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Radiant Red - Which products/how to clean

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Old May 4, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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Default Radiant Red - Which products/how to clean

The paint is solid non laquered 2pac, which i have applied myself, and shines well, even after ive not washed for a while. It's certainly not dull/pink.

I use the car everyday - in the winter i dont polish much, just wash - in warm weather - i like to spend time on it.

I have an 1800rpm buffer with compounding head. I used this with G3 to remove flatting marks. I also have a facela black foam head which is very soft, that ive used before with G10.

In my other thread i list what products i have - but don't mind getting more to make her shine

Many thanks ,Rick
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Old May 4, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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auto glym red is a good 1, or if u dont mind the hard work, take ure pick of waxes!!!!
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Old May 4, 2006 | 10:05 PM
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Clearkote vanilla moose glaze (which is a polish not a glaze), OR AG SRP, followed by Clearkote red moose machine glaze, followed by an optional sealant stage, followed by a finishing wax.

Good ones for red are Clearkote carnuba moose wax, P21s Concours wax and Harly wax.

Gareth
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Old May 5, 2006 | 09:02 AM
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Gaz7


You're a star, cheers

Also, what exactly is a Polish? I thought a polish was something with a fine cut, but it seems that some polish's dont have a a cut? So are they just a cleaner?

Rick
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Old May 5, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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True polishes have cut, some finer than others. You can always tell if a product has cut because it will powder.

There are some badged polishes like the Meguiars DC2 for example that are branded as polishes but have no cut.

Although to make things more confusing the Megs DC2 is actually a glaze.

There are products out there such as the Sonus P21 paint cleanser that are chemical cleaners that cleanse the paint withou any cut of the surface...


Hope this helps

Frayz
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Old May 5, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Is AG Super Resin ok to use with AG perfect polishing cloths?

I take it the super is what will get rid of the swirl marks i have.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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The SRP will make the car look better but to remove swirl the car needs to be machine polished, the polymers in the componds required to remove swirls cannot be broken down by hand over the area as large as a whole car.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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frayz

Ok, that brings me to my next question

I have a rotary pro buffer which i use for fresh paint that has been 1500 flatted, i use it with G3 then G10, a compounding headfor G3, then a soft black foam for the G10.

Can i use the buffer with SR, and what head would i need? Or, maybe the G10 would be suitable?

Many thanks, Rick
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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If youre confident with using the rotary then the G10 and 3 should be fine, you can use SRP by machine but id prefer to use it on an orbital after as the rotary tends to work the product much harder.

Will be interested to see your results

Frayz
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by frayz
If youre confident with using the rotary then the G10 and 3 should be fine, you can use SRP by machine but id prefer to use it on an orbital after as the rotary tends to work the product much harder.

Will be interested to see your results

Frayz
g3 and 10 fine for what lol. G10 will remove the light swirls? I shouldnt need g3 should i? Does SRP have more a cut than G10?

Rick.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:33 PM
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Here is the car after a wash. What areas would you say need working on?



Rick
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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Sorry Rick but pics like that are unable to show me anythin, cos they jsut dont show up on camera from that far away unfortunately.

To take photos of imperfections such as swirls you need to be in the direct sunlight approx 6 to 8 inche from the paint or use a xenon or luxeon torch.

It all depend on how bad your swirls are, always start with the lighter compond as you can always go harsher if required.

No SRP has less cut than G10.
Hope that helps

frayz
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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frayz

Ok, cheers mate

Somone else has been telling me that u should take pics of the reflections rather than the car
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Old May 5, 2006 | 10:47 PM
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In addition to the good advice given by Frayz...

True polishes have cut, 'pure' polishes have no cut. Cleaner polishes clean the paint without cut.

You can split proper polishes into three groups; abrasive (Poorboy's SSR1), solvent (AG SRP) and chemical cleansers (P21s Paintwork Cleanser).

As Frayz has said, unfortunately, from a picture like that no help can be offered as the camera will hide the imperfections. You need a high-res shot, close up, of the paint in bright light, to highlight flaws.
Unfortunately you won't get rid of the swirls by hand, but, careful use of the rotary will remove them. The downside to this, is often a rotary will leave marks, that will need to be taken out with a random orbit machine, which will leave no marks at all when used correctly.

