Running in engines...
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Advanced PassionFord User
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From: Manchester... Home of the Reds.
Whats the best way to run in an engine... just rebuilt my frst engine, replacing piston rings, turbo, etc etc etc
want to make sure i dont fook up
want to make sure i dont fook up
difference of opinion again
,
well i just done 4k after new build and now its fuuked! i drove it lightly for the first 1k miles !
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194779
,well i just done 4k after new build and now its fuuked! i drove it lightly for the first 1k miles !
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194779
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Advanced PassionFord User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Manchester... Home of the Reds.
Originally Posted by leecavturbo
difference of opinion again
,
well i just done 4k after new build and now its fuuked! i drove it lightly for the first 1k miles !
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194779
,well i just done 4k after new build and now its fuuked! i drove it lightly for the first 1k miles !
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194779
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From: Avoiding idiots - or trying to....
Originally Posted by StickerPaul
Run it in on mineral oil and just do 1000 gental miles mate, after that change the oil & enjoy
Originally Posted by Mr S1
Originally Posted by StickerPaul
Run it in on mineral oil and just do 1000 gental miles mate, after that change the oil & enjoy
100 miles on cheap shit oil, drop oil add new filter, then every 200 miles drop your oil and replace with better oil working your way up to fully synthetic at 1,000... then get it to stu for a setup.
Don't take her above 3,000rpm while in this running in period and also try and run it in at different rev ranges.... keeping it at say 2.500rpm for a long distance could glaze the bore's i've been told, so just run it in on everyday roads, stopping and starting etc.
DO NOT drive it like you stole it as you have put a new turbo/actuator and large front mount cooler on and you will have no idea of boost/fueling etc.
Roll on tomorrow to get her fired up, can't wait
Don't take her above 3,000rpm while in this running in period and also try and run it in at different rev ranges.... keeping it at say 2.500rpm for a long distance could glaze the bore's i've been told, so just run it in on everyday roads, stopping and starting etc.
DO NOT drive it like you stole it as you have put a new turbo/actuator and large front mount cooler on and you will have no idea of boost/fueling etc.
Roll on tomorrow to get her fired up, can't wait
is there any proof other than some home made website to prove that hammering it works
engine have been run in gently for years and there is proff that that works. presonly i can't see any harm in taking it easy on shitty oil for a good 3000 miles
engine have been run in gently for years and there is proff that that works. presonly i can't see any harm in taking it easy on shitty oil for a good 3000 miles
loving the differance of opinion
im going to help you here, ive worked in the motor industry now for over 15 years, and have driven more than 15,000 differant cars, i have driven old/new.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
im going to help you here, ive worked in the motor industry now for over 15 years, and have driven more than 15,000 differant cars, i have driven old/new.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
Originally Posted by markk
loving the differance of opinion
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
i've always heard to run it gently for between 500 and 1000 miles.
then get good oil in and get it set up nice.
but like said above, the better u treat her now the better she will be in a few years time
then get good oil in and get it set up nice.
but like said above, the better u treat her now the better she will be in a few years time
i think there is a write-up about running engines in, in the front of the burton power catalogue. Some good info in thier. I always thought 500 easy miles then slightly harder (no more than 3.5k) was the way. Did this with my mk1 escort when i rebuilt it, and that took a right beating. make sure you use cheap/crap oil like own brand stuff for the first run as the fully syns tend to clean the engine and you dont wanna do that initially.
Originally Posted by Manchester Mike
Originally Posted by markk
loving the differance of opinion
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.

i mean who doesnt rag a courtesy car ?
for me ,i run the car up to temp in the garage, check for leaks, change the oil, then its as simple as a gentle ride round, up/down the box, small amounts of boost pressure, no constant cruise for approx 100miles check for any probs ( correct as ness) change oil , give it full chat for a few miles, change oil -
start special stage 1...................
i will have a new engine fully ready for competition within a day or so.
Most brand new cars are ragged shitless from cold by the delivery boys, boat loaders etc etc. Trust me, I know
Run it in hard, warm it through by driving gently then use 75% throttle to take the revs from 2k or so to 5k and let it overrun back down and do it again. repeat a few times then use more throttle and more revs. Dont let the engine labour, do 50-100 miles like that then drop the oil, replace with decent stuff and thrash it.
