Just some insights after replacing the quadrant, pawl and spring kit on a 1988 mk4 XR3i Escort cab;

As suggested above, I removed the driver seat, which helps a lot. I also with the cab top open, as it gets really hot in there when working under the dashboard. Anyway, at least for the LHD mk4, there is no advantage in taking out the dashboard.

Further, at least on the LHD mk4 it appears you can drop the clutch pedal without touching the brake pedal. Just remove the the R clip, spring washer and shift left the clutch pedal with its quadrant and both red plastic guides

Then you can replace the quadrant in place and connect the clutch cable (easier to do with no pedal in there) - I used the 01387 Febi Bilstein kit that appears to be a mechanically identical to the original white quadrant with the Ford logo on it. The kit it is all black (black iso red plastic guides, a black pawl (identical to the Ford one) and a all black quadrant). The quadrant is reinforced all around the hole where the spring to the pedal is mounted. It is a widely available kit that I sourced for just 5,90Euro.

Frankly, the first nasty job is to fit the quadrant on the pedal shaft with the pawl in place because the small spring that ensure the ratchet effect of the pawl in pushing onto the quadrant. I released the pressure on the pawl by temporarily blocking the spring as to make it not pushing on the pawl. Any piece of metal to block the spring from pressing on the pawl that you can remove once the pedal is in place will do the job; And for those that do not remember how to assemble the pawl and its spring, see below the assembly. Left the original Ford, Right the Febi Bilstein copy.

And oh, yes, do not forget to mount the large spring that will later connect to the pedal on the quadrant before you mount the quadrant into the pedal. It does not fit in the reverse order

Finally, after you reconnected the clutch cable under the bonnet, you will have to reconnect the large spring going from the quadrant to the left side of the pedal. I unsuccessfully tried to use different type of electric wire to pull on the spring and guide it into the triangular hole on the side of the pedal; look for example below. I also tried to use tie wraps, which all have broken just before the spring matched the aperture in the pedal.



Finally, I successfully used a combination of the 2 hooks:



The large one I used to pull the spring far enough as to be able to temporarily block the spring onto the aperture (see picture below). You will need a relatively important force to be exercised for this so a large tool is ideal for this



Then I used the smaller hook, that is mainly not as thick as the large. Being rather thin, the smaller hook makes the final adjustments possible to let the spring lock into the aperture. Just in case, here are the precise sizes I have used (all metric centimeters);