diff hanger?
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AS title
Im replacing my shocks and springs and fitting polys and would like some views on an upreated diff hanger!!
is it worth buying one??
how much?
who sells them??
Im replacing my shocks and springs and fitting polys and would like some views on an upreated diff hanger!!
is it worth buying one??
how much?
who sells them??
Fitted one to mine over the winter
Tightens rear beam alot,not tryed the quarter mile yet but supposed to make a difference
Available from Mike Rainbird on here
Bit more diff noise/vibration is only downside

Tightens rear beam alot,not tryed the quarter mile yet but supposed to make a difference
Available from Mike Rainbird on here
Bit more diff noise/vibration is only downside

aka Turbosailorboy
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From: Under the water.... .......in a nuclear submarine
Originally Posted by CosKev3
Fitted one to mine over the winter
Tightens rear beam alot,not tryed the quarter mile yet but supposed to make a difference
Available from Mike Rainbird on here
Bit more diff noise/vibration is only downside


Tightens rear beam alot,not tryed the quarter mile yet but supposed to make a difference
Available from Mike Rainbird on here
Bit more diff noise/vibration is only downside


Originally Posted by B9KOS
Looks proper bufty Kev


Originally Posted by moonstone mike
Great stuff....any idea on price?????
Bought mine from america,cost me Ł100
This country sucks
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Originally Posted by CosKev3
Tightens rear beam alot,not tryed the quarter mile yet but supposed to make a difference
Going on that and the fact that they are quite a cheap upgrade (in cossie terms of cheap lol) i'd say yes...worth getting and i'll be getting one for mine as my standard jobby is about fooked.
Yes worth getting, pulls the diff up tight, less sagging and wobble, only marginal increase in road noise. BUY ONE! I have heard there is also a solid mount available from the manufacturers if you have solid beam mounts too. Mc2 Racing in the USA, I imported one also but sold it on for a custom solid one before getting to fit it, wouldnt hesitate if thinking of buying again. R+B and GGR have them if you dont want hassle and wait of import.
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I noticed on that website also a solid diff mount. Tough it requires solid beam mounts. That means a rosejointed rear beam?
If so, I don't have budget for that anyway. So that polybushed one looks like it'll do a fine job.
Which one would be better/stiffer: this new style one or a ( second hand) 909 motorsport group N one?
cheers
If so, I don't have budget for that anyway. So that polybushed one looks like it'll do a fine job.
Which one would be better/stiffer: this new style one or a ( second hand) 909 motorsport group N one?
cheers
Originally Posted by rinus_2005
I noticed on that website also a solid diff mount. Tough it requires solid beam mounts. That means a rosejointed rear beam?
If so, I don't have budget for that anyway. So that polybushed one looks like it'll do a fine job.
Which one would be better/stiffer: this new style one or a ( second hand) 909 motorsport group N one?
cheers
If so, I don't have budget for that anyway. So that polybushed one looks like it'll do a fine job.
Which one would be better/stiffer: this new style one or a ( second hand) 909 motorsport group N one?
cheers
Not sure how much luck you would have finding a groupN/A mount
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It'll be for a trackdaycar, so the stiffer the better.
Actually atmo the rear is fully polybushed (besides diff hanger)
Got myself a set of toe-in shims of R&B. And got 2 camber adjusting shims fabricated by a m8 of mine to reduce camber to -1 (is now -2, and -1 is recommend for trackuse?)
These still however need to be fitted soon before next trackday.
Besides the above geometry alterations, I'd like to stiffen up the rear some more. When pulling out of corners i can feel the rear swing/wobble/sway/ or however i should discribe it
So adding a solid diff mount would improve stability in the rear end?
Anyone selling the solid kits (including solid mounts) in the uk?
About those solid mounts, there the same as all my powerflex but then out of steel/alu? pics anyone?
lol, too many questions perhaps, but for a newbee in the cos scene all hints/help are greatly appricated
ps. my english isn't that good, so maybe i misunderstand. The beam mounts, they mean all the mounts on the rear beam? or some part of the rear beam?
Actually atmo the rear is fully polybushed (besides diff hanger)
Got myself a set of toe-in shims of R&B. And got 2 camber adjusting shims fabricated by a m8 of mine to reduce camber to -1 (is now -2, and -1 is recommend for trackuse?)
These still however need to be fitted soon before next trackday.
Besides the above geometry alterations, I'd like to stiffen up the rear some more. When pulling out of corners i can feel the rear swing/wobble/sway/ or however i should discribe it
So adding a solid diff mount would improve stability in the rear end?
Anyone selling the solid kits (including solid mounts) in the uk?
About those solid mounts, there the same as all my powerflex but then out of steel/alu? pics anyone?
lol, too many questions perhaps, but for a newbee in the cos scene all hints/help are greatly appricated

