BigD.

What Oil For My Sapphire 4x4??
My Saph is a fairly standard example with minimal miles done a year but could prob do with changing the oil.Looked at oils and know from previous experience with my jap stuff its a total mine field of choice.
So what oil do you guys recommend for a fairly standard 4x4 saph?
Cheers D

Rockhound

Good quality 10w-40 would be a good choice.

Paul_RS

iTrader: (4)

That would be a very bad choice, you need 15w50 or similar. 10w40 is too thin.

kosienutter

I use mobil 1 0W 40 on mine. 135000 miles no rebuild or smoke at all. And oil temp is at 85 degrees all the time. Good imo

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

Hope you don't use this shit? Otherweise, I feel sorry for your engine.

There's no quality 10W-40 around. I wouldn't put it even in my lawnmower.
A nice cosworth engine needs a quality full synth Mobil 1 oil. The best choice is 0W-40 or 5W-50. Or a good 10W-60 to silence the conscience.

tabetha

It's not just about the viscosity, though I'd use a 50 weight oil personally, or if used hard few miles a 60 weight oil, the issue with modern oils is the lack of(any real amount) ZDDP, a impressive anti scuff additive great for ohc engines, so just use a good quality fully synthetic oil.
I have mobil 1 10W60, as vastly better than the older mobil oils, and the grade I want.
I get mine from and recommend Matt Lewis 01922 692424.
tabetha

tabetha

Rubbish, das sint doch bloodsin!!
You can get 10W40 REDLINE, which is formed from shale oil deposits.
tabetha

kosienutter

[QUOTE=tabetha;I get mine from and recommend Matt Lewis 01922 692424.
tabetha[/QUOTE]

Same here and he does a great discount compared to say Halfords. 11 litres of mobil 1 0w 40 oil for 50 quid were as Halfords charge that for just 5 litres.

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

maybe with little exceptions but I meant it in this way. The higher the difference between cold and warm visco the better / more stable the visco index of an oil.

I use always the highest "difference"

use 5W-50 instead of 15W-50.

use 10W-60 instead of 20W-60.

It is maybe "thinner" at cold days but it is more stable when it warms up then for example a 20W-60 which is "thicker" at cold but (faster) to thin out warming up. Difficult to explain.

Rockhound

No good quality 10w-40 around? Thats probably the most stupid comment i have ever heard in here. The man says his engine is fairly standard, so a good quality 10w-40 would be a good choice considering price and characteristics. Obviously you don't know what youre talking about, so i see no reason to comment this topic further.

BigD.

Cheers guys, I'm no novice on tuning and I wondered if 10w40 would be fine since it's a low boost car, I run millers motorsport 10w60 or silkolene pro s 15w50 in my 200sx but it's running bigger go. So rather than start another argument lol what oil do you guys run?
Cheers Darren

langer

iTrader: (1)

I use valvoline 10/60 racing oil (recomended by pj motorsport) and never had any problems in 6/7 years, no smoke or rattles very good oil

Bloomers

iTrader: (1)

i've got silkoline pro s 10w50 in mine, seems fine

saph cos rob

iTrader: (11)

intersting thread this... ive used 15w 50 mobil 1 in mine but aparently its not availible anymore - matt lewis stocks the new 10w60 mobil 1 which is supposingly better, ive bought some so interested to see what its like

paddyrs

i have used 10w 40 wich is ok but i use 10w 50 now wich i think is better

BigD.

Who's 10w 50 do you use?

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Milllers 10/60

ajamesc

what total rubbish lol and how on earth is a 0w 40 better than a 10w 40 lol the 40 is the same and the 0 is far to thin a 40 is a little thin but if you have a fresh engine its fine and will not leak i have no leaks and have 2 bar of oil pressure at 850 rpm ford say it should have 1.8 bar! plus mobile one has been proved as being shit lol but people read to far into whats good and what isent in a road car any good quality oil is fine as your not going to get it hot enough for it to brake down! i use fully synth shell 10w 40 as its on tap at work so free but really i should use a 10w50

paddyrs

silkolene pro s or millers what ever one i can get

chrisa3

iTrader: (1)

If you changing your oil every couple of thousand miles a decent 10w40 semi synthetic is more than enough for road use IMO (that isnt any techinical knowledge or background, its just my experience of using it in my saff, and its not used a drop).

