I've been thinking of getting a machine polisher & heard good things about this kit.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...-kit-kits.html

Its to be used on an Imperial blue Escort Cosworth that has had paintwork in the past but I'd say the paint work is in good condition. I'm looking to improve the finish & try to get a mirror type finish & have bought a few products in the past that have really improved the finsh.

The list includes:
Various hand polishing pads.
Megs quick Clay.
PB EXP sealant.
PB Natty Blue paste.
Clear Kote Red Moose Glaza.
Clear Kote Vanilla Moose Wax.

What would people advise that will make use of the above ?

Thanks for any advise.

Chris.

 

T cut works well m8.
on mine i use blue T cut, and then turtle wax.

 

G220's are a dual action polisher mate, meaning it does not rotate one way, meaning it takes longer to work with. these are good for people who have not used a machine polisher before as it is very hard to burn through the laquer with, so ideal for a beginner.
I have a kestrel DAS-6 which is similar and a bit cheaper and basically does the same job, only thing with it is i dont think you get a good level of correction with as you would with a rotary polisher.
They bring the paint up nice and give a good shine but when it comes to damaged paint with swirls or light scratches i dont think they do much with them.
I peronally think they are good for putting polish on and minor correction.
For polish try Poorboys black hole which works really well on blue and dark cars.

 

Thanks for the replies, I'll have a good look at the paint work to see what needs doing.

 

Sorry, but it's simply not correct to say that a dual action machine is in anyway less capable than rotary. With the correct pad and polish for the job, they are every bit as capable of correcting even quite severe swirling, it just takes a little longer to do that's all - but it's not a race, just do it at your own pace.

That kit from the guys at polished bliss is a good one, and the Menzerna 203S is a superb and very versatile polish that can fulfill a lot of roles depending on the pad it's being used on (and it's also great and very capable of correction by hand on Ford paint for tight areas that you might not be able to get the machine pad into).

Having said that, I'd go with a twin polish set up of Menzerna PO85RD 3.02 Power Finish (formally called Intensive Polish) for the correction work, and then the PO85RD or RE Final Finish for the refining stage (if required).

 

Thanks for the feedback, I've always polished the car by hand & I'd like to see how much better the machine can do it & remove some minor marks on the paint at the same time. I'm not looking for anything to dramatic just something I can use & not worry about damaging the car.

The paintwork doesn't have swirls etc as I've always tried to be careful how it was cleaned.

 

So you can get as good correction from a DA, than you would with a rotary polisher?

 

i prefer DA all day long, and the results are just the same imo

 

Rotary is cheap and quick, a good DA is quite cheap and quite quick. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

 

got to agree with mark on this one..

the man knows his stuff as he helped me when i first started machine polishing.

 

Hi Chris, on Ford paint the intermediate kit we sell does work really well, and in your case, given the described condition of the paint, you will probably only need to use the supplied 203S polish with the light polishing pads (as opposed to the firmer light cut pads). You might also want to consider buying an extra Lake Country Glazing Pad, as you could then use the machine to apply a thin coat of Red Moose Glaze ahead of the Natty's; this will add an extra degree of gloss. The kits will be back in stock in the next 1-2 days, and the special offer price will be held until the end of the month.

 

Thanks for the info, I'll be intouch with my order