I recently had a good metering head put on me car and had the fuel setup to be constantly just richer than lambda one so my fueling seems to fine.
the problem seems to appear when giving the full throttle through the gears- i get 5.5k out 1st, 5.5k outta 2nd then 3rd won't pull past 5k
when i say it won't pull its just boggs so i change to 4th and it does the same(bogs) unless i lay off for a bit then it'll pull happily
any ideas or suggestions?

 

Not over boosting is it ??

 

You don't want it richer than Lambda 1 when on boost. Who set it up?

 

knackered fuel pump?

 

what cam you running?

 

its on a fresh rebuild (10k ago) and is really smooth altough i bought the car after the rebuild i've bin told its running the standard cam.
she sometimes a bit rough when coould could this be a sign of a fuel pump on the way out?
i've set the boost to 10psi and it doesn't go above that, it was originally setup at 10psi(chipped etc) and rr'd and as i've said the fueling dosn't seem to drop off

lambda one is 14% or something and it holds 11/12% on a full throttle run, its my mate that set it up as he has a closed loop lambda to take the readings

 

Lamda 1 is far too LEAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lambda isn't easily related to CO.

If she's near lamba one on boost, there's ur problem! carry on, and u'll melt something

Aim for Lambda 0.8 at the leanest.

 

11/12 is roughly 0.78/0.85 off lambda 1 and it holds below 11 once on boost
my mate who set it up has read up on it so i'm sure the fueling is ok

 

Which is still pretty lean...

But you obviously know what you are doing. So crack on

 

What the fuck are you lot talking about? its like reading german in here



(nothing against any Germans ofcourse )

 

just for ref its was about 16 b4 he set it up so hows that sound
i didn't say i did know but i'm assured the fueling is ok so leaving that alone would be nice seeing as i've said that from the start
have u got nothing better to do
or maybe even something constructive to help my problem?

edit- wot sorta reading has ur car got tony?

 

Take it to jamsport or alike place not some mate who can set it up as thats bollocks..Get the pros to set it up who know what they are doing..

 

he knows wot hes doing and has built, setup and installed many engines and never had one blow up on him or fail etc but hes not sure why its holding back hence me posing the question on here
Does the problem point to a fueling issue is that why ur all jumping on me saying a mate did the setup etc?

 

sounds very much like retarded igntion to me. Check connections to knock sensor, and make sure it is screwed in tight.

 

I was only trying to help you, but yes I do have better things to do.

 

ok, will do i wondered about this but i was also told the knock sensor doesn't tend to detect anything at high revs.

tony- wots ur running then as ur so quick to point out 11 is too lean?
telling me its lean is hardly helping without more detail, i havn't got money to be taking it to tuners so i'm trying to make do

 

oi!, my ability to rev still rivals a diesel car!

 

knock sensor cause problems anywhere. If you're in the 11's, then fuelling is not your problem.

 

i apreciate that rick, could it be me charge air temps?
just wondering as i'm running a standard cooler and it seems to rev past 5k once i back of for a bit
only 10 psi but it does seem to run quite hot.

ps- i checked me knock sensor it seems to be secured tightly.

 

u have to describe the problem in more detail. When does it happen exacty? First time you put ur foot down? Always? Sometimes? Gear...

 

it seems to once the engine is warmed up and i've bin boosting a fair bit in 1st+ 2nd and then it'll bog in 3rd and 4th at high rpm, if i ease off for a bit then accelerate again it picks up and goes like normal- almost like it needs to cool down maybe??

 

if u lift off for a fraction of a second?

 

nah, not a fraction of a second i have to ease off for a second or two tbh

 

ok ,well it's not a heat issue. Temperatures actually increase for a short period after you have come off throttle. It's not the fulling either, as you say you are in the 11's. It is defo a timing issue, and i would still say it's a knock strategy related issue.

You need to go over the engine loom and make sure everything is spot on. I have seen a lot of knock sensor plugs where bare wire can be seen where it goes into the plug, and they short out against each other. Try unscrewing the knock sensor, and wrapping it with cloth, and then tucking it in the heater box. This sometimes has an effect and cures the problem, but often makes it worse too.

The ecu for some reason becomes very sensitive to knock inputs, and retards the ignition for fun. It may be that you need another ECU - if you can borrow one off a mate local then defo try this.

 

thanks alot rick that gives me a few things i can try
seems to be cutting even earlier now- 4.5k etc so i think it maybe getting worse which is quite annoying- nice to know u think its not heat related though

 

It could also be something simple like the plugs/leads braking down. For the price, it's always a good idea to goto ford and buy a set of plugs, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap.

 

i replaced the plugs as it was my first thought- i've bought a new cap, rotor and set of leads so the'll be going on 2moro- gotta be done b4 i fiddle with more serious stuff

 

i know i am new on here but i was having simlar trouble and my actuater was a big one lowest it would turn down two was 12 psi so i got told the chip was wrong so i got hold of an ecu with a bigger chip and mine runs sweet as a nut at 12 psi pulls great hope this may help

 

bingo!
its the knock sensor, i unplugged it and wrapped it in cloth and tucked it away like u said- it now revs above 5k and seems to pull better
i plugged it back in for now- could leaving it unplugged lead to problems such as det???

 

Hmmm worth a go on mine, where's the knock sensor

 

Told you

If you unplug the connector, it will prob won't run well. If it's plugged in, but the knock sensor not screwed into the engine, that's fine.

Big AL
The knock sensor is located on the right side of the inlet manifold, it;s the green plug.

 

when u say not screwed into the engine do u mean the whole green connector portion- (male/female connector i've unplugged, not unscrewed but with positive results??)
or the other end of the connector that i've yet to fidlle with as i havn't traced the connector.
i appreciate the help thus far alot thanks

ps- i noticed it ran badly just disconnecting/unplugging hence plugging it back in

 

If you want a new one Burtons sell new knock sensors but there £49.95 + p+p

 

hmmmmmmm, and if i disconnect it then thats £5O+ saved or will that mean

 

If thats defo the problem then if i was you i'd spend the £50 then at least then you know it's all spot on

 

Cheers Rick

 

chunt69

Disconect the plug. Then unscrew the sensor. Then Connect it back up. Then wrap the lot, and tuck away.

Just disconnecting it will make it run shit for certain..

 

any ideas for blocking the gap once its unscrewed?
i want too tbh
Thanks alot for the help rick, much appreciated btw, i'm just worried if i disconnect it i may get other issues