Clutch Drag - MT75
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
OK, when i had my box rebuild by bernie and had a new clutch fitted, he pointed out that i was getting clutch drag, whcih was causing it to be quite tricky to get into gear (i'd always had it, i just thought it was a fucked box!)
its also a BIT (not much mind) worse than it was before on my old clutch (old clutch = f**cked standard one, new clutch =helix organic upgrated cossie one)
i've also change the clutch cable the other day, and whilst this gives me a nicer pedal, its still causing a bit of drag.
now, is there anything i can do to improve the situation that DOESNT involve going for a hydraulic clutch conversion? (or changing the quadrant as thatsa BITCH
)
its just one of the things that really lets my car down, as it makes it awkward to drive, especiaLLY WHEN MAKING SWIFT PROGRESS FROM 1ST TO 2ND, MY GEARCHANGE TAKES ABOUT 2 SECONDS (OOPS, CAPS :CRY: )
its also a BIT (not much mind) worse than it was before on my old clutch (old clutch = f**cked standard one, new clutch =helix organic upgrated cossie one)
i've also change the clutch cable the other day, and whilst this gives me a nicer pedal, its still causing a bit of drag.
now, is there anything i can do to improve the situation that DOESNT involve going for a hydraulic clutch conversion? (or changing the quadrant as thatsa BITCH
)its just one of the things that really lets my car down, as it makes it awkward to drive, especiaLLY WHEN MAKING SWIFT PROGRESS FROM 1ST TO 2ND, MY GEARCHANGE TAKES ABOUT 2 SECONDS (OOPS, CAPS :CRY: )
Jim Galbally for now you can just give up using clutch - you won't be damaging gearbox so much at least.
Hope somebody will know how this is fixed. I get that ometimes too. But only sometimes.
Hope somebody will know how this is fixed. I get that ometimes too. But only sometimes.
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From: Cumbria/Preston
I've got a Zetec Turbo Fiesta with an AP 4 paddle clutch. From the beginning I had a very low biting point, and slow gearchanges, thought it didn't grind when putting it into gear. The ratchet finally gave up about three weeks ago, and tomororw I'll be finishing off the manual adjust conversion. I've had the old pedal and quadrant off, new pedal, quadrant and cable are now in, I just need to hook the cable onto the quadrant and the job'll be done. It's not SO bad, and should be very worthwhile.
It noticeably slowed me 0-60 times, as my gearshifts are all much slower than they should be on a brand new CTS 'box! Bite the bullet, do the pedal conversion
It noticeably slowed me 0-60 times, as my gearshifts are all much slower than they should be on a brand new CTS 'box! Bite the bullet, do the pedal conversion
Hi Jim
AP do an add on kit for your clutch pedal it give is a bit more leverage it's like an extra bit of ratchet , it will stop a lot of drag + you will be able to select gears easy
marco
AP do an add on kit for your clutch pedal it give is a bit more leverage it's like an extra bit of ratchet , it will stop a lot of drag + you will be able to select gears easy
marco
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
marco, any ideas what its called? if i remmebr i'll ring AP tomorrow 
also, do you have to replace the quadrant? as ive heard thats a BITCH of a job
also are there different types of quadrant? im thinkign does it matter than my car's originally a 2WD?
also when you lift my clutch pedal UP it doesnt spring back or anything, i thought it should if the self adjuster was ok?

also, do you have to replace the quadrant? as ive heard thats a BITCH of a job

also are there different types of quadrant? im thinkign does it matter than my car's originally a 2WD?
also when you lift my clutch pedal UP it doesnt spring back or anything, i thought it should if the self adjuster was ok?
Jim Galbally quadrant job is couple of hours if you don't know how to do it and learn everything by jourself, my mechanic currently has so much skill with it he can do it on road section of the rally without significant time loss and many tools
Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
marco, any ideas what its called? if i remmebr i'll ring AP tomorrow 
also, do you have to replace the quadrant? as ive heard thats a BITCH of a job
also are there different types of quadrant? im thinkign does it matter than my car's originally a 2WD?
also when you lift my clutch pedal UP it doesnt spring back or anything, i thought it should if the self adjuster was ok?

also, do you have to replace the quadrant? as ive heard thats a BITCH of a job

also are there different types of quadrant? im thinkign does it matter than my car's originally a 2WD?
also when you lift my clutch pedal UP it doesnt spring back or anything, i thought it should if the self adjuster was ok?
do it out in the open
refit
about 5 hours if you don't know what you are doing
a few days if you let the springs spring out and lose bits
let me get you a picture
or 7
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i'll post them up just so's that everyone else can see what you are not going to be doing 
just out of curiosity, i think i might be able to solve the problem IF you can confirm that the quadrant in your car is red
just out of curiosity, i think i might be able to solve the problem IF you can confirm that the quadrant in your car is red








