Shattered Con Rod...
#1
Shattered Con Rod...
I'll let the pictures do the talking...
Was driving the car, brought it on boost "full throttle" in 4th after cruising and it started to come on boost and then just cut out... No bang, no drama. It had slightly mis-fired earlier on the journey, i thought but im not 100% sure. Left a small dent and split in the sump. So i pulled the engine apart to find that little lot!
Was driving the car, brought it on boost "full throttle" in 4th after cruising and it started to come on boost and then just cut out... No bang, no drama. It had slightly mis-fired earlier on the journey, i thought but im not 100% sure. Left a small dent and split in the sump. So i pulled the engine apart to find that little lot!
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#8
Piston contacted the head and bent a valve, pulled a valve guide out and left a slight mark. All repairable, luckily i run a turbo pre-filter and that caught afew bits but tbh once i died i didnt try starting it etc...
Bottom on the piston is completely broken up too! I was gonna salvage the oil pump from the block but i guess thats picked up alot of the bits
Bottom on the piston is completely broken up too! I was gonna salvage the oil pump from the block but i guess thats picked up alot of the bits
#10
Pick-up P100 Power!
iTrader: (2)
Piston contacted the head and bent a valve, pulled a valve guide out and left a slight mark. All repairable, luckily i run a turbo pre-filter and that caught afew bits but tbh once i died i didnt try starting it etc...
Bottom on the piston is completely broken up too! I was gonna salvage the oil pump from the block but i guess thats picked up alot of the bits
Bottom on the piston is completely broken up too! I was gonna salvage the oil pump from the block but i guess thats picked up alot of the bits
#13
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Almost looks like the piston heated up alot and not enough piston to wall clearance left.
Piston starts to sieze in the bore and then piston breaks in two - lets go and destroys the rod as it bangs around.
If the connecting rod broke first the piston would be much more intact.
Do any of the cylinder walls show scuffing?
Piston starts to sieze in the bore and then piston breaks in two - lets go and destroys the rod as it bangs around.
If the connecting rod broke first the piston would be much more intact.
Do any of the cylinder walls show scuffing?
#18
cossie fan (unluckerly)
Rod went in my yb! Chucked the gudgeon out the sump lol I've not striped the bottom end yet but the head has been removed and there's no sign of the piston having got hot and picked up or started to melt so I'm guessing big or small end fault in mine
#19
Advanced PassionFord User
#21
No, det... I had been out with det cans the night before and it was all clear and i'd just filled up with higher octane fuel, so ive kinda ruled that out... Piston crowns are mint and unmarked too!
Piston getting hot, hmm sounds possible. Id just solved the running hot issues tho?
Head is salvagable so i'm thinking 1.9cvh...?
Piston getting hot, hmm sounds possible. Id just solved the running hot issues tho?
Head is salvagable so i'm thinking 1.9cvh...?
#22
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (1)
.
Ah that's a shit, what a mess, My mate Laren has an Orion turbo that was having heat issues, he took your advice on the choice of rad and it seams to have solved the issue.
As for thinking about going 1.9cvh, have you thought about an 1.8 cvh, I have a Ferriday engineer one, wicked engine despite everyone saying the 1.8's are rubbish. From what I research they are basically the same block as the 1.9 but with smaller bores equalling thicker bore walls (not gospel). Mike at Ferriday is a very helpful man and has loads of advice.
Ginger
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Ah that's a shit, what a mess, My mate Laren has an Orion turbo that was having heat issues, he took your advice on the choice of rad and it seams to have solved the issue.
As for thinking about going 1.9cvh, have you thought about an 1.8 cvh, I have a Ferriday engineer one, wicked engine despite everyone saying the 1.8's are rubbish. From what I research they are basically the same block as the 1.9 but with smaller bores equalling thicker bore walls (not gospel). Mike at Ferriday is a very helpful man and has loads of advice.
Ginger
.
Last edited by GINGExR2 T; 21-03-2014 at 11:31 AM.
#23
PassionFord Post Troll
Feel ya pain mate. I had a rod go in my fezz turbo but was a great excuse to go forged bottom end
You were only mapping it the other week wernt ya ? I dont want to slag your mapping skills off or knowledge but.............................
You were only mapping it the other week wernt ya ? I dont want to slag your mapping skills off or knowledge but.............................
#24
Thanks Ben... Yeh i was but i dont think mapping is to blame for a conrod breaking or a rod bolt snapping...So i wont slag your knowledge either! Unless youre implying i mapped it to produce too much power
Both rod bolts have broken their heads off, but i dont know if they were the cause or the result of the rod breaking.
