jonfoc

If anyone needs a 0 mileage st170 engine let me know. It's never been fitted in a car just a bit of dyne time.

1983redrst

What sort of price were you thinking is it complete?

3drpete

iTrader: (1)

Inboxes you bud

colins2

why can't you use the st170 head.

Cheers

asha1

I think it's because of the VVT.

massivewangers

iTrader: (1)

I think it's easier to use the non-VVT head from a mapping point of view and for the inlet etc.

Has anyone worked out what the compression ratio would be with the FRS head gasket and ST170 head?

colins2

I just ask as it's getting hard to find a good blacktop since the stock car opend up to inc 2.0 they seam to be a bit more scarce, I've never looked at the st170 cams so don't know if pulleys could be fitted to do a VVT delete nor do I know what the difference in the combustion chamber cc is between the st and a blacktop but someone may know this and share the information here

colins2

You can do a VVT delete but the combustion cc on the st170 head is lower 42cc compared to 47.7 blacktop and 48 RS so increasing the cr don't know what it would increase to need calculate.

massivewangers

iTrader: (1)

Is a VVT delete necessary? Lots of aftermarket ECUs should be capable of running it these days shouldn't they?

The CR is a tougher problem though.

colins2

yeh some modern can run it think it has to be proper PWM not just switched and i think using the st170 head the cr would be around 9.8.1? im no expert tho correct me if im wrong.

HirenRS

if you disconnect the solenoid it wont activate holding the cam in whatever position you set it at, i am planning to do this build on my mk3 this is a great guide! i have many questions for you! i have recently got my hands on a low mileage st170 bottom end i hope to clear up questions like compression ratio etc once i get my self in position to start measuring

gixer_1000

iTrader: (1)

with regard to compression ratios.
I can only find 1.4mm gaskets online.
What would the c/r be if this was used instead of the 1.8mm h/gasket that is recommended?

Dennis_Wiseman

iTrader: (1)

Nearly finished my Zetec Turbo build but have a problem.

The car starts fine but is kicking out plumes of black smoke. When the map sensor is connected (think its a 3 bar) it still kicks out the same amount of black smoke but the engine will not rev up (just stays at idle) - does anyone have any idea's ? Its running FRST efi inlet on OFAB with pre bought MSD chip pretty much suited to my mods

studabear

Fuel pressure correct?

Dennis_Wiseman

iTrader: (1)

I changed the map sensor to a standard FRST one and it appears to have solved the smoke and reving issue. Only down side now is it has a lumpy idle and cuts out when not on throttle

johnbush

Looking at going st170 turbo in. My capri I'm Gona buy a st170 engine at the weekend get it on a stand and start stripping it I wana start buying bits exhaust manifold is simple enough seen a nice one on the bay , what happens inlet wise ?? , guess I need the st170 loom or does the manigement thing you buy do all that ? I'm new to the hole turbo thing NA engines I'm happy with working on but I want to do something different , looking for 250bhp 300 max if it means my budget staying low ???? Gona re read this thread later but if you explain it to a dim whit I'll get it lmao

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I would use the ST bottom end with a black top head, not only does controlling the VVC make it harder from a mapping point of view but the ST170 head is prone to warping so I was told by Simon at Sitech (I've never actually tried one myself though)..
Inlet you can use a black top one.
Wiring will be down to what management you choose.

New_guy_in_town

Wow what a thread, long reading to get thro it all, TWICE.

Im going to turbo an 1800 Silvertop and was after advice on exhaust manifolds and whats the current thinking on turbo choices.?

Go old skool T3 or T4 from our Cosworth brothers, or mix n match it with a different turbo entirely

studabear

T3 should be fine for a decent road car. Cossie spec T3 with a .48 exhaust housing.

big_wasa

I am doing two.

One is all focus Rs it's nice and tidy and should be good for 260bhp but parts have the Rs tax.

Mock up with plain Zetec.


