Hello ppl am back with the next chapter..lol

right as I have past my Muppet test regarding the abs loom..haha

I have now had my ecu fully tested and it has come back perrrrfect, the plugs are now in the correct units...booohoo.. but the cossie still wont run, I am getting fuel up now and everything is reading right plus no breaks in any wires.

My auto elec thinks its the crank sensor now, as I am getting power to my dizzy and all the right things are happening.

what does anyone think on here, I have priced up the sensor and they want about £65 for it from fords, but I don't really wanna go and get it until I have covered every other possibility.. not cos am tight..

many thank to all who reply.

 

first off, check that the crank sensor is gapped properly.
it shuld be between 0.6 and 1mm away from the lugs on the
crank pulley. (set mine at 0.75mm i think)

ALSO check that there are still 4 lugs on the crank pulley.

The plug for this sensor is just behind the distributor,
check the connection there.

you can get a new TDC/crank sensor for about £25 mate

not 100% sure on how to test if its fooked or not though.
(not sure that testing voltage across the terminals while turning the engine over is a good idea? might it fook the ECU?)

 

cheers for your reply.

anyway the pully is fine and the is spaced correct, plus yeah i have checked if i am getting a voltage on the crank sensor/speed sensor. but its more like a pulse, my auto elec has told me that they can go faulty when under a load????

 

it should be a pulse yes.. every time one of the lugs on the
pulley passes it.
It should at least want to start if the sensor is sending out a pulse!?

you have checked/changed coil and igniton amp?

 

if you look at my last post it will tell u what i have done...it goes on abit like...haha

just dont read the bit about the abs loom...lol

https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2590174

 

Crank sensor or phase sensor (check the wiring inside the dizzy as it rots).

From the diagnostics in the other post :

9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.

 

Had same problem with mine.Changed crank sensor and has been faultless ever since.Cost me 25.00.
Make sure it is properly connected when you fit it or it will obviosly still not work!Push the actual wires into the plug on the loom end till the spade connectors inside are fully extended,they sometimes push inside and dont connect.

 

right i have done all the check on the list, i am not getting a spark still, but when i do the dizzy check i am getting a spark from the coil main ht lead, but still no spark from the dizzy onwards, another thing i am getting a good resistance reading from the phase sensor, but no ac voltage, so i am going down the line that the phase sensor might be faulty? the only thing i could not do was move the rotor arm to each plug which i will do tomoz..

 

so it could be the rotor arm and/or dizzy cap then?

 

do you think so, i thought it could be what ever powers the phase sensor the dizzy cap is new, but it could have cracked in the cold weather??the rotor arm looks ok. its strange tho i am not getting ac voltage on the phase sensor.?

 

what is the condition of the power lead going to the starter motor like?

 

Saw the other thread t'other day

Hope it gets sorted soon

 

the rotor arm is fine and the dizzy is to... i have done the full test on all the sensors, bit i am not getting a AC voltage on the phase sensor.

i am going to write a nwe thread today with whats happening now..

 

when you say you get an ohms reading how high is ?

 

the reading is 800 ohms, i have had the ecu checked but now i am starting to think have they looked at every connection and not just looked to see if it just powers up??

 

the power lead would not stop it firing, as the engine is turnning over but i am not getting any spark after the coil..

 

So is there power to the coil?
are the connections there on the right way and all fine?

if so surely the coil is fukked? as you have told us everything else is working.

 

If you had no phase signal you would have no fuel or spark as the phase and crank signals have to be synchronised for the ecu to allow fuel and spark!!! So from that i would reckon the phase is ok?? where have you got spark from then as you said you had spark from the coil ht lead then last post you said you weren't getting any after the coil. Got to be dizzy/timing then I guess!!

 

i know what ur saying about the dizzy and timing, but the dizzy is ok. plus the timing has not been changed, i only changed the dash ... i am getting a spark from the spark plug lead soon as i turn the key on my car to the second click, thats before i even turn the car over. then i do not get a spark.
so i tuck the ht lead of and held it to the engine, an linked the ecu out so the coil would fire up manually and it does i get a spark, but it seems to break down soon as it gets to the dizzy.

that is defo right tho i should not get fuel up if the phase sensor is foooked,
so that would mean the ecu signal is ok wouldnt it!!! cos its seeing that the phase sensor is there for it to send fuel up????

 

yes, the phase does manage the fuel cycle.
so your saying you DO get a spark? its just so weak
it breaks down at the Dizzy?

ignition amp and/or coil then surely

 

yeah i do get a spark from the coil ht lead but it does not come through to the spark plugs??

i have tried a new ignition amp mod...

what i can not understand is that am getting a ohms reading from the the phase sensor but no voltage when cranking the engine!! does the ecu give this voltage ??or does the ecu just see a signal to say..yeah well the sensor is there so send fuel..do u know what i mean.

 

is 800 ohms not quite high?

 

no it should be between 300-1500 ohms

i think it could be my ecu??

 

Have you made sure the phase sensor is gapped properly had this problem with mine