

 

double checked the rev counter all is good took the dumper of and was still doing just nipped in for dinner then where going to redo the timing and see what happens just hope i can get it sorted walking everyway is crap could it be a sticking valve?

 

Could be a number of things

When you do the timing remember to disconnect the pipe from the ignition ECU amd block it up so theres no air leaking

 

When you do the timing remember to disconnect the pipe from the ignition ECU amd block it up so theres no air leaking?????

 

 

well its still doing the distubutor seems a bit suspect on it tho it was clicking away for no reason so im going to get a new one and try that lets hope this sorts it

 

If its the distributor cutting the ignition out the rev counter WILL be doing some crazy stuff, end of story.

The cap/rotor arm could affect it, but you say you've changed them yea?

And as for the timing, the silver ecu behind the heater box, theres a small vacuum pipe running to it

 

You havent mentioned the spark plugs.... Worth checking / replacing them

 

right the disstrbutor was shagged got a new one it starts alot better even has the shroud on it its still backfiring but not as much checked the sparkplugs there like new one was a bit dirty so replaced it in cylinsder 3 im now leaning towards a sticking valve in cylinder 3.

thats the timing belt changed set up new dizzy, rotor, leads, disturbuter, got a coil to try on it tomorrow just hope that sorts it the manifold is still glowing red tho

 

so do you diconnect it from the ecu and why do you do that

 

The dizzy wasn't at fault if its still back firing!

You need to disconnect the vacuum pipe to stop the ECU from altering the timing, disconnecting the vacuum pipe means you can set up the Timing without out any alterations.

This is the same on carbeurettor cars, the dizzy's on them have vacuum advance

 

ok will do went to start it to move it out the way and there was a clickingsound coming from the distrubutor area any ideas

 

Thats probably the amal valve mate

 

Either that or the time bomb

 

Yeah all rs turbos come standard with both amal valve to control boost and a built in timebomb to control your wallet

 

so where is the amal valve and what is it

 

amal valve sits on the top of the gearbox just under dizzy, with 3 pipes one from turbo and one going to actuator, it controls boost, should click when you turn on ignition.

Sounds like You really need to get it too a rolling road, you could be changing things forever and never get anywhere, could be something as daft as the gasket at the throttle body, but would be best to take it to someone decent to have it checked out, may work out cheaper in the end rather than just changing random parts.
Jay

 

ok so wheres the best place to go im close to kilmarnock

 

swap the dizzy mat be th wires in it breaking down iv had it twice then time it up

 

and bin that clear dizzy cap

 

could be the ecu

 

its got an original dizzy now and new leads and that too like i say its only poping when its under full load and when i stop it there a pop out of it

 

As i said above if its an ignition cut/fault the rev counter will be going spastic.

 

i think illl get it to ava in glasgow for a fix there

 

Would probably be the best thing you've done mate, sounds like its got a few issues

It can be expensive learning.........i learn't the expensive way for a while

 

yeah before it goes iim going to check the valves and springs cause number 3 cylinder plug is a bit dirty

 

What sort of dirt

 

not dirt as such but the plug was black

 

Ahhhhhhhhhh................

Your metering head might be fucked.......when i first dropped the engine in the cabby i picked the knackered metering head out of the 2 i had, it was overfuelling its tits off on one cylinder, it drove fine but you only had to dab the throttle and it back fired, it was obscene when you drove it LOL i was pissin myself