Its def onwards and upwards from here... Either a forged 1600cc or a us tall block. Dont really want to mess about with a zetec yet tbh!
Both rod bolts have broken their heads off, but i dont know if they were the cause or the result of the rod breaking.
Its def onwards and upwards from here... Either a forged 1600cc or a us tall block. Dont really want to mess about with a zetec yet tbh!
#29
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Glad to hear that you will stick with a CVH!
If you decided to switch engine to a 16 valve, there are options that are far, far better than a zetec. A ported cvh head outflows a standard zetec head. One can certainly make big power zetecs, but they cost $$$ too - dry sump, better cylinder head (st170), steel rods, etc... and then you need to think about a gearbox change.
The newer duratec 16 valve engines are a far better starting point than the old zetec (nearly same block as old cvh).
If you decided to switch engine to a 16 valve, there are options that are far, far better than a zetec. A ported cvh head outflows a standard zetec head. One can certainly make big power zetecs, but they cost $$$ too - dry sump, better cylinder head (st170), steel rods, etc... and then you need to think about a gearbox change.
The newer duratec 16 valve engines are a far better starting point than the old zetec (nearly same block as old cvh).
#31
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
was gonna ask same thing, did it have arp's on? looks like the increase power/loads has seen the std rod bolts off and erm mullered it proper.
#34
Advanced PassionFord User
Has the engine been over rev'd previously or have you been sitting on the rev limiter too much? Exhaust valve bent?
Last edited by SiZT; 24-03-2014 at 12:46 PM.
#35
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
The top part of the piston looks like heavy scuffing with the cylinder wall.
This scuffing would not happen after the piston broke at the pin boss.
Engines that have connecting rod failure (or bolt failure)have the piston and half of the rod on one end, and the bottom half of the rod thrashing around.
With a piston pin pulled from the top half of the piston it indicates piston to cylinder wall seizing.
This can happen with any type of engine - if piston becomes too hot and not enough clearance to cylinder walls. Not uncommon with turbocharged deals.
This scuffing would not happen after the piston broke at the pin boss.
Engines that have connecting rod failure (or bolt failure)have the piston and half of the rod on one end, and the bottom half of the rod thrashing around.
With a piston pin pulled from the top half of the piston it indicates piston to cylinder wall seizing.
This can happen with any type of engine - if piston becomes too hot and not enough clearance to cylinder walls. Not uncommon with turbocharged deals.
#36
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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The top part of the piston looks like heavy scuffing with the cylinder wall.
This scuffing would not happen after the piston broke at the pin boss.
Engines that have connecting rod failure (or bolt failure)have the piston and half of the rod on one end, and the bottom half of the rod thrashing around.
With a piston pin pulled from the top half of the piston it indicates piston to cylinder wall seizing.
This can happen with any type of engine - if piston becomes too hot and not enough clearance to cylinder walls. Not uncommon with turbocharged deals.
This scuffing would not happen after the piston broke at the pin boss.
Engines that have connecting rod failure (or bolt failure)have the piston and half of the rod on one end, and the bottom half of the rod thrashing around.
With a piston pin pulled from the top half of the piston it indicates piston to cylinder wall seizing.
This can happen with any type of engine - if piston becomes too hot and not enough clearance to cylinder walls. Not uncommon with turbocharged deals.
#37
Perry, i understand what you are saying but what would cause the rod to then break up so much and indeed strip the bolt heads off?
Engine was from an unknown car, cost me £50 a couple years back and i was pushing 20psi with quite a good spec of add on's through it, so im not suprised it broke! Rev limit 6400rpm and i rarely hit it, talking once or twice ever! I change around 6k!
Engine was from an unknown car, cost me £50 a couple years back and i was pushing 20psi with quite a good spec of add on's through it, so im not suprised it broke! Rev limit 6400rpm and i rarely hit it, talking once or twice ever! I change around 6k!
#38
Balls Deep!
iTrader: (4)
For it to shatter rather than bend and snap (too much power, piston seizing) surely it must have been 'hit' so to speak? I think snapped bolts is a good shout and then the crank journal effectively 'hit' the bottom of the rod sending a nice shock wave through it, or bolts snapped and combustion pressure forced it down and it hit the crank?
Perry, this is an old engine so if anything the piston to bore clearance would be way bigger than it should be, would had to of expanded a lot!
Perry, this is an old engine so if anything the piston to bore clearance would be way bigger than it should be, would had to of expanded a lot!
Last edited by Karlos G; 25-03-2014 at 06:47 PM.
#40
PassionFord Post Troll