Finally sorted mine today after I got a set of mk5 XR3i clocks through, off ebay!! £13

The rev counter is a straight swap, the only difficult bit is getting the needle back on in the right place!!

You need a torx 20 and a torx 8 bit, they're the only special things you need!!!


I've run a wire from one side of the coilpack wiring (trigger) and that goes to the rev counter.


As long as the clocks are from a MK5 XR3i or RS2000 then you'll be alright, not just any old coilpack mk5 as I've found that normal 1.8 zetec and also 1.6 efi clocks don't work (luckily I had these lying round the place or in my runabout!!)


Pics later on!!!

 

cool

any pics of the backs of the clocks...? so just one wire from pin 1 of one of the ignition amps...? does it work under load etc.../

 

*This is a minor idiots guide*

If you're not an idiot - tough!!

Right,
Once you've got the actual dash binnacle out here's what you do!!

The XR3i clocks.....



First remove the two bulbs at the very top of the clocks (right on top)

Flip them over, you should see this.....



Push down on the clips and the cover can then be removed.....



Remove these two torx 20 screws....



And prise off the electrical connections on the back........



Using a screwdriver, ping out this plastic clip......



Then this one.........



The rev counter then comes out......



Remove the needle stop and note where the needle sits *.............



Gently remove the needle with a fork.......



Then remove these two torx 8 screws...........



Remove the mechanism - they are pretty much exactly the same i.e. no extra add on bits.



Ok, now do exactly the same with the Cossie ones......






Now in true Haynes tradition.......

Refitting is the reverse of removal!!!!


* Before I refitted the cover, I connected them up in the car and "Fine Tuned" the needle position using my secs and laptop to check the revs.

I have yet to decide where to connect the feed for the rev signal, I've only used one of the coil pack trigger wires (next to the plug) to test it. It should however work from pin one of either ign amp too!!

 

This literally took no more than an hour today folks, but I have taken the clocks out and removed the dreaded speedo cable a few times before!!!

 

 

well done mate any part numbers on the back of the new rev counter so we can confirm we have picked up the right parts/clocks??

also, did you have an issue before with the rev counter dropping when window button pressed etc?? Is this cured??

Was yours constantly reading half etc as mine seems to have a mind of its own ROFL

 

on the face of the xr3i rev counter I got it says TACHO 91AB-17B316-BG

finis numbers

7130489


7130482 - in stock NCC £115


7188340

the numbers are all XR3i/RS2000 mk5.

My rev counter just didn't work - period, I'm on S8!!

I'll just go and check for electrickery - windows etc!!!

 

If i sit in the car at idle (or anything for that matter) and the windows are shut, if I press the UP button the needle drops

Same with the down button if windows are down

 

No electrical type shennanigans whilst under load/windows/heaters etc.

Revved up to about 5.5k on a drive earlier on, no problems.

 

cheers, hope P8 is the same Thanks!!!

 

A good fix to a Flawed conversion


Dave.

 

hardley 'flawed' really just because the fookin rev counter doesnt work most escort cosworth have far more problems than a non working rev counter

 

 

Well done mate!

Damo.. if your down the breakers.. get two pls!

 

Why doesn't the rev counter work in the first place? Certain after market ECU manufactures like MBE have an issue with regards to their rev counter signal and certain rev counter manufacturers. 9 times out of 10 a simple pull up resistor on the signal sorts it out...

 

How long did it take you lot to sort that out

 

but there must be some circuity on the coilpack that can be incorporated/adapted into the secs driver....?

 

I think actually waiting for an Xr3i or RS2000 to crash and go to the breakers would be quicker than that, don't you???

 

I have some RS2000 clocks if anyone wants them

 

yep -but there must be a good reason why the other coilpack clocks you tried didnt work - how do they get their signal..? it will be interesting to see what the final SECS fix is.... do i wait for that - OR go and find a set of mk5 3i clocks and fit them and mod the wiring at the coilpack /amps to suit....?

 

how much for the rev counter part.? are rs2 odometer numbers, white on block (normal) or black on white (escos style)?

 

Well I'll check that the rev counter works from an ignition amp output today, and you should still have your green wire floating around near the old coil area you could just connect that to pin 1 couldn't you?? Literally an hours job to have a working rev counter as a pose to simons R&D time?????

 

Calm down Markkk I wasn't slagging off Stu as it is a software issue
and I think that the rev counter only reading half what it should is a big deal.

Dave.

 

Where do i come into this?

The 1/2 counter speed issue is a PECTEL CONVERSION issue.






I have other issues

 

im sorry i dont remember mentioning stu


and if thats all you have to worry about in your life - you need to find a new one

 

 

**************UPDATE************

I am running P8 ECU with a boreham board and a pectel loom

I picked up a set of 1992 RS2000 clocks from Lennie (H20LRW) last night for the princely sum of a tenner,....


Today I removed my clock set from my car and simply plugged my loom onto the RS2000 clocks to test it all.


Well I have to say on the face of it they appeared to be ok!!

I can still manage to get the needle to go UP (strange as it was down on the old clocks ) IF I have ALL electrics on and hold the window button on.. Hopefully this wont prove to be too much of a problem

BUT apart from that seemed ok...

Oh I should point out with the Rev signal coming via the pectel loom (which has a specific wire to connect the rev signal wire to) I had no luck, the revs were reading double

So I ran a wire from pin 1 on one of the IGN Amps up to the green wire behind the clocks and that sorted it (was easy for me though as my IGN amps are by the ECU)

I then used my SECS monitor (which reads half) to work out where the RS2000 needle sat at certain RPM stages..

I then stripped both clocks (as above) and swopped it all over, went back out to the car, plugged the clocks back in and set the needle up using my predetermined points

I have yet to road test the car, as I used to have the problem where the rev counter would drop under load, but HOPEFULLY fingers crossed will be ok!! Plus once I get a pectel monitor plugged on this will help determine how accurate it all is

Cheers to Kev for being the mule

BTW the rev counter boards are defo different, if an electronics whizz compared them I'm sure the ECos counter could be modded easily enough to save buggering about with stripping them and swopping needles etc

(see pics)

You can just about see the part numbers at the top of the faces (these are identical so shouldnt be used as a guide)



RS2000 Rev counter my handwriting confirms what is printed on the sticker use this as a guide



Electrics of both counters

 

Damo, you got MSN?

want to speak to you about the resistors and diodes on that board, or if you can send me a LARGE pic of it?

something can deffinately be done, i.e an external mod

 

As I resized them I thought "bollox bet someone will want full size pics" sorry

I'll email you a resized one but it wont really tell you ALOT as the RS200 one doesnt show all the gubbins because its offcentre in the pic above (as you can see for example the big blue resistor thing on the RS2 board is hiding slightly behind the coil thingy sorry

the boards are basically the same bar
the items in/at R12 and C5 on the ECos board...

Can you see those?

 

Nice one

 

good work

 

What If you're a complete idiot and haven't removed the clocks before?

 

then you should pay someone to do it or look in the workshop manual

 

Fook that, can't be any harder than a Saph dash!