various angles for you to see what you are up against
there IS enough space to do it in the car, but it's twice as long and then you might have trouble trying to get the buggery thing back in again if you've got a burr on the shaft
also, notice the 1st and 7th pictures showing the depth of the cable run
on the yellow ones the arc is much further out, and you also get a black one where the arc is virtually the whole depth of the quadrant (ie nothing at all other than a shallow channel in the surface)
on the yellow ones the arc is much further out, and you also get a black one where the arc is virtually the whole depth of the quadrant (ie nothing at all other than a shallow channel in the surface)
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
i have a RED one
and its not self adjusted at all (ie its got max pull)
are you saying the yellow one will give me more swing? do i need to swap my red one for a yellow one?
and its not self adjusted at all (ie its got max pull)
are you saying the yellow one will give me more swing? do i need to swap my red one for a yellow one?
There are also two release arms .... One from the 2.0lt 4x4 which doesn't have as much leaverage but looks exactly the same untill you put them side by side. 2.0lt 4x4 has much thicker flywheel so needs less leaverage.
Took me ages to figure that one out
Took me ages to figure that one out
I did the quadrant on my old rst whilst it was in the car, never again
If you like laying upside down in your footwell all day then go for it
Taking the pedal box out is the only sensible way.
If you like laying upside down in your footwell all day then go for it
Taking the pedal box out is the only sensible way.
jim, the pedal box is my old one, i changed from a red to a yellow quadrant and it made a fair bit of differance...if you lower the steering column it pops out without a problem, the time consuming part is reassembling the dash....
The way I did it was take the bottom of the dash out, undone the 4 bolts and the 2 small ones at the top, so you can remove the outside bracket on the clutch side. Then the clutch box will just roll round the steering cloum.
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
ok, so i need to replace my red one with a yellow one... joy
i hope ford sell em.
also rung AP and the bit that marco's describing they only ever need on the escort turbo. so it must be my shitty red quadrant causing the problems.
it wasa nightmare earlier today, had to almost force it into gear
i hope ford sell em.
also rung AP and the bit that marco's describing they only ever need on the escort turbo. so it must be my shitty red quadrant causing the problems.
it wasa nightmare earlier today, had to almost force it into gear
Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
ok, so i need to replace my red one with a yellow one... joy
i hope ford sell em.
also rung AP and the bit that marco's describing they only ever need on the escort turbo. so it must be my shitty red quadrant causing the problems.
it wasa nightmare earlier today, had to almost force it into gear
i hope ford sell em.
also rung AP and the bit that marco's describing they only ever need on the escort turbo. so it must be my shitty red quadrant causing the problems.
it wasa nightmare earlier today, had to almost force it into gear

micks one threw a spring out and then no drive whatsoever
had to scrap flywheel as well as the clutch
not being sarcastic or nothing jim, but you could have a Ł20k engine freshly rebuilt mate and rev the nuts off of it and kill it on the way home
the builder is still going to say it's not his fault ain't he
change the quadrant sooner rather than later, because you wil only have to replace the clutch if you don't
and no, no manner of wedges or whatevers will be able to help solve the problem in the meantime as there isn't enough leverage on the clutch fork itself from the pedal
you've only got x amount of movement from the pedal unles you put the different quadrant in
if it's that much of an issue and you've got no one else to do it, bring it round ine and i'll point you throught the who proccess, i'd do it myself but my back isn't what it used to be
it's a 10 minute job to change the quadrant, it's just everything else to get it done thats the pain in the arse
the builder is still going to say it's not his fault ain't he
change the quadrant sooner rather than later, because you wil only have to replace the clutch if you don't
and no, no manner of wedges or whatevers will be able to help solve the problem in the meantime as there isn't enough leverage on the clutch fork itself from the pedal
you've only got x amount of movement from the pedal unles you put the different quadrant in
if it's that much of an issue and you've got no one else to do it, bring it round ine and i'll point you throught the who proccess, i'd do it myself but my back isn't what it used to be
it's a 10 minute job to change the quadrant, it's just everything else to get it done thats the pain in the arse
there are 2 plastic bushes you might as well change at the same time, you can just about see them in the pics
the total is going to be less than a fiver for the bits
the total is going to be less than a fiver for the bits
the whole kit is 99p in halfords 
but it's not a lot of money jim, and much cheaper than getting the clutch done again
the offer still stands if you want to pop round and have a go tomorrow (or even tonight as the garage might be empty enough)
but it's not a lot of money jim, and much cheaper than getting the clutch done again
the offer still stands if you want to pop round and have a go tomorrow (or even tonight as the garage might be empty enough)
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
ok, i've got me a nice new quadrant kit with the yellow bit, the tooth bit and the bushes. booked in to have that slkapped in on wednesday 
however in the mantime, ITS GETTING WORSE
start the car from cold in the morning and the gearchange is fine.
once its warm it gets harder.
after youve been driving for 30minutes, it does NOT want to engage gear. i had to use 2 hands to get it into 2nd to pull away! (its ok when moving tho, bit notchy, but it goes in) also i can smell the clutch slipping in a trafic jam (and ive got a headache now
)
so, any thoughts on why it's be any different once its warm?

however in the mantime, ITS GETTING WORSE

start the car from cold in the morning and the gearchange is fine.
once its warm it gets harder.
after youve been driving for 30minutes, it does NOT want to engage gear. i had to use 2 hands to get it into 2nd to pull away! (its ok when moving tho, bit notchy, but it goes in) also i can smell the clutch slipping in a trafic jam (and ive got a headache now
)so, any thoughts on why it's be any different once its warm?
jim read my post!!!!
as the bearing heats up it will get worse,when you engage the clutch the gearbox shaft should spine freely on the spigot bearing in the crank,if its damaged it will nip the gear shaft so that it still spins,make gearchanges almost impossible.
ive seen it on cosworths loads of times and on other cars hundreds of times.
as the bearing heats up it will get worse,when you engage the clutch the gearbox shaft should spine freely on the spigot bearing in the crank,if its damaged it will nip the gear shaft so that it still spins,make gearchanges almost impossible.
ive seen it on cosworths loads of times and on other cars hundreds of times.
funnily enough, my twinkly has been parked up with the same problem
old man burnt the clutch out, and after that, the spigot bearing and input shaft don't spin seperatly anymore
old man burnt the clutch out, and after that, the spigot bearing and input shaft don't spin seperatly anymore
1st time I did a quadrant on my Saff it took me less than 1 hour as you can get the clutch and brake pedal out of the car complete and change the quadrant on the "bench"






