4x4 gearbox removal......

remove keys from ignition and place on sunroof.


handbrake off.


car in neutral.


disconect earth from battery.


remove turbo heatsheild and undo turbo/exhaust bolts.


totally remove exhaust (it will get in your way ).


remove heatsheilding from under the car.


remove clutch cable from its housing by pulling the cable towards the rear of the car.


using air tools undo the 4 bolts that hold the front antiroll bar to chassis.


then the 2 bolts that secure the centre part of the diff to the car.


then remove 4 bolts securing the propshaft to the rear diff.


then the 3 bolts that secure the prop to the gearbox.


remove prop shaft.


drain the oil from the first drain plug on the side of the gearbox.


remove 4 bolts securing the cradle under the gearbox.


remove centre bolt of cradle.


gearbox will now drop down at the back.


drain transfer box oil from plug where the cradle was.


remove the 4 bolts that secure the gearlever bracket to the gearbox (2 different types of bolts


remember the right way round) remove the connector pin and clip from the selector, this sits right on top of the gearbox and can be levered off with a small flat ended screwdriver.

remove the bolts securing the starter motor the top one needs a long extension bar and go in


from the front of the engine , there is also one on the other side of the engine that you have to do from the front as well.


remove lower gear box securing bolts.


to remove the top gearbox bolts you need a long extension bar on the passenger side but drivers side you need a multi angle adaptor on the socket (it helps).


now the hard bit actually taking the box out, there is a lever point at the bottom of thegearbox. as you split the box from the engine, it will need to be pushed up from underneath and pulled out at the smae time (deffo a 2 person job unless you can support the box).


dont worry about the front prop as it will just fall out as you pull the gearbox out.


check the rubber bit under the gear lever/ linkage, replace if perished there are 4 long rubber lugs that stick out , user a pair of pliers and pull the lugs through.



and now the refitting of the new one......

just follow the steps above in reverse ....

when it comes to aligning the front prop and the splines that go into the engine get a mate to help its not an easy job to do it on your own the hard part is getting them both in at the same time.

start by refitting the bolts that go through the big engine securing holes one is above the starter motor (earth strap goes there) this way as your friend supports the box you can bolt it up and pull it together.

the gear linkage selector is a bitch when you get the pin and clip into place gently lift the linkage bar up and press down with the clip , if you get it first time i will be impressed , its just a case of wiggling it around a bit.. it will push in with no real force but make sure you have got the linkage into the box.

thats about it really, not difficult, just physical.......
whizzzzy gun is recomended to do the diff bolts back up.

 

you will need mt75 specific gearbox oil .. i was told 2.7 ltrs

 

Thanks for sharing that

 

Nice one pete ! That may come in handy one of these days !!! How does the new box feel now ?

 

loads better... oh also forgot ...

disconect the reverse light switch
do it after removing the heat sheilding from under the car

hope it is of some use...

 

 

no, 1.3 litres of mt75 oil in the gearbox and 0.5 litres of dexron 3 in the transfer box.