leedsrhinos126

I recently lowered my Mk6 1.8TD van, fairly simple job but you will need the right tools and an ounce of knowledge to do the job right.

You will need basic tools in order to remove the rear axle from the van and plenty of penetrating oil. (WD40)
You will also need an angle grinder and a welder.




This is how your axle and leaf spring will sit before modification.
Yes my van is rusty but will soon be sorted.




First of all jack up the rear of the van and place on axle stands. Be careful and don't do what i did and go through the sill with the stand more work to do! Here for the stands would have to do as the sill were to weak.
Remove both rear wheels.




Remove the drums, they will require a few taps from a hammer and should then just slide off the shoes.


https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cf&oe=574CAF8E

Remove the handbrake cables from the shoes. This can be a little tricky with the hub in place but can be done. Sadly didn't get a proper pic of the cables.




You now have to remove the brake pipes from the wheel cylinders.




And again remove the pipe from the brake hoses. Remove the clip from the hose on the axle and hang the hose up out of the way. You can now remove the whole copper brake pipe in one piece in the same shape.




Here comes the fun bit if your using manual tools. I forgot to buy some WD40 before starting the job which proved to be a mistake!
Anyway undo the 4x bolts on each side to drop away all 4 U bolts and the 2 flat brackets.




Now you need to undo the bottom shock absorber bolt and push shock up out of the way.




Last of all in order to drop the whole axle out you need to under the rear leaf spring shackle bolt from the chassis rail. It's just 1 nut and bolt each side and the springs will simply swing the axle will drop down aswel so be careful not to drop it.

Almost forgot the load sensing valve. I think this is just a pin or clip that needs removing from the axle. No pic sorry. The valve arm will need shortening before fitting.




Axle out ready for some cutting. As you can see only simple tools need.








Here is the 2 brackets, one each side that needs cutting off with a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder.




Try to be neat as you can with the grinder but if you do grind a little to deep don't worry as you can just weld it up later.




I found this the best and easiest way to do the job. Only cut 1 bracket off the axle Clean up the area on the opposite side of the axle ready for welding. Use a flap disc on the grinder is the best thing to use to remove the rust.




Now you want to take that bracket you cut of and weld it on the opposite side of the bracket that is still in place. This give you a perfect reference point to exactly mirror the old brackets position. Tac in place and when you have the correct level position weld the whole bracket permanently in place and clean up the welds.





Should look like this.



Now you need to cut the old bracket off from this side and find the correct position on the other side of the axle. you don't have a bracket for reference on this side so a tape measure will be needed to weld the bracket in the correct position (fingers crossed). Again clean up the welds best you can. All done ready to fit hard bit done.




Ready for the refit now. best thing to do will be to jack up the axle into place then swing the leafs up into place and refit the shackle bolts on each side. You can now remove the jack and the axle will simply sit on top of the leafs.
See your newly welded on brackets now sit on top of the spring where as before the spring sat above the axle As you can see the axle is higher up which when on the ground means the body will be lower




Time to refit the U bolts, now the loop over the axle and all 8 bolts will be tightened from the underside!




This is how they should look.






Now you can bolt up the rear shock absorbers, reclip your brake hoses to the axle, fit both the rear brake pipes into place and put your handbrake cable into place. Refit the drums and bleed the rear brakes.

Couple of things to note is remember to shorten the load sensing valve bar to the axle and also the is a foam bump stop each side these will simply pop off and you need to cut them in half and pop them back into place.

Another thing to not is check the condition of each part you remove such as brake pipe/hoses, easier to change now while it's all apart.
Also GAZ apparently sell adjustable Gaz shocks for the rear which are recommended for lowered van but not necessary but your old shocks may bottom out over rough ground!

JOB DONE Drop the van on the ground to see how she looks then sit back and give yaself a pat on the back.


Here's mine before and after.




Before wow look at that arch gap




Just after i let the jack down. RESULT!
You will be looking at a good 100mm drop atleast!







Of course after lowering the rear you will want to lower the front. All i have done for now is remover the front struts and chopped 2 full coils of the front springs which brings the front down perfectly level.
I wouldn't recommend driving like this on the road but my van is just sat at the moment as it's just a project. Alternatively you can just buy normal car 60mm lowering springs which will also work nice.







Sweet Rolling on Mk5 Rs2000 alloys.







After a practice with the machine polisher oooosh.




End results are brilliant. Best thing for old vans, on it's arse looking sweet.

I hope this helps fellow Ford owners out, before i started the job i was scouring the web looking for info and pics or a how to guide but didn't find much so hopefully this will help out some novices. Any questions please ask

Cheers

Ryan

ossie cossie

i was thinking about doing this as well. good thread.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Well cool matey. It looks well on the wheels.

STeve

iTrader: (11)

nice work that, and agree on them mk5 rs2k wheels they look mustard

Tatmanfrankie

This is my escort that ive brought need bits and bobs doing but love it