FULLY passed the MOT!!
03-06-2011, 07:00 AM
#1
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FULLY passed the MOT!!
I took my cossie for a mot yesterday, with it's new engine/bits and hydraulic clutch conversion, what a nice drive been off the road 8 months, only fail point was sticky osf caliper, which I was well impressed with tbh.
The difference with hydraulic seriously has to be felt to be believed, I was on my new Alcon 6 paddle plate and Alcon cover so that needed getting used to, the distance between just starting to grip and fully engaged is so small, add to this a lighter flywheel and it was stall city to start with, but soon got used to it, can make 100% smooth progress now, after getting rolling the lighter flywheel can be felt BIG time, even though not given any stick yet, and it running lean there is a HUGE difference from the lighter flywheel.
Idle is 100% rock steady, that's on greys, but only idling at 0.53% CO and 88PPM, I seriously forgot until driving it that it had a lighter flywheel so good was the idle, when held on the throttle, it's too lean to get higher idle from bypass screw so held on throttle to move it into next speed site adding more fuel.
The clutch takes some getting used to for sure, and need to slip the clutch in over a longer period using about 2K rpm, instead of 1500 or so, so would defo recommend lightening f/wheel.
Oil pressure good, idle around 35psi, above 2500 pressure was 55-60 oil temp good held around 80C all the time with stated sandwich and 13 row oil cooler on top of the radiator, works perfect.
tabetha
The difference with hydraulic seriously has to be felt to be believed, I was on my new Alcon 6 paddle plate and Alcon cover so that needed getting used to, the distance between just starting to grip and fully engaged is so small, add to this a lighter flywheel and it was stall city to start with, but soon got used to it, can make 100% smooth progress now, after getting rolling the lighter flywheel can be felt BIG time, even though not given any stick yet, and it running lean there is a HUGE difference from the lighter flywheel.
Idle is 100% rock steady, that's on greys, but only idling at 0.53% CO and 88PPM, I seriously forgot until driving it that it had a lighter flywheel so good was the idle, when held on the throttle, it's too lean to get higher idle from bypass screw so held on throttle to move it into next speed site adding more fuel.
The clutch takes some getting used to for sure, and need to slip the clutch in over a longer period using about 2K rpm, instead of 1500 or so, so would defo recommend lightening f/wheel.
Oil pressure good, idle around 35psi, above 2500 pressure was 55-60 oil temp good held around 80C all the time with stated sandwich and 13 row oil cooler on top of the radiator, works perfect.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 10-06-2011 at 06:04 PM.
03-06-2011, 08:36 AM
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07-06-2011, 05:01 PM
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It was actually the inboard PAD on the o/s caliper that was jammed, enough rust had built up on the edge to jam it, new discs and pads went on today, only greenstuff, only cost £20(new, long story!!), going back for re-mot thursday.
These brakes are just temporary though as have my nice new 17's and tarox 6 pots/330mm to go on.
tabetha
These brakes are just temporary though as have my nice new 17's and tarox 6 pots/330mm to go on.
tabetha
07-06-2011, 05:03 PM
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07-06-2011, 05:04 PM
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07-06-2011, 05:09 PM
#12
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Bog std pinto pump, from randalls, same ones they use on their race pintos, they inspect/take apart every pump and reject as much as 50%, so you know the one you get is good, £24 of your wedge will get you one, the one that came out was a "burman" which is oe fitment, was scored badly.
Oil pressure is 35 psi@80C on 10W40 oil, 950rpm, 60 psi@80C above 2000rpm, just on mineral 10W40 for first 500 miles.
tabetha
Oil pressure is 35 psi@80C on 10W40 oil, 950rpm, 60 psi@80C above 2000rpm, just on mineral 10W40 for first 500 miles.
tabetha
07-06-2011, 05:10 PM
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07-06-2011, 05:12 PM
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07-06-2011, 05:28 PM
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I found the brake issue was down to a jammed pad in the caliper, so went up Norwich sunday and managed to blag some greenstuff pads new for £20, were labelled as QH, despite being in EBC box, today after I went up city again and got me discs I went to put them on the car, managed to snap a copper brake pipe, get rusty rust in me eye, walloped my thumb with a hammer when I missed the barsteward o/s disc that had some weird kind of attraction to the hub.
In the end as I needed to exert pressure from two points 180 degrees opposite each other, I dug a bit of flat solid mile steel bar out me metal bits box, then wound the top caliper bolt in to contact the bar, this pressed on the disc and I whacked it with a clubby 180 degrees opposite, had to put bar back in twice but did the job, used my STP brake cleaner spray to clean degrease before greasing up etc, STP can would not shut off just kept dribbling, so after around 1 hour had emptied itself!!
Managed to snap the n/s brake pipe but me mate richie has a pukka SYKES P flaring kit so made me a pipe up, he was doing his 2L JPS capri at the time.
Yesterday went to get me running in map done, all went well, and for £40 you can hardly moan, although DW was taking the piss as usual ha ha!!, got it rebooked for 22 full power map around 350-360.