A light cut polish like SRP will work better on a RO machine, and you'll probably get a better result over the whole car with this; a rotary is usually only necessary as a last resort for badly marred paintwork.

Gareth
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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Gaz7

I really appreciate ur advise. My problem is my S2 is a daily driver, and i get daily comments about how good the car looks. This has encouraged me to keep uit even cleaner, and this is what im after. I have a Rotary 1800buffer, and at the moment - as a student - i wont get a RO. So, i really need to be told what to do with what ive got Luckily, i can paint - i have access to the equip. So if i realy mess up, i can repaint - but thats a little time consuming!

I'm very grateful for all ur help - If any of u want to know about CVH enignes, i'll be there lol

Rick.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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No probs

If the paint isn't that bad, then stick to working by hand to aviod inflicting marring with the rotary.

You may want to consider AG Ultra Deep Shine as well; as this has fillers to help mask defects.

Once polished layer your chosen wax to get a more impressive shine. If applying the glaze by hand, sometimes this can also work well layered. Due to it being best applied thin, sometimes two layers can help - if only to provide a more even coverage. Don't forget to seal the glaze!

Gareth
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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OK, i have the AH UDS - now i need some glaze and Wax - take it gold class is a bit shit?
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Rick, Gold class isnt shit, none of those products are.. theres just stuff out there thats better thats all
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Yup, as above, none of the products are bad. Just some are better than others and some are better suited to certain colours and finishes.

Lots of Gold Class products are very good, but the finishing wax is a little lacking compared to others available.

Gareth
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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As Gaz7 said Rick,

We're both big belivers that one manufacturer doesn't make the best of everything when it comes to car care.
Therefore we belive the right combination of products from various manufacturers used in the right order will give you the finish youre looking for.

Frayz
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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I've just remembered - i have some swissol stuff:

Cleaner Fluid
This paint preserving solution will nourish the paint with its ”heavy” polishing oils. The product does not contain abrasives. Swirl marks, light scratches, tar, tree sap and old wax are completely removed. Cleaner Fluid stops short of the underlying paint layer without scratching it. Apply before Swissol wax treatment.

What's it good for? What is it?! (Glaze, polish, sealer, marketing bull)

Also - u guys are gonna have to tell me which finishing wax to go for. No way am i going to decide between harley, p21 and the other u mentioned...

So think hard - Radiant red shed - what would u use

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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:37 PM
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That's a paint cleanser (chemical cleaner polish). It's like the P21s Paintwork cleanser, but i prefer the P21s product. It will only completly remove swirl marks in the marketing man's dreams... It may help temporarily mask them though. It's not a poor product, but much like many expensive Swissol or Zymol products, i feel you can get the same/better results from much cheaper products. Swissol and Zymol can trade on their name quite a lot, and marketing hype.

I'd use either the Clearkote wax, or P21s.

Gareth
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:41 PM
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Gaz7 is the man for red cars im affraid Rick,

check his concours fez... shes mintier than a minty mint mint

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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:49 PM
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Ok, so at what stage do i use it if at all
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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Wax or paint cleanser? The wax is always, without question, the final stage. Paint cleanser takes the place of the polish, as you don't need to use polish everytime once you've got a finish you're pleased with.

Gareth
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:04 AM
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The glaze however is after the polish stage.

Imagine you wash your hands in thinners.... they're real clean with no dirt but the thinners has dried them out.
This is what happens when you polish your paint. What would you put on your hands if you washed them in thinners? Moisturiser?

This is exactly what a glaze does, it acts like hand cream for your paint. It replenishes lost oils and deepens the shine after you have polished that becomes even more noticeable once the finishing wax is taken off

Hope that helps

Frayz
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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so i could use the swissol cleaner fluid after the SR? Or instead if i dont have swirl marks?
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:12 AM
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You'd use it instead, although best to continue with a proper polish until you have a finish you're pleased with. Even using that, you'll still need to apply proper polish throughout the course of a year.

Gareth
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