Originally Posted by
zetaboostboy522bhp
That's cooking oil you daft cunt lol
Cheers Paul
on the label reads 10 w 40 semi synthetic motor oil , does that sound like cookikng oil to you, do you cook food in motor oil ?? you daft cunt
Originally Posted by
Cos500
Fastlife, get the car recovered to a garage that can fix your turbo oil feed pipe properly, get the oil changed before you run it as more than likely contains bits of your engine, it's more than likely damaged your engine but you'll find that out soon enough.
If it took you 10 days to do up a bolt you shouldn't be working on your own car, professionals have the gear and experience to sort things like that in 5 mins.
I went up there today (got bus) spent hours but got ti home no problem ! had to buy more clips at B&Q as ones I had kept spinning and not getting tighter.
drove it home, drives absolutely fine, no strange noises, no burning smell, nothing wrong at all ! In under 2 years the oil light has come on about 5 timers mainly different problems regarding this pipe, but every single time I have noticed right away and switched the engine off immediately like a second or 2 later and has been perfectly fine !! I'm lucky that I have noticed right away but not so that the light came on. same with water pipes, had about 10 times in almost 2 years leak/burst and caught all before disaster.
why change oil ? was low and I kept topping up with new oil while trying to fix it so all old oil will be out the system.
why should I not work on my own car ? Over the past 6 months my car has required basically a full suspension rebuild and brakes, glow plugs, radiator, e.t.c. and I have done all those repairs myself, no problems with any of the repairs I've carried out, no unusual noises, passed it's MOT e.t.c.
I have no training or qualifications in this industry of car mechanics, but I have self taught and learnt a lot and a lot of what is involved is common sense, I will certainly not quit doing repairs on my car, I'd rather not have to repair anything on it but if needs be I am more than willing to fix the car myself and capable of doing so.
btw, here is a short video of the bolt in question and why it took so long to do it.
Originally Posted by
155lee
Maybe were being a bit harsh,the guys only looking for help.
Fast life,did you try tightening the leaking jubilee clips?
Did they turn at all and if so by how much?
After you tightened them did they leak or not and if not is it possible there was no oil pumping through as it had poured out onto the road?
What size of head is on the jubilee clips,7mm hex or slotted for a flat screwdriver?
How could you tell which of the jubilees was leaking and what order did you tighten them in?
How much coolant was in the header tank and what temperature was it at?also how long ago did you top it up?
Last thing,did your flip flops have oil resistant soles?
yes, I went up there today on the bus, spent hours but finally did it, the clips were the type that require flat screwdriver, while tightening they were turning and before many of them even got tight they stripped the thread and just kept spinning, ended up going into B & Q and buying more, they cost a lot but were much better, drove car home 10 - 15 miles or so, drove absolutely fine, no unusual noises, no unusual smells of burning or anything, I will get the pipe replaced.
Originally Posted by
gcfcos
Hah hah quality. At first I thought shit no way this guys being serious and then like a good book it got better and better lol
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