I didn't bother with the idle speed control valve, in fact it is blocked up with a bit of tube welded in there, so now just acts as a plug/bung, I have a KA iscv to go on later when I've made up the mountings for it.
Went and put me new back wheels on, also the front, but when I got in the car it went down a bit(fat shit!!), so need to raise it on the coilys about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" or so as running 225/45x17, went to adjust coilys no joy said no way they did, so we're having a battle later about this, need me new wheels on so got enough room for me new brakes.
All in all quite good, managed to dislocate my left knee only twice whilst doing this, at least it pops back in easy!!
tabetha
In the end as I needed to exert pressure from two points 180 degrees opposite each other, I dug a bit of flat solid mile steel bar out me metal bits box, then wound the top caliper bolt in to contact the bar, this pressed on the disc and I whacked it with a clubby 180 degrees opposite, had to put bar back in twice but did the job, used my STP brake cleaner spray to clean degrease before greasing up etc, STP can would not shut off just kept dribbling, so after around 1 hour had emptied itself!!
Managed to snap the n/s brake pipe but me mate richie has a pukka SYKES P flaring kit so made me a pipe up, he was doing his 2L JPS capri at the time.
Yesterday went to get me running in map done, all went well, and for £40 you can hardly moan, although DW was taking the piss as usual ha ha!!, got it rebooked for 22 full power map around 350-360.
I didn't bother with the idle speed control valve, in fact it is blocked up with a bit of tube welded in there, so now just acts as a plug/bung, I have a KA iscv to go on later when I've made up the mountings for it.
Went and put me new back wheels on, also the front, but when I got in the car it went down a bit(fat shit!!), so need to raise it on the coilys about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" or so as running 225/45x17, went to adjust coilys no joy said no way they did, so we're having a battle later about this, need me new wheels on so got enough room for me new brakes.
All in all quite good, managed to dislocate my left knee only twice whilst doing this, at least it pops back in easy!!
tabetha
07-06-2011, 06:18 PM
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08-06-2011, 02:21 PM
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I'm older and therefore more senile, that's my excuse, it's the best I can come up with.
I was rather pissed off with myself, brakes felt fine didn't pull or anything that I noticed, but I should have looked at them, not like I didn't have time.
I was amazed it failed on just that, I've been tinkering this morning, put in a rear sunblind, two seperate ones in the same roller bit, to keep some heat out in the summer, and even hoovered it out, which is most unlike me.
tabetha
I was rather pissed off with myself, brakes felt fine didn't pull or anything that I noticed, but I should have looked at them, not like I didn't have time.
I was amazed it failed on just that, I've been tinkering this morning, put in a rear sunblind, two seperate ones in the same roller bit, to keep some heat out in the summer, and even hoovered it out, which is most unlike me.
tabetha
10-06-2011, 06:13 PM
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Car passed MOT yesterday, done around 230-240 miles on new engine now, so dropping oil in the morning, fixing the horn that's now decided to stop working, though the switch is ok, I was fiddling around the area of the horn so may have dislodged a wire without noticing.
No advisories, other than "get a proper car" from the garage owner ha ha!!
Engine not missed a beat, used no oil, doing between 28-32mpg quick calc so well pleased, a lot more pleased than the cost of topping up today £65!! ow that hurt, but no petrol on the floor of the garage now that I made a new tank breather.
Getting used to the new noises from the other cars I've been driving, noticing wind noise from sunroof that I don't remember.
Took sat nav out to see how far speedo was out with 225/45x17 instead of the 205/50x15, and it's spot on certainly up to legal speeds, pure luck but that is going to change when I swap to a 3.9 diff.
Still got coilys to sort(seized) so I can lift front to clear tyres so I can fit my front wheels.
tabetha
No advisories, other than "get a proper car" from the garage owner ha ha!!
Engine not missed a beat, used no oil, doing between 28-32mpg quick calc so well pleased, a lot more pleased than the cost of topping up today £65!! ow that hurt, but no petrol on the floor of the garage now that I made a new tank breather.
Getting used to the new noises from the other cars I've been driving, noticing wind noise from sunroof that I don't remember.
Took sat nav out to see how far speedo was out with 225/45x17 instead of the 205/50x15, and it's spot on certainly up to legal speeds, pure luck but that is going to change when I swap to a 3.9 diff.
Still got coilys to sort(seized) so I can lift front to clear tyres so I can fit my front wheels.
tabetha
13-06-2011, 03:45 PM
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Done around 350 miles now, changed oil/filter on saturday, not missed a beat, just have tio adjust the fan switch settings in the ecu, currently it's on at 95C off at 92C, but with 88C stat it's on overtime, so will reset to on 98C off 95C.
Gearbox is just so much better with new oil in, annoying having the usual twerps sat up me rs and can't give it a bootful yet as not fully mapped.
