Any last hints and tips?

 

make sure chassis number is GCAB or something like that.
washer bottle is in the front passenger wing as Xr3 look alike left them in the engine bay.
RUST, RUST and look again for RUST
wheels stamped 85.
the brakes are shite anyway so don't worry about them.

that's all i can think of at the mo.

 

footwells, battery tray, fuse box, inner wings, look RIGHT up in the arches at the front, rear chassis legs, lift rear seats if u can, feel under the bodykit for sharp edges/rust.....

 

Look everywhere for rust where you didn't look last time

 

Tillio - Touché

 

make sure you hpi it first matt look what hapend last time

 

Mines safely tucked away so you're not seeing mine

 

Mark -

Cliff02398354903590834598032948-23-2039-5084589345 -

 

Take rossco with you

I really hope you get a decent one this time mate, coz, BOY was that other bean tin rusty

Top job by rossco to bring it back from the dead, most other people would have scrapped it

 

Thrush- You should know what to look for body work wise being as you owned a concourse RS Wanabee

Good luck with the hunt though, you might get lucky , mine was the second one I looked at

 

Till - tell me about it - I was gonna scrap it unless Ross bought it

Cliff239083982340823094820958 - Coooooooont! Aside from the rST sidskirts, my 3i had nothing else in common with an RS

 

Thank fook

 

Shaaaart it invalid

 

Feckin biaaatch

 

As said by the good peeps! Look everywhere. Battery Tray, Inner wing joins where they all join behind the suspension Turrets. Look down behind the front indicators always rust here on the behind of the valance. Check the front chassis legs, they normally go towards the front of the leg. Check the sill seams there normally rotten as are floorpans and seat mounts. Check wheel arches, tell tale sign is normally the body kit is a bit crinkly all the way round, but not if they have been worked on. Check under the back end, look at the rear chassis legs right up to the back valance look for any plates welded on to em. Look at rear valance joins if there are any, normally skimmed over with filler. Now in the boot look in the corners for rust or hammer marks where any accident damage has been badly repaired. Also lift the boot carpet, look along the seam along each rear suspension turret and look for orange rust creeping out from behind the turret carpets onto the boot floor.

Im sure theres a bit ive forgotten a little but thats most of it.

 

Check for rust.............................................. .................EVERYWHERE!

 

heres a hint... dont buy one...

get a rusty, ratty shit lookin saph with 400+bhp instead... you know you want to!

 

No Jim, YOU want one but can't afford one

Cheers for the usefull posts chaps Shall try to come back with one that was a lot better than me last S1

 

ur no wrong there

 

And you can shut it an all

 

Well, it ain't MINT. In as far as it ain't concourse condition. But it is VERY clean, very clean indeed actually. Not as clean as some I have seen on the stands, but a damn sight cleaner than a fair few

Anyway, it was clean enough for me to put me deposit on it

Hpoefully going back to get it this Thursday eve, if not, then it's gonna be a couple of weekends yet

 

now you can actually have your own car in your sig

 

Touché

 

Nice one thrush, get the pics and spec up when u get it well done chap!

 

SPec I've not got the entire spec list, but it looks to be a hybrid turbo of some kind (recipet jsut says for replacement turbo, but it deffo spins up quicker than a std T3, lot less lag), ported, polished and skimmed head (stg2 spec?) 195chip and -31, holding 11psi (was 15 but with std i/c he turned it down for heat reasons), Spax top adjustables, Scorpion s/s, AP clutch, Pipercross cone few other lil bits and bobs

He reckons at 11 it's 195/200bhp, I disagree and reckon it's more like 180/185 TBH, but change the i/c at some point and run at 14/15psi should crack the 200bhp mark I guess

Got some pics here somewhere....

 

 

If it's a good clean car then it's a good base point to work up from...

My advice is if you buy it, to remove quite a few of the trims and panels and attend to any rotton bits and body work immediately before anything truely sets in and you end up with a big repair job on your hands...then waxoyle it to death and put it back together....

 

It seems good and clean Daz.... Underside has had a couple of patches, no more than my 3i had tho, and that was solid enough. The rails where you jack it up to change a wheel have loads os waxoil on em already I noticed.

The only thing I didn't like TBH was the inner wing (battery side) flexes a bit if you push it in one place. Has a fair bit of sealer on it Don't feel rotton, jsut not as solid as the other side

 

Chances are that inner wing is fooked then......mine was exactly the same and has 2 massive cracks in it and was rotton at the base....

Same side as well.....

 

Check out the goon with a s1

Glad your gettin another s1 (in a couple of months, if you wanna sell it, im sure Ross will oblige )

Good show mon

 

Hard job to do Daz?

 

Outer wing off (don't damage the front panel too much) then cut out the old one out sit new inner and outer in place then line everything up before welding it in place. Seal it, prime it, paint it wax it etc....

Might find the A pillar might require some attention when you get the outer wing off...

It's not that straight forwards so get some advice or assistance of someone who knows how to do body work...

 

Another job for Rossco then

 

where is the car located thrush??

 

Bedford mate - apparently, right off J13 M1.....

MAP

 

oh right, just saw the middle picture and the sign on the building says Desborough which is very close (10mins) from me.

didn't know if i knew the car.

 

Welcome to the Series One Crew

 

Thrush, official PassionFord S1 greebo