Final drive ratio
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Bit of a hypothetical question, but say if your RST was to have around 320bhp and was to have a new gearbox bulit by CTS, then would you keep the original final drive ratio, or change it?
I personally think it would be wise to change it to a slightly lower ratio, because...
a) You'll have loads of torque, so it may (slightly) eliminate some of the wheelspin in 1st/2nd and probablly 3rd gear.
b) You would be able to obtain higher top end speed
I havent got all the details at hand of the standard final drive ratio and the available final drive ratio's from cts when building the box, but would just be interested in peoples opinions.
I presume christian has a different final drive to achive his 168mph top speed run as I think the standard box is limited to about 153, but im not sure what his final drive ratio would be.
Opinions ?
I personally think it would be wise to change it to a slightly lower ratio, because...
a) You'll have loads of torque, so it may (slightly) eliminate some of the wheelspin in 1st/2nd and probablly 3rd gear.
b) You would be able to obtain higher top end speed
I havent got all the details at hand of the standard final drive ratio and the available final drive ratio's from cts when building the box, but would just be interested in peoples opinions.
I presume christian has a different final drive to achive his 168mph top speed run as I think the standard box is limited to about 153, but im not sure what his final drive ratio would be.
Opinions ?
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i would 3.82 final drive not to my personal liking, i will be speaking to bernie about dropping to either 3.5 or 3.3 but it does all depend where peak power is, on most zvh for Instants going lower would help because peak power Achieved @ a low rpm but they have the torque to pull the gears.
I do have carefully considered ratio's. There are 2 sides to the coin.
Shorter ratio's will obviously make the car accelerate faster, but the power delivery could potentially smash the gearbox.
Alternatively, longer ratio's will make the car accelerate slower and in some ways be kinder to the gearbox. Although, the strain on the gearbox will be greater, so could just as easily strip gears.
If you go taller and get it wrong, the car will feel laggy and awful.
Also, don't expect to put a tall ratio in and just go and do 170mph.
I remember having Series 1 ratio's in mine and it was an absolute flying machine. But topped out before it went off the speedo. Now it goes off the speedo in 4th!!
Shorter ratio's will obviously make the car accelerate faster, but the power delivery could potentially smash the gearbox.
Alternatively, longer ratio's will make the car accelerate slower and in some ways be kinder to the gearbox. Although, the strain on the gearbox will be greater, so could just as easily strip gears.
If you go taller and get it wrong, the car will feel laggy and awful.
Also, don't expect to put a tall ratio in and just go and do 170mph.
I remember having Series 1 ratio's in mine and it was an absolute flying machine. But topped out before it went off the speedo. Now it goes off the speedo in 4th!!
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I as just thinking that with that kind of power, it would be wise to choose a slightly taller final drive, but was just unsure of how you would go about deciding on an actual ratio so you get the most out of the potential of the power output.
IME Anything taller than the stock 3.82 feels horrible, I ran a 3.58 (IIRC) with 17" wheels and could do from 20mph to almost 120mph in 3rd, was like driving an auto!! I did have a theoretical top speed of 188mph though!
lol
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PassionFord Post Troll
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From: shrewsbury shropshire
Personally i prefer a longer ratio box and i think once rolling they are actually quicker up to a point, ie the series 2s 3.82 vs the series 1 4.?? In a series 1 or xr3i you are always changing gear and its revving its tits off at 70/80mph whereas the Series 2 is relaxed at cruise and you dont need to keep changing.
Eg - an Xr3i or series 1 won't do a genuine 60mph in 2nd (standard rev limit applied)
whereas a series2 turbo or orion 1.6i will, as they have taller final drives.
In gear the shorter box maybe quicker but from say 50-100 there will be an extra gearchange so it ruins the advantage?
Karlos - was the 3.58 from a diesel?
Im tempted to try a longer final drive (maybe the 3.58) for an even more relaxed cruise (circa 2500rpm @ 70mph) and so i can use 2nd on roundabouts etc, as i currently use 3rd and its just at the point of spool up so 1/2 way round i hit boost and it upsets the car.
IMO with 300bhp i'd go for the taller gears as the torque and power will pull thru nicely, and the shorter ratios will just be wheelspinning and hitting limiter etc.
Eg - an Xr3i or series 1 won't do a genuine 60mph in 2nd (standard rev limit applied)
whereas a series2 turbo or orion 1.6i will, as they have taller final drives.
In gear the shorter box maybe quicker but from say 50-100 there will be an extra gearchange so it ruins the advantage?
Karlos - was the 3.58 from a diesel?
Im tempted to try a longer final drive (maybe the 3.58) for an even more relaxed cruise (circa 2500rpm @ 70mph) and so i can use 2nd on roundabouts etc, as i currently use 3rd and its just at the point of spool up so 1/2 way round i hit boost and it upsets the car.
IMO with 300bhp i'd go for the taller gears as the torque and power will pull thru nicely, and the shorter ratios will just be wheelspinning and hitting limiter etc.
Last edited by Rogeyboy; Apr 19, 2012 at 07:50 AM.
PassionFord Post Troll
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From: shrewsbury shropshire
Personally i prefer a longer ratio box and i think once rolling they are actually quicker up to a point, ie the series 2s 3.82 vs the series 1 4.?? In a series 1 or xr3i you are always changing gear and its revving its tits off at 70/80mph whereas the Series 2 is relaxed at cruise and you dont need to keep changing.
Eg - an Xr3i or series 1 won't do a genuine 60mph in 2nd (standard rev limit applied)
whereas a series2 turbo or orion 1.6i will, as they have taller final drives.