What did garages / owners use through the 80's and 90's ?? I dont think it would have been all these ester synthetics etc back then and the Yb managed perfectly fine. ( think ford RS deailers used 15w40 semi as standard)

Im not saying synthetics are no good, they obviously are better oils, and if your doing track days etc, then they would be a good idea.

Ive been using either Magnatec 10w40 or Mobil Super S 10w40 and its fine (as recommended by guy who prep'd my crank and block).

At Ł17 for 4 litres I can get three oil changes for less than 1 pot of Silkolene or Motul.

paddyrs

for a std engine yes but not for the bigger horse power cars imo

chrisa3

iTrader: (1)

Mines running MSD stage 1 so time will tell I guess. Its done around 2k miles so far and I check the level every time i go out and its not used a drop so far.

paddyrs

so your about 260 270 then id say your ok its more for pace of mined i think we use these oils mine is 375 bhp

chrisa3

iTrader: (1)

Ive got some silkolene 10w50 in the garage from my subaru days. I switched from 10w40 semi in my impreza and it started to use oil and was never the same. My local subaru indie said it was due to the synthetic glazing up the bores. As my cossie isnt using oil and no smoke so far, I just think if it aint broke leave it well alone

paddyrs

it will use a wee bit of oil there ment to it takes a while to unless you give it a good bit off stick mine has used 2.5lt of oil in 8000 miles its due a change now

tabetha

Did they also tell you it MAY not have detergent additives in like a road going oil ?
tabetha

tabetha

The 0W is not way too thin at all, and that is why in certain countries they use it all the time all year round, a 0W40 could be used perfectly safely, but is in this country unecessary.
Mobil 1 was slated and for very good reason, the highly publicised con job they did on the public put it as a super oil driving cars around a track constantly, ie ideal conditions for the oil, the newer formulas are very good oils.
Oils start breaking down around 130C, a EASY temperature to hit if things are not right, the thicker the oil to start with the thicker it is at any given temperature, a W40 oil is around 16cST at 40C, a W50 oil is 19cST at the same temp.
If I had free oil like you and it was a W40 I'd also use it, unless it started breaking down, like my castrol RS used to do!!
tabetha

tabetha

Semi synths are a waste of space, as soon as the oil gets a good roasting most of the synth additive are no longer there and working.
Changing oil every 2 thousand miles is total rubbish, unless it's a dedicated race oil, it may very well not have a detergant package in the oil, so all the contaminants remain in the oil wreaking havoc.
Fully synthetics are vastly better by a mile, especially where the base stock is shale.
I'm actually using semi myself at the moment, because I WANT wear to occur so the rings bed in correctly, which they've done nicely.
tabetha

tabetha

Well he was talking out of his arse then, to put it simply, FULLY SYNTHETIC are used from NEW in certain cars, ie proper performance cars a engine will break in perfectly on a modern oil even a fully synthetic, the ONLY reason I say use a mineral oil for first miles is cost.
Glazed bores occur when driven too gently when new, by about 100 miles I'm at 5000rpm no load but the old timer way of treating it gentle doesn't work with modern oils being far superior to older oils.
Bore glazing occurs ONLY due to light loading during bedding in, the cylinders are honed with a cross hatch pattern, each sweep or score being at 22 degrees to the horizontal, this is to hold oil to lubricate the rings.
In older times when cross hatch honing was not used the engine in microscopic detail had peaks and troughs the peaks of these had to be ground down by the piston to form a "plateau", this "plateau" is machined in on new engines/builds via cross hatch honing, but when treated way too gently all the time.
The fuel and by products of combustion act to form a varnish that coats the bores, most of this occurs when the engine is cold the condensation of combustion products onto cold bore walls being the issue forming the glaze.
Some makers actually warn of this "easy use" when breaking in, esp in extended cold idle, such as saab, lister petter, cummins, perkins, man etc.
Bore glazing is very different from bore polishing, but that's not the issue here.
tabetha

