my 2wd underbody resto "pics at national day"
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my 2wd underbody resto "pics at national day"
took my saph of the road to replace the rear bushes at the end of last year, finally got some enthusiasm back and got a bit carried away and decided to have a tidy up
before i started
beam dropped down
tow bar that previous owner had left like this, due to corroded bolts!
younger brother given the task of removing tow bar
started cleaning and rubbing down
after cleaning underneath i brush painted with red oxide, didnt have camera so no pics
gave floor 1 coat of hammerite smooth brushed on, then 2 more coats using spray cans as idont have a compressor in the garage, happy with how it come out.
painted gearbox, and refitted with new clutch
diff painted just got to fit bushes to beam then will be back in,
that brings us up to date, just swapped sender and filler neck on to my new tank (with swirl pot) tonight, ready to fit tommorow hopefuly
before i started
beam dropped down
tow bar that previous owner had left like this, due to corroded bolts!
younger brother given the task of removing tow bar
started cleaning and rubbing down
after cleaning underneath i brush painted with red oxide, didnt have camera so no pics
gave floor 1 coat of hammerite smooth brushed on, then 2 more coats using spray cans as idont have a compressor in the garage, happy with how it come out.
painted gearbox, and refitted with new clutch
diff painted just got to fit bushes to beam then will be back in,
that brings us up to date, just swapped sender and filler neck on to my new tank (with swirl pot) tonight, ready to fit tommorow hopefuly
Last edited by Nath2wd; 14-09-2009 at 09:45 PM.
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bit more done today
over the last few days ive painted the rear beam and trailing arms, then fitted my deflex bushes. The two dougnut bushes in the beam went in suprisingly easy, but the trailing arm ones kept popping back out as i was trying to press them in, this was because i had the metal guide in the bush whilst pressing them together (thanks steve for helping me out)
beam painted, decided against powder coating as im hoping to do a few track days in it when finished, and my fuel pipes are fucked so going to have to aeroquip, the extra money saved will go towards that.
also got new plates and bolts from ford (thanks dave)
all that was left was to fit arms to the beam, this was a nightmare and took a lot of grease and a very large hammer
beam all bolted up, going out in the morning to get diff in then need to sort out some aeroquip fuel lines. if any one has done the same recently can you tell me where you got it from please
beam painted, decided against powder coating as im hoping to do a few track days in it when finished, and my fuel pipes are fucked so going to have to aeroquip, the extra money saved will go towards that.
also got new plates and bolts from ford (thanks dave)
all that was left was to fit arms to the beam, this was a nightmare and took a lot of grease and a very large hammer
beam all bolted up, going out in the morning to get diff in then need to sort out some aeroquip fuel lines. if any one has done the same recently can you tell me where you got it from please
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#10
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looking good... excact engineering in totnes do all the aeroquip and connectors that you will need... think i got 8 meters for mine but depending how many connectors you want to use can work out real expensive.. will need to get a fitting braised onto the fuel rail for the inlet...
#12
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the line is ptfe lined and i think i got 8 meteres and was about 60 quid... the connectors were expensive some being 25 quid each but i used more than i needed so i could do away with the extra pipe running around the cradle.. i think you could do the lot for about 100.. ill dig out some receipts for the stuff.. ive got lots of pic but cant get into my photobucket account..
8 meters of -6
then if you have a look at their stock of connectors for that hose you should be able to make your own up...
the place my mate used a few weeks ago in heathfield did a good job on his rail ill find out the name of the place
real easy to do and looks a lot better than the std old stuff...
you wont wanna drive it after its all done now tho..
8 meters of -6
then if you have a look at their stock of connectors for that hose you should be able to make your own up...
the place my mate used a few weeks ago in heathfield did a good job on his rail ill find out the name of the place
real easy to do and looks a lot better than the std old stuff...
you wont wanna drive it after its all done now tho..
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the line is ptfe lined and i think i got 8 meteres and was about 60 quid... the connectors were expensive some being 25 quid each but i used more than i needed so i could do away with the extra pipe running around the cradle.. i think you could do the lot for about 100.. ill dig out some receipts for the stuff.. ive got lots of pic but cant get into my photobucket account..