ps. my english isn't that good, so maybe i misunderstand. The beam mounts, they mean all the mounts on the rear beam? or some part of the rear beam?
The solid mounts are made out of alloy and fit into the beam the same way as standard/poly bushes fit
E-mail/ring Mike at R&B and ask him about the solid diff mount,he stocks the poly version so would think he could get a solid one for you
The poly one is very stiff though,hardly any movement at all
E-mail/ring Mike at R&B and ask him about the solid diff mount,he stocks the poly version so would think he could get a solid one for you
The poly one is very stiff though,hardly any movement at all
OK the rear beam is mounted by a rear diff mount and the two donuts at the outer edges, these 3 points must all be the same spec, all3 poly or all 3 solid. Marco has sold solid beam mounts, JC motorsport and A1 RallySport too I believe, get these if you go solid diff mount. I would for track use
Ask Mike at R+B while you are at it, Im sure he can sort you out a proper set up
Ask Mike at R+B while you are at it, Im sure he can sort you out a proper set up
I am the one that engineered the mc˛racing aluminum & polyurethane diff mount.
The diff mount is a tremendously important mount to upgrade, and it is often overlooked. On our autocross Merkur XR4Ti, we were having a lot of trouble with rear suspension deflections - which in our case was on the order of inches. We minimized this problem by installing a Group N (909) diff mount, and I have been a HUGE fan of the Group N diff mount ever since. Last year I wanted to pickup a second Group N diff mount, but when I went to order one from GGR I discovered that Ford had discontinued them! To the drawing board I went.
Now, I modeled the aluminum & polyurethane diff mount after the Group N diff mount. The critical dimensions are 100% identical, and the effective stiffness and NVH are identical. I went through several test bushings with a variety of different durometers and tolerances before selecting the one that is currently in production. I can say based on first-hand experience that you can not tell the difference between a vehicle equipped with a Group N diff mount and one of our diff mounts, which means that I accomplished my goal.
Of course, our diff mount has many advantages over the Group N diff mount since I don't have any bean counters watching over my shoulders like the Ford engineers do. Our mount is about half the weight, yet is quite beefy. Our mount is also cheaper. I paid $180 (Ł97.3 today) for my Group N diff mount 5 years ago, yet I sell our diff mount for $160 (Ł86.5 today). Finally, you can replace the bushings. When the Group N diff mount goes bad, it's bad forever. When our mount goes bad, you just stick in two fresh bushing "halves", which cost about $25 (Ł13.5 today) total.
We do have the solid diff mounts available also, but those are for cars that do not see street duty at all. If you ever drive your car on the street, use a polyurethane diff mount. If you never drive your car on the street, use a solid diff mount. It's that simple, and there are no exceptions.
I just finished up a design last week for a weld-in plate and sleeve kit to allow the rear beam to be solid-mounted for a much lower cost than using alloy beam mount bushings. The kit includes two upper circular weld plates, two lower circular weld plates, and two stepped center sleeves. The material is 4130, which is very strong and easy to weld. This is a better solution than alloy beam mounts, as it is cheaper and stronger. Alas, it is not a reversible modification.
We do manufacture alloy beam mount bushings upon request - I keep material on hand at all times so that I can make them in a hurry - but they are not cheap. We use a billet design that does not use any of those retarded spacer rings, so there is gobs of machine work involved. They do go in nice though, and of course this modification is reversible.
Pretty much everything people have said in this thread has been sensible. Good job guys!
Grayson
www.mc2racing.com