Run it in hard, warm it through by driving gently then use 75% throttle to take the revs from 2k or so to 5k and let it overrun back down and do it again. repeat a few times then use more throttle and more revs. Dont let the engine labour, do 50-100 miles like that then drop the oil, replace with decent stuff and thrash it.
Originally Posted by markk
loving the differance of opinion
im going to help you here, ive worked in the motor industry now for over 15 years, and have driven more than 15,000 differant cars, i have driven old/new.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
im going to help you here, ive worked in the motor industry now for over 15 years, and have driven more than 15,000 differant cars, i have driven old/new.
the best cars that have ALWAYS had the least problems, but had the BEST performance have ALWAYS been the loan/courtesy cars we have had at any dealer franchise.
ask yourself why ?
please comment below.
in my line of work i get hire cars very often. do i treat them with respect?
do i fuck
one instance:
i picked up a brand new 2.2 mondeo tdci
it had just 13 miles on the clock.
its about a 20 min drive to the motorway from work, traffic etc so not caining it.
got it nice and warm, and with about 30 miles on it it was motorway time. wound it up to 140+mph lol, got home and realised it had 6 gears pmsl
anyhow, it went like fook, didnt have any probs at all with it.
but if it were my car, asda do oil for Ł2.74 for 5L of 20/50
use the cheapest, shittest oil you can buy. take it easy for 50 miles then replace oil filter - same oil
then give it a bit more, dont labour the engine tho make sure it revs freely etc and dump the oil and filter after another 100 miles
then use some good oil, not synthetic tho - still mineral
and give it a bit more for another 100 miles
oil and filter change, drive it like normal
thats what im gonna do anyhow
ginge is running in my new engine for me at the minute (new rings/shells/gaskets etc...)
Done it text book from what i have been told by keeping it below 2500rpm, driven to work everyday so revs always changing. Changing oil at 500 to better stuff, then getting a slightly harder 500 miles with a little boost, then maybe another oil change and set up
Done it text book from what i have been told by keeping it below 2500rpm, driven to work everyday so revs always changing. Changing oil at 500 to better stuff, then getting a slightly harder 500 miles with a little boost, then maybe another oil change and set up
Thread Starter
Advanced PassionFord User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,193
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From: Manchester... Home of the Reds.
cheers for all the input here people
Still a bit confused as there is conflicting info from people who know a hell of a lot more than me....
p.s.... Radders... MASSIVE
Still a bit confused as there is conflicting info from people who know a hell of a lot more than me....
p.s.... Radders... MASSIVE
No idea if it's the same with cars but with 2 stroke motocross bikes if you rag the shit out of your bike out of the box you're likely to get a bit more power but have a lot shorter life expectancy of the engine. Best way to run in a race bike as you get more power but the piston isnt used for long anyway so ragging it doesnt matter. However if you're running in a bike to ride alot and want it to last longer its best to run it in gently.
HTH
Probably doesnt help one single bit though
HTH
Probably doesnt help one single bit though
not sure why people say take it easy??? if it's been put together right there's nothing that's going to break
when i did mine, i ran it up to full temp, then did 20 miles of light boost driving (literally just about 2-3 psi) then dropped the oil and went from there driving normally with gradually increasing levels of boost.after about 500 miles it was given full boost plenty of times and i had it re-mapped after 800 miles,where it was obviously given death
when i did mine, i ran it up to full temp, then did 20 miles of light boost driving (literally just about 2-3 psi) then dropped the oil and went from there driving normally with gradually increasing levels of boost.after about 500 miles it was given full boost plenty of times and i had it re-mapped after 800 miles,where it was obviously given death
just out of interest, say the new 'hire cars' we are talking about- by the time they hit the road they have half decent oil in so can take a thrashing
if you are running in a cossie on cheap shit Ł2.99 oil to bed the rings, then you thrash the life out of it surely the turbo will suffer?
if you are running in a cossie on cheap shit Ł2.99 oil to bed the rings, then you thrash the life out of it surely the turbo will suffer?
if you are running in a cossie on cheap shit Ł2.99 oil to bed the rings, then you thrash the life out of it surely the turbo will suffer?
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