Nice!
Got mine a few years back on a whim and just can't stop driving it.
A bit disappointed with standard power, but they have so much more to give, it's crazy not to tap in.
Here's what I did if it helps, as I started stage 3 and ended up stage 4.
BTW I will be letting all my stage 3 bits go soon and as I have been looked after by a few guys on here, if you want them I would let you have the whole lot for
*400!
Anyway, here's what I did:
First I tried stage 3 - *these are my stage 3 parts:
Collins CP340 software and USB and OBD cable including diagnostics - used once!
New Bosch Focus MK2 RS injectors - used for 150 miles! - still boxed with caps either end lol
Pro-Alloy intercooler - fits standard st225 piping - excellent quality intercooler
Mongoose 3" sport cat and large downpipe - the car already had 3" non res turbo back.
Focus MK2 RS plugs
This was really good - if you look at the dyno curve on Collins' site you can see how the power is held at the top end.I used the MSD340 actuator
But I had tasted the rush of crazy torque, so...
My stage 4 spec now:
Focus MK2 RS oil cooler
Focus MK2 RS clutch
Focus MK2 RS radiator
Heavy duty actuator
Forge recirc
KRS turbos k06 hybrid turbo & stainless braided oil feed
Airtec stage 4 intercooler with large boost pipes
Wayside stage 4 mapping
340 LPH fuel pump
Bosch 550 injectors
CAIS
block mod
Ali crank pulley
Airtec 3.5" downpipe
The brakes aren't bad - I have just added yellowstuff pads and slotted discs which made a big difference.
It is now just as I wanted it and it is so comfortable you can just cruise around listening to the burble or getting 40mpg on the motorway and it will pick up really fast in 6th even at 2700 - and it has been really reliable too.
One other bit of advice if you have't done it is to use epoxy to glue the bonnet lock in the contracted position, they never fail once you have done that.
I also did the block mod on mine and while you are there it is good on these to ensure the timing is properly aligned with the tool in the cam end - leave the sprockets free wheeling and line them up to the top of the timing cover while the other end is locked by the cam tool before tightening.
I did the clutch on my drive and bought the RS LUK clutch and CSC kit for about 180 (the st flywheel was in good condition) so the car is not expensive to mod, especially if you don't mind doing a bit yourself. It's well designed and good to work on.
A lot of the time it is easier to get parts from Volvo - for example the rod cap bolts were stupid expensive from Ford, but really cheap direct from Volvo.
Have fun!