In gear the shorter box maybe quicker but from say 50-100 there will be an extra gearchange so it ruins the advantage?
Karlos - was the 3.58 from a diesel?
Im tempted to try a longer final drive (maybe the 3.58) for an even more relaxed cruise (circa 2500rpm @ 70mph) and so i can use 2nd on roundabouts etc, as i currently use 3rd and its just at the point of spool up so 1/2 way round i hit boost and it upsets the car.
IMO with 300bhp i'd go for the taller gears as the torque and power will pull thru nicely, and the shorter ratios will just be wheelspinning and hitting limiter etc.
Eg - an Xr3i or series 1 won't do a genuine 60mph in 2nd (standard rev limit applied)
whereas a series2 turbo or orion 1.6i will, as they have taller final drives.
In gear the shorter box maybe quicker but from say 50-100 there will be an extra gearchange so it ruins the advantage?
Karlos - was the 3.58 from a diesel?
Im tempted to try a longer final drive (maybe the 3.58) for an even more relaxed cruise (circa 2500rpm @ 70mph) and so i can use 2nd on roundabouts etc, as i currently use 3rd and its just at the point of spool up so 1/2 way round i hit boost and it upsets the car.
IMO with 300bhp i'd go for the taller gears as the torque and power will pull thru nicely, and the shorter ratios will just be wheelspinning and hitting limiter etc.
PassionFord Post Troll
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From: shrewsbury shropshire
mk2 fiesta/ mk3 escort diesel i think and they mite be a different 6 bolt pattern on the diff aswel, cant remb
looked in to it a few years ago for mine but went for the 3.5 as gearing to 190+ on 16s @7.5k is more than enough
jamsport may still have the bits u need
looked in to it a few years ago for mine but went for the 3.5 as gearing to 190+ on 16s @7.5k is more than enough
jamsport may still have the bits u need
Last edited by stuart collins; Apr 20, 2012 at 08:06 AM.
I like the standard RST gearing, Im not sure what i have at the moment but its an IB5 from a 1.8 non turbo diesel van
very close ratio's and its bloody annoying. Constantly changing gear, cant do 60 in 2nd (unless i raise the rev limit to nearly 7k)... A taller box will also load the engine up more and help spool up time in lower gears, I don't get max boost until 3rd gear as the load just isn't there, but that is 25psi in 3rd lol
Rob,
very close ratio's and its bloody annoying. Constantly changing gear, cant do 60 in 2nd (unless i raise the rev limit to nearly 7k)... A taller box will also load the engine up more and help spool up time in lower gears, I don't get max boost until 3rd gear as the load just isn't there, but that is 25psi in 3rd lol Rob,
Rob u love abit of boost don't u... Im on a lowly 12-13psi
, Car moves well as it is tho! I guess the stage 3 turbo helps!
I'd love to find an IB5 with the same (or at least similar) ratios to stock orion/rst. Or even with a little taller final drive!
I'd love to find an IB5 with the same (or at least similar) ratios to stock orion/rst. Or even with a little taller final drive!
The IB5 feels like a very positive improvement over all, and it didn't break when the car was on the road! But if I keep the escort I think an MTX75 swap is on the cards.
Rob,
1st 3.15
2nd 1.91
3rd 1.28
4th 0.95
5th 0.76
FD 3.82
1.8 Escorts Inc Estate
3.15
1.93
1.28
0.95
0.76
FD 3.82
1.3 Ka PAS (What I run)
3.15
1.93
1.28
0.95
0.76
FD 4.06
Non PAS has a FD of 3.59 making each gear a bit longer.
Last edited by Karlos G; Apr 20, 2012 at 03:09 PM.
It's quite simple choosing what final drive you require.
Choose your realistic maximum top speed, wheel size and maximum engine rpm. From that work out your final drive required and choose the one thats nearest.
Our ERST top speed record with Oli's car was done on std gearing with 7600rpm limit for 174mph. Obviously if the engine did'nt rev as high we would have to have used a longer final drive.
Just do the maths and work it out, don't guess!
Choose your realistic maximum top speed, wheel size and maximum engine rpm. From that work out your final drive required and choose the one thats nearest.
Our ERST top speed record with Oli's car was done on std gearing with 7600rpm limit for 174mph. Obviously if the engine did'nt rev as high we would have to have used a longer final drive.
Just do the maths and work it out, don't guess!
It's quite simple choosing what final drive you require.
Choose your realistic maximum top speed, wheel size and maximum engine rpm. From that work out your final drive required and choose the one thats nearest.
Our ERST top speed record with Oli's car was done on std gearing with 7600rpm limit for 174mph. Obviously if the engine did'nt rev as high we would have to have used a longer final drive.
Just do the maths and work it out, don't guess!
Choose your realistic maximum top speed, wheel size and maximum engine rpm. From that work out your final drive required and choose the one thats nearest.
Our ERST top speed record with Oli's car was done on std gearing with 7600rpm limit for 174mph. Obviously if the engine did'nt rev as high we would have to have used a longer final drive.
Just do the maths and work it out, don't guess!
Im not so sure that choosing a final drive based around your maximum speed is the best way forward for a road car... probably a good starting point though. I would happily go for a car that cruised happily at 2500 rpm at around 60-70 if I was on the motorway a lot... clearly the car is never going to do 210mph though
Any MK5 Escort thats IB5 is front starter and cable IIRC.
Last edited by Karlos G; Apr 23, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
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