The diff mount is a tremendously important mount to upgrade, and it is often overlooked. On our autocross Merkur XR4Ti, we were having a lot of trouble with rear suspension deflections - which in our case was on the order of inches. We minimized this problem by installing a Group N (909) diff mount, and I have been a HUGE fan of the Group N diff mount ever since. Last year I wanted to pickup a second Group N diff mount, but when I went to order one from GGR I discovered that Ford had discontinued them! To the drawing board I went.
Now, I modeled the aluminum & polyurethane diff mount after the Group N diff mount. The critical dimensions are 100% identical, and the effective stiffness and NVH are identical. I went through several test bushings with a variety of different durometers and tolerances before selecting the one that is currently in production. I can say based on first-hand experience that you can not tell the difference between a vehicle equipped with a Group N diff mount and one of our diff mounts, which means that I accomplished my goal.
Of course, our diff mount has many advantages over the Group N diff mount since I don't have any bean counters watching over my shoulders like the Ford engineers do. Our mount is about half the weight, yet is quite beefy. Our mount is also cheaper. I paid $180 (Ł97.3 today) for my Group N diff mount 5 years ago, yet I sell our diff mount for $160 (Ł86.5 today). Finally, you can replace the bushings. When the Group N diff mount goes bad, it's bad forever. When our mount goes bad, you just stick in two fresh bushing "halves", which cost about $25 (Ł13.5 today) total.
We do have the solid diff mounts available also, but those are for cars that do not see street duty at all. If you ever drive your car on the street, use a polyurethane diff mount. If you never drive your car on the street, use a solid diff mount. It's that simple, and there are no exceptions.
I just finished up a design last week for a weld-in plate and sleeve kit to allow the rear beam to be solid-mounted for a much lower cost than using alloy beam mount bushings. The kit includes two upper circular weld plates, two lower circular weld plates, and two stepped center sleeves. The material is 4130, which is very strong and easy to weld. This is a better solution than alloy beam mounts, as it is cheaper and stronger. Alas, it is not a reversible modification.
We do manufacture alloy beam mount bushings upon request - I keep material on hand at all times so that I can make them in a hurry - but they are not cheap. We use a billet design that does not use any of those retarded spacer rings, so there is gobs of machine work involved. They do go in nice though, and of course this modification is reversible.
Pretty much everything people have said in this thread has been sensible. Good job guys!
Grayson
www.mc2racing.com
By the way, for those of you that were waiting for the latest batch of polyurethane diff mounts to be made, they're finally ready. The anodizer finally nailed the exact light blue color that I wanted this time around, so I'm pretty excited. I was out of stock for about 2 months since you guys drained my inventory so unexpectedly. We should be good for the rest of the summer at this point.
Those weld-in solid beam mount plates & sleeves that I mentioned in the previous post are also ready, in case anyone cares.
Grayson
www.mc2racing.com
Those weld-in solid beam mount plates & sleeves that I mentioned in the previous post are also ready, in case anyone cares.
Grayson
www.mc2racing.com
so, just to clarify, yo wouldn't recomend using the solid mount on a road car BUT if we were to buy the poly one it CAN be made into a solid mount if we fit the metal where the poly is supposed to go yes?
any pics of the solid beam mounts? and when you say it is an unreversable mod, does this mean they'll be welded in as opposed to bolt in jobs?
cheers
any pics of the solid beam mounts? and when you say it is an unreversable mod, does this mean they'll be welded in as opposed to bolt in jobs?
cheers
so, just to clarify, yo wouldn't recomend using the solid mount on a road car BUT if we were to buy the poly one it CAN be made into a solid mount if we fit the metal where the poly is supposed to go yes?
any pics of the solid beam mounts? and when you say it is an unreversable mod, does this mean they'll be welded in as opposed to bolt in jobs?
http://www.mc2racing.com/products/xr...592/index.html
Grayson
www.mc2racing.com
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