Wonder if anyone has had the same problem, The car starts fine from cold and idle's fine for a few minutes until it warms up, It drives fine but the idle speed drops when pulling upto junctions etc and cuts out, Plugs leads have been changed, Just wondering if anyone has had a simular problem, I think it's a sensor but not 100% sure, any info would be usefull.

Cheers

 

idling speed valve looks like a silver tube could be located on airbox or on the left side of the inlet manifold as you look from above. Try cleaning that with intake cleaner or if that dont work get your CO check out

 

Try cleaning out all your breather pipes, upping your idle speed by using the adjuster screw, change your air filter.

 

Hi there
I was wondering whether you have found a solution to the idling problem you have had with your XR3I.
I have the exact same problem and its driving me mad trying to figure it out.
All the best
Chris

 

Ive had this problem and to some extent still have it.

To start with ive had the Anti Stall valve replaced as my old one wasnt working.

This valve counter acts your revs dropped rapidly ( like when pulling upto to a junction ) so the revs fall at a more gradule pace and dont cut or bottom out.

Ive also around the same time had some popping from the exhaust altho not anything totally major , usually on the overrun after giving it some revs. Tried presure testing the exhaust and not found any air leaks , and the engine was set up fine , was surgested it could be an air leak on the master brake cylinder , altho as a cure ( temporarily maybe ) ive turned my idle speed up to compensate , to be honnest the problem hasnt gotten any worse over the last 6 mths + so im quiet happy to run like this , the idle speed is set at 800-1000 rpm ( ideal is 850-950 i belive ) when warmed up which is only fractionally higher than normal so no major concearns

Hope some of my rambeling helps ! ... turn up your idle speed

 

Try adjusting your CO to 2-2.5%, this will solve your problems, and make it much much nicer to drive.
tabetha

 

If your 3i is the EFI version.TRY THIS:
Dissconnect the black earth cable from the battery.(remembering radio codes first).Leave it for about 45mins.Then reconnect the battery and go for a drive.Your (ECU)engine control unit has forgotten what to do, so you have to tell it.The ECU is self learning.For the first 5 miles it will record how you drive.If you drive nice and gentle it will store the information and that will be how it performs from then on.
If you drive it like you stole it then it will record how you are driving and expect to be driven like that all the time.
My 89 xr3i is faster in every way compared to my mates mk4 RS Turbo.
The idle is not smooth,But the performance is great and it doesn't drink anymore fuel than normal.
Paul

 

surely that does your car no good though, to drive it hard to make the ECU to adjust??

 

sounds like a plan, i trying to blow up my old engine, could be the best way

 

Hi mate iv just done a 2.0L conversion in my Escort mk5 xr3i and I had the same problem. Its because your car is taking in to much air! Its weird cause mine runs excellent now on the standard ECU with my air-flow disconnected. I reckon that advice you got about the battery may b spot on as I done this and it worked. My m8 told me 2 do it and im now air-flowless it can b a bit flat 1st thing but when you get goin its nippy n reacts quite quick.

Darron

 

We have just had the exact same problems just days ago with my mums escort cab. we tried everything even taking the air flow meter to pieces and cleaning everything. we have now ended up just swapping it to carb. no problems now.