tabetha

There's no "meant to", oil will naturally bypass the sleeve bearings in the turbo under certain conditions, I haven't used a drop in 1000 miles on anew engine, due to it having a better finish than originally, and better oil.
tabetha

tabetha

Just my opinion, using "race" oils on the road needs to be done with extreme care, they may not have detergent packages present in the oil, in which case don't use them for the road, unless you're changing them after every month ?
Viscosity is a big issue, a 0W40 or a 10W40 is fine, to use rather than a 10W60 for example, it is just at the same given temperature it is thinner, and may use some/more oil, swapping to a 50 weight oil or 60 weight may help this.
Personally I used a fully synthetic for all apart from the last 25-30,000 miles, due to the rate it was using it, I then swapped to a comma 20W50 mineral, but eventually the inevitable happened and the oil rings let go big time using 1L for 15 miles!!
Compression was perfect, emissions were perfect whilst idling.
I change my oil on fully synthetic every 12,000 miles, on the last miles with mineral I changed it every 3,000 miles.
My engine did 200,973 miles on the original bottom end, head/turbo were done around 150,000 miles and going strong still.
The crank did NOT even need a polish and is still STD size shells, mains and big ends, even the original thrusts are re used, original cams, rods, everything apart from pistons which are now first over size.
I also did with EVERY oil change a engine flush, I actually put this in the car before I drove the 130 miles home after buying it, then changed next day.
tabetha

BigErn

Ive always just chucked in 10 40 semi synthetic in all my Cossie engines and never once had any mechanical failure due to the oil Ive used...... Fair enough if its on a full blown race car then use something special but on a road car theres no need IME.

paddyrs

they used oil when new thats all i know . i can go 1000 miles with out usen any but do 1000 miles driven hard and it uses a bit

chrisa3

iTrader: (1)

I love your outlook on this forum. You come on here and slate just about every post on every topic. Semi synthetic is a waste of space, yet its still made by major oil companys and used by major car manufacturers.

You say changing you oil every 2000 miles is a load of rubish, when its dirty oil that causes damage to bearings etc. Is it not logical to keep it clean. When doing limited miles in the cossie, 2-3k a year, is once a year service too much.??

You seem knowledgable about oil products, but it must be from stuff you have read, or is the professional knowledge your sharing with us??

My bottom end was prepd by a local engine builder who has been building YBs for decades for RS owners, hes a reputable source of advice within the RS owners club, and if he says from his experience to put a 10w40 semi in the car then thats what im gonna do.

The oil i use meets the same spec API SL / A3/B4 as the synthetics you talk about. So they have to pass a certain quality to gain this status. Yes they might not put up with the heat Synthetics do, but I dont go on track days and its fine for what i need.

ajamesc

0w is to thin for an old pinto in the winter when its cold (0w is how thick it is when cold!) That is like water! im talking about mobil 1 being shit as in the tests m.a.d did with rods car (i say shit very losely lol in a normal road car it will no doubt be good oil) but with the heat rods car produced on a top speed run it was quite poor oil! as for hitting 130c i have never hit more than 90 in my car with 500/500

BigD.

Thats Cleared it up for me then lol lol

Cosworth Lad

Iv used mobil 1 15/50 in mine iv had her coming on 7 years now lol

Cossie92

Which is better, synthetic or fully synthetic? I have 300 bhp 4wd Saph (100k miles) and pretty much the good oils that are available here is 10W-60 synthetic Valvoline VR1 Racing and 10W-60 fully synthetic Castrol Edge FST. Which one would you pick?

Danny555

Ford recommends 5w 40 fully. I use shell and seems to be ok.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Fuchs titan it used to be called silkolone is what i use.Im sure the grade is 10/50