8 meters of -6
then if you have a look at their stock of connectors for that hose you should be able to make your own up...
the place my mate used a few weeks ago in heathfield did a good job on his rail ill find out the name of the place
real easy to do and looks a lot better than the std old stuff...
you wont wanna drive it after its all done now tho..
8 meters of -6
then if you have a look at their stock of connectors for that hose you should be able to make your own up...
the place my mate used a few weeks ago in heathfield did a good job on his rail ill find out the name of the place
real easy to do and looks a lot better than the std old stuff...
you wont wanna drive it after its all done now tho..
ideal thanks mate, hopefully gunna do a couple of track days with steve and wayne when done, just have to keep it clean. have you had your bodywork done?
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not done yet doubt it ll be back till the new year now.. its just waiting for paint but all the rest is done... its done 4 miles this yea and about 20 more on steves trailer.. cant wait to drive it with all my new bits on... once wheels are refurbed ill get some proper tyres... no more sliding off roundabouts for me i think....
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your thread has been very helpful during my resto, lots of good advice and a top job, thanks
#24
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hello mate... this place that does the braising for the rail is in newton.. he cant remember the name but its on the little ind estate on the other side of the road to halfords in newton.. he said follow the road round and is the last unit on the left... only paid Ł5 to have it done.. also if you take the cradle with pump over to excact in totnes and your measurements for how much pipe you need they can make it up for you while you wait to save you chopping the stuff about..
kep the pics coming... wish i did one of these for mine now..
whats the spec of it now..
kep the pics coming... wish i did one of these for mine now..
whats the spec of it now..
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hello mate... this place that does the braising for the rail is in newton.. he cant remember the name but its on the little ind estate on the other side of the road to halfords in newton.. he said follow the road round and is the last unit on the left... only paid Ł5 to have it done.. also if you take the cradle with pump over to excact in totnes and your measurements for how much pipe you need they can make it up for you while you wait to save you chopping the stuff about..
kep the pics coming... wish i did one of these for mine now..
whats the spec of it now..
kep the pics coming... wish i did one of these for mine now..
whats the spec of it now..
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Looks good, always nice seeing the Cosworths getting this treatment.
Did you use Hammerite to spray over the brushed on hammerite? I found that hammerite tends to react with other paints.
Kirk
Did you use Hammerite to spray over the brushed on hammerite? I found that hammerite tends to react with other paints.
Kirk
#28
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makes it easy then... mine got ported head and low comp with turbo technics t38 .. cant remember how it drives either now its been so long.. a friends 4x4 was running t34 and greys on std engine and went real well.. . think for rwd i prefered mine as stge 3 to be honest... it is shit for grip now.. gonna get some grippy tyres and maybe adjustable beam in future... having rear arches rolled properly to fit some wider rears so this may help too...
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Shame my Saph ended up in bits on E-bay,would still have had it if shell was as good as yours.
PM if you get stuck with anything m8.
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thaks for comments guys, right i managed to get out to the garage tonight and it was absolutely freezing. First i bolted the diff back in which was nice and easy,
next was the fuel tank, swapped the sender, filler neck and breather over then fitted it up. The only problem i had was the new tank strap i brought was completely wrong, so i would oly recommend using a genuine ford one.
next was the fuel tank, swapped the sender, filler neck and breather over then fitted it up. The only problem i had was the new tank strap i brought was completely wrong, so i would oly recommend using a genuine ford one.
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thanks for all the comments chaps,
im going to auroquip the fuel lines as the origional ones are damaged, im going to get the rail modified with -6 connectors, do i need to do anything with the standard fuel regulator ie change it or mod it? any help would be appreciated
im going to auroquip the fuel lines as the origional ones are damaged, im going to get the rail modified with -6 connectors, do i need to do anything with the standard fuel regulator ie change it or mod it? any help would be appreciated
#36
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ive only had the -6 on the inlet to the rail then braided rubber to go between the rail outlet and the regulator using the clamps over the braid and then from the reg outlet to tank with clamp too... has been fine on mine for a few years now... i used p clips to hold the new lines under the car fitted to the original fuel pipe mounting points... keeps it nice and neat...
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Looking sexy under there Nath thats why Ive not seen you around for 18months you locked yourself in the garage.
Oh like you health and safety when using the grinder nice legs
Oh like you health and safety when using the grinder nice legs