in the process of fitting a new block and im struggling to remove the block with sump attached


subframe is loose gearbox is off and drive shafts etc but its sooooo tight

is it best to remove sump??

help please

 

drop the engine out underneath with the suspension / crossmember / rack / etc (including gearbox next time) complete and split when out of car

 

gonna put it back together and do this mate cheers

 

radiant red
Didn't you just buy a coss, don't says its popped already?

 

oh yeah 200 mile and the block cracked

 

what a treat , and you havent parked it in the sellers front room?

 

the diff won't come out past the crossmember

dropping it down the bottom is the easiest way without stripping the whole lot down

 

yeah tell me about it mate

i bought the car in a healthy state and i know this due to the 70 mile test drive just bad luck but then at laest i can build it well and good from day one

 

this is very correct mate,you live and learn

 

that was ANOTHER 4 days i wasted

engine will come out the top
no
turbo's off it'll come out the top
nope
heads off and just bare block will let it come out the otp
don't think so
gearbox out will mean no reason to swing it backwards
you still ain't getting it are you
lets take the front diff off
again, not gonna happen
there is only the crossmember left
but then you might as well have just unbolted that in the first place and left everything on top to come down in one go you silly twat
oh yeah

at one point i threw every single tool i could get my hands on at the wall and went to get a gallon of petrol
it was the walking back that calmed me down

 

fook knows why i didnt just simply look at tjhe job and say "thats easier from below"

 

well the engines out and stripped

i have a cracked block so i have sourced a standard bore 2222 205 block for £50 inc a set of +1mm brand new rings which i think is a bargain

dropped it off at engineers shop couple of days ago.....

they have rebored for my 1mm oversize pistons
skimmed the top of the block
fit my rings
skimmed flywheel
reground crank
supplied and fitted new shells
assembled the whole thing using my arp bolts for £220

so yeah it was a twat my engine has gone pop after owning 200 miles but at least i have basically a recon bottom end with all new gaskets inc cometic for around £400 which is hopefully gonna give me a few thousand miles of fun before the bloody thing breaks again

 

just remember when you post up "why don't my engine fit in the engine bay" that you have to put it in from underneath

well done for getting it sorted in such a short time

 

ha ha yeah ill bear that in mind mate


i want her back on road only covered a few hundred miles

 

you may want to make your sig line a bit more witty then

how long before it's back together and running again?
and if you've got a cracked block, will you be able to use anything from the inside, pistons and crank or is that from scratch too?

 

ok then ill update it

pistons are like new as there 5k old but fitting new rings for good mesure,rods and crank are fine apart from light scoring.crack was tiny ill post a pic

 

 

shouldn't be doing things like that should it?
how many miles did it do then?
bloacks don't break usually, it's the rest of the stuff that goes first

 

i agree mate must of been a poor cast?

or the 34 psi through the t38 isnt gonna help matters much but at least it goes to show the pistons etc are strong if they hold out longer than the block.
was built in jan covered around 5k and its 1mm overbored