View Single Post
Old Jun 22, 2015 | 09:58 PM
  #422  
markk's Avatar
markk
10K+ Poster!!
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 105
From: Lancs
Default

Originally Posted by IainRS1700T
Hi Folks,


Alot of head scratching concerned the drive shaft lengths. Following on from previous conversions (Rod Tarry's being the first) I had my drive shafts manufactured by Wilson (same co.) to the same dimensions, but as you can see the shorter side came up short and the longer side came up too long..



This is how short the short side was. It was a similar story but vv on the other side.

This was with the diff fully jigged up with everything properly square and in position. Mat used a temporary version of the intended mount of the beam (so ignore the thin off cut of steel):



And if he attempted to rely on the drive shaft length to position the diff, (by loosening off the diff mount bolts) this is what happened:



Clearly it knocked the diff way off line. After double checking and checking again against a spare beam we came to the conclusion that for whatever reason, the drive shaft lengths weren't right for our circumstances and they needed to go back to Wilson. It's most likely that our diff casing is different to the other diffs that had been used in this conversion. Nevertheless, Wilson were very helpful and remanufactured the driveshafts for me for just the cost of the labour, so hats off to those guys for helping me out.

As soon as the new shafts came back they fitted straight in with no hassle, and with everything lined up as it should be. Mat then cracked on with fabricating the proper beam mounts for the diff - on the top mating surface and also down underneath as well. There's a few potential spots to fabricate mounting points.



This pic shows the beam and diff mounted in position and you can see the top and side mounts that Mat fabricated from the beam. On this next one you can just about see the mounts tying in through the floor panel of the shell:



With the beam sorted Mat could then tackle the reinforcing of diff mount via the cage inside the car. I don't have to worry about any NVH niceities so using the cage in this way provides added security to the diff mounting. This is what we came up with:



Cheers
Iain
Hi Iain,

Just having a look through some of your old pics dating back to 2012 on your car, I still have a soft spot for the 3dr.

Found your using the Jag powerlok - Rod was no where near the first to use one, the idea in Rods came from my garage when a certain couple of people visited one night (another story)

This was probably the first conversion using the 4HU/4HA
Name:  jd20.jpg
Views: 360
Size:  62.2 KB
Name:  jd12.jpg
Views: 365
Size:  55.2 KB
Name:  jd10.jpg
Views: 379
Size:  59.9 KB
Name:  jd28.jpg
Views: 365
Size:  46.3 KB
Name:  jd30.jpg
Views: 360
Size:  54.4 KB
Name:  jagdiff05.jpg
Views: 397
Size:  55.4 KB
Name:  jagdiff01.jpg
Views: 366
Size:  52.5 KB

This was in my car in 1999, I can trace this diff in the same cradle back to 1984 when it was run in an RED 3dr, then bought by Neil Weardon for his 3dr rally car, then bought by the Squires brother in Stoke, then by me.

Note they always ran standard 7.5" 2wd shafts - I ran this diff on 10" wide slicks with 450ft/lb - dog box and the 3dr regularly did 3.9 0-60's

A bit of histroy for you there
Reply