Whats the best way to allow castor adjustment on my Series 2?

Retrofit the Series 1 / RS 16i front set-up and then use the up rated adjustable tie-bars you offer? Or is there another way?

 

A standard S1/RSi roll bar set up will allow castor angle adjustment but you are also pulling the wheels forwards/backwards aswell.

 

Fit either S1 turbo front crossmember (strong but heavy) or the RS1600i (lightweight alloy one), but you will have to change the gearbox casing so as you can get rid of the gearbox x/member and fit the corner mounting leg of the Mk3.

You will then have the adjustment available from the standard (but flimsy)tension struts, (Castor angle adjustment IS moving the wheels forward or backwards) or maybe replace them with stronger aftermarket ones, ideally at the same time as fitting the adjustable TCA's.

My tension struts have a nice solid link to the TCA to replace the squidgy rubbers and this has an adjustable angle so you can set the tension strut at the correct angle to the TCA once you've set the castor and camber angles up. This then forms a fully rose-jointed bottom "Wishbone" as the two items form the one part.

Hope this info is useful,





Cheers,

Martin

 

John, a simple quick solution depending on how much thread you have is to fit a second TCA rubber bush on whichever side of the TCA you want to induce castor.

It helps a little when trying things out

We have these spare rubber bushes in stock too

 

MEFmotorsport very nice info there think i will have to buy a set of these tension struts

 

Thanks guys...I already have a S1 box fitted in mine so thats not a problem

Are the mounting points on the front cross member different? [I believe new holes need to be drilled to allow it to be fittted?]

TONY,

From memory I don't have much thread left on the end of my anti-roll bar [deffo not enough for another bush] but possibly some thin washers. What effect does pushing wheel back have? I really want to improve turn-in.

 

Hi John,

OK, yes you will have to drill a couple of the holes for the S1 corner plates, not all as some line up with exiting Mk4/S2 corner plate holes. Remember to "tube" them so the x/member doesn't get squashed when you tighten up the bolts. Drill the hole bigger from underneath then get a piece of tubing with a suitable diameter and length and put it in with the bolt (like sometimes is necessary fitting a tow bar on older cars).

Glad you already have the S1 gearbox, it's a big job having to change the casing in order to fit the S1 front end stuff!

Tony was talking rubbish (must be tired after the little rally last weekend!) putting in a spacer will REDUCE the castor, exactly what you don't want to do!!! You need to shorten the length of the Tension strut to move the wheels forward slightly (but don't overdoo it!) The steering goes heavier with more castor angle! but it should turn in a tad better with slightly increased castor. The solid link on my compression struts to the TCA will improve things anyway as that and the rosejointed TCA inner and the front end of the tensions strut will ensure that the castor doesn't actually reduce when the car turns in and leans on the wheel like it does with rubber bushed suspension!

 

Brilliant thanks for that

Right then...think I need to keep the eye open for a RS16i front end

 

eBay mate, the RSi rollbar set ups usually appear regularly, dont usually fetch over ฃ100

 

I have an rs1600i cross member and the two rods that bolt to it just missing the roll bar though if this is any good to you?