The other is an Impreza Td04 on a modified aftermarket Rs mani and again should be good for 260bhp and bits are cheap.



Another popular mod is the steel focus mani with what ever turbo floats your boat. This one is a td04 again.



The scooby flange gives you scope for a td05 or a vf43/48 and capable of 350 bhp+

New_guy_in_town

Im either looking at keeping it Ford based, T3, or looking at the TF035 Mitsubishi turbo style. Even using an 1800 Silvertop im looking at wanting around 250 bhp and ft/lbs.
Idea is to keep it cheap but reliable.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Cheap and reliable do not often go together... But with a ZT build and sensible power aspirations it can be done

big_wasa

A T3 wouldn't be my first choice due to them getting on a bit. I just think there are cheaper more reliable units out there.

New_guy_in_town

I spoke to Dale at Baily, very informative chat.
So my plan is,

Escort RS turbo exhaust manifold, cut off plate and reweld on zetec plate, cut off T3 plate and weld on TD04 plate.
Subaru sourced TD04,
​​​​​​bosche 440cc top feed injectors from Volvo,
Inlet from 2.0 zetec

Managed by omex

L33_srd

What sort of boost would this hold on a cossie t34 ? Or what sort of boost would you need to make the 300bhp ?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

This depends on some other factors too, like what manifolds you have... But 300bhp would be in the 20's on most ZT's.

Cameron

Did you ever manage to sort this mate? Im having this problem got the ka starter from a 99 model too

Is there another starter motor i can use?

New_guy_in_town

Before i start the new year collecting parts for a zetec turbo. TD04 based.
My other option is fitting an eco boost. Has anyone got links/info on fitting a rwd ecoboost, what power can i get with minor mods etc. Wheres the best places to source the engine, just all and any info on a rwd ecoboost will be great.

happy new year to you all

studabear

You won't get the answers you want on this thread man.

New_guy_in_town

Ive tried looking but cant find any links. Hoping that a reader has knowledge.
perhaps i need to refine search

big_wasa

The engine management to run direct injection is moving forward but still very very expensive.

The rwd bit isn’t hard.

New_guy_in_town

So asking the out there question,
1.6 or 2.0?
will they go on a 4 speed rocket box/2000e
just saw a low miles 2.0 on web for Ł450. Thats cheaper than equivalent zetec blacktop. Performance potential is better

big_wasa

Unless you have a very special gearbox any turbo motor is gooing to lunch it fast. The only two that stand a chance are the T5 and the Mt75. Neither are going to mount up easily. I have a turbo zetec but know if I stick it on a T9 it won't end well.

I would look at an adapter with an Rx8 box with the 1.6 st180 lump.

There will be loads of cheap low miles engines come up after the winter due to accident damage.

Again look into the engine management before spending your money as there is a reason there cheap.

New_guy_in_town

I have an mt75 box, wasn't aware it could handle big torque.
ill consider using it.

But another question. Can i use a turbo of a diesel car? I know of a few going free.

bassboy

Does anyone know what fiesta alternator and brackets are needed?? From which engine?

studabear

I used the escorts rs turbo alternator and bracket. I bought a plate which lowered it down.

bassboy

Yeah that's the fall back plan with a Granada 90amp alt...do you have a link to the plate that you bought?

studabear

I got it on ebay about 4 years ago, haven't seen them for a long long time. It would be easy enough to make one.

bassboy

Yeah everyone I know who had one bought it a while back and I cant seem to find any now...Do you have a pic of yours?

studabear

Not sure without looking. But if you get bracket off and get some paper you can draw it up easy enough. Basically the bracket/plate has 6 holes in it with 2 nuts welded to the holes at one end. So draw the 4 holes onto paper that are on the escorts mounting bracket then move the bracket down so the top bracket holes are covering the bottom 2 on paper and draw the bottom 2 holes on, that's the 2 that when the bracket is made will have the nuts welded to the back.

Hope this makes sense I will have a look for a picture tonight or take a pic of mine fitted if possible to get a decent angle.