Hydraulic clutch is worth it's weight in gold, even with alcon 6 paddle plate and alcon cover the pedal is still only around 1/3 the weight it was before.
tabetha
Gearbox is just so much better with new oil in, annoying having the usual twerps sat up me rs and can't give it a bootful yet as not fully mapped.
Hydraulic clutch is worth it's weight in gold, even with alcon 6 paddle plate and alcon cover the pedal is still only around 1/3 the weight it was before.
tabetha
15-06-2011, 06:55 PM
#30
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Got some more miles on it now, each day the engine seems more eager, as in loosening up a bit more, the off boost driving with the lighter flywheel is totally transformed, behind tractors(lots, I live in Norfolk!!) doing 30mph in 4th gear it just gets up and goes now, even though it is now on 225/45x17 tyres so higher geared.
The hydraulic clutch has taken some getting used to, as you can hardly feel any pedal pressure under your foot, I thought a few times that it had a seal failure as can't believe how little pressure it takes.
Topped the diff fluid up today, got a bad leak from d/shaft so that's nice and quiet again, but bent/destroyed a spanner getting plug undone, jesus don't know why I did it that tight.
Ordered a new wax stat for the sandwich block, a 92-104C one, as present stat is keeping it a little to cool, keeping the 88C thermostat in, just flushing through and putting anti freeze in, them copper heater matrix before winter.
Not used a single drop of engine oil 10W40 mineral, but does have a slight leak from ps rack, ps steering tank doesn't even get warm, when I rebuild the rack I will refill with dexron 6, no misting/oil around tank filler at all not a drop, so coolers working well, mines in the return line.
tabetha
The hydraulic clutch has taken some getting used to, as you can hardly feel any pedal pressure under your foot, I thought a few times that it had a seal failure as can't believe how little pressure it takes.
Topped the diff fluid up today, got a bad leak from d/shaft so that's nice and quiet again, but bent/destroyed a spanner getting plug undone, jesus don't know why I did it that tight.
Ordered a new wax stat for the sandwich block, a 92-104C one, as present stat is keeping it a little to cool, keeping the 88C thermostat in, just flushing through and putting anti freeze in, them copper heater matrix before winter.
Not used a single drop of engine oil 10W40 mineral, but does have a slight leak from ps rack, ps steering tank doesn't even get warm, when I rebuild the rack I will refill with dexron 6, no misting/oil around tank filler at all not a drop, so coolers working well, mines in the return line.
tabetha
15-06-2011, 08:18 PM
#32
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I'm just using mobil1 10W60 for now, will likely swap to Sunocco racing 20W50 at about 6 K miles.
Can you pm me your addy, we are going to come over sunday late morning, is there any where to park around your pad ?
How is your cossie coming along ?
tabetha
Can you pm me your addy, we are going to come over sunday late morning, is there any where to park around your pad ?
How is your cossie coming along ?
tabetha
16-06-2011, 12:05 PM
#33
Yes Chris plenty of room you can park on the driveway as mine isnt about at mo , I,ve still got a fair bit to do but the engine will be ready in a fortnight or so maybe earlier .New rings and bearings shall be ordered very soon which is all thats left engine wise . Unfortunately i seem to own the worst affected n/s rear arch/door shut (hinge section)saph i,ve ever seen . I must of looked at 60-70 sierra,s mines the worst so far lol so i,m gonna have this done along with a new front turret section as the tin worm has worked its way here aswell . Drastic but i cant be doing with messing about chasing rust tbh and have some good contacts do the work correctly . I,ll PM my address but i,ll hopefully be able to go to the unit i work from , few cars to see plus a friends Noble thats getting modified nicely
16-06-2011, 05:26 PM
#35
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Yes my DIY one, a 100% perfectly working one, worth it's weight in gold imo.
I had to modify my clutch pedal anyway as my left leg is around 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" shorter than my right, and being long body short leg couldn't easily push the pedal all the way it needed, so it's hydraulic with adjustable height for the pedal AND adjustable stroke, ie it can be set to short stroke or long stroke, as the pivot point on the pedal is movable.
Fitted my new IK27 plugs today, noticed immediate difference first turn of the key, with better idling from cold, I have no iscv, and engine was just happier, and more eager, gapped to 0.6mm.
tabetha
I had to modify my clutch pedal anyway as my left leg is around 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" shorter than my right, and being long body short leg couldn't easily push the pedal all the way it needed, so it's hydraulic with adjustable height for the pedal AND adjustable stroke, ie it can be set to short stroke or long stroke, as the pivot point on the pedal is movable.
Fitted my new IK27 plugs today, noticed immediate difference first turn of the key, with better idling from cold, I have no iscv, and engine was just happier, and more eager, gapped to 0.6mm.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 16-06-2011 at 05:44 PM.
17-06-2011, 08:02 AM
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17-06-2011, 09:48 AM
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17-06-2011, 09:51 AM
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I've had many IK fail when setting my soft and hard cut limiters too low for noise, they certainly don't like a soaking and don't recover fully, not sure how the 071 would fare as never tried with these.
tabetha
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