For anyone interested in a Zetec turbo conversion.
13-08-2012, 02:08 PM
#1
For anyone interested in a Zetec turbo conversion.
As a few people have asked here is a concise guide to going ZT!
Assuming you are happy with up to 350bhp then the easiest way is to go with a ST170 bottom end, black top head using the ST170 valve springs and fit the 1.8mm Focus RS head gasket (FINIS 1361410) lowering the CR to 8.9:1... Engine sorted!
In this example I'm using the RST exhaust manifold with an adapter plate off ebay and the black top inlet manifold (it allows you to close your bonnet and flows much better than the shit EFI one), the black top throttle cable fit's an EFI pedal so use that (mod your MFI pedal if you don't have a EFI one) and a Fiesta RST fuel pressure regulator fits straight on to the rail too!
Injector choice is up to you but I use Siemens DEKA IV's which will flow for about 360bhp.
You will need to run at least a stage 3 T3 .48/55 and TBH that is restrictive at high RPM but it is very very responsive.
You will also need an AP Racing CP2000-35 or Helix equivalent RST clutch and an EFI flywheel (some say the bolt holes need enlarging 1mm but mine fitted straight on) as we are not using an MTX gearbox.
Don't forget to retain the Zetec coil pack, bracket and plug leads etc.
You then need to whip off the sump and fit a set of these...
Whilst the sump is off fit your oil return to the front and breather to the back (You can also fit these to the block if you prefer)...
At this point it's good to know what gearbox your going to use, my recommendation is the IB5 1.3 Ka box (same ratio's as a RST just need to drop your LSD in) but this requires a hydraulic clutch so follow my guide here https://passionford.com/forum/ford-e...8-04-10-a.html obviously you only need to do part one!
lol
You will need a Ka starter motor too.
This box is stronger than your stock RST BC box, although not as strong as an MTX but doesn't need custom shafts, the inner wing cutting, or custom mounts so is a good compromise IMO.
Trim off any parts of the sump that look like they will foul the drive shaft like this...
If you really must run a BC box then you also need to trim some off the front to make room for the starter motor, like this...
Here's a pic of an unmodified sump for comparison...
Block off the breather hole in the front of the block using a 41mm core plug or a small plate, like this...
Drill and tap the head to fit the CVH thermostat housing and coolant temp sensor's (one for the dash and one for your engine management), there is a core plug in the top of the CVH stat housing that apparently if removed has a temp sensor thread already there for one... I didn't know this till after drilling two fresh holes in the head!
lol
Fit the RST oil cooler, oil filter, oil pressure switch and T for turbo oil feed...
Reassemble and your engine is ready to drop in!
Using of course, a modified CVH engine mount!
There are a couple of ways to do this so here's a few pics...
Or...
You get the idea!
Make up a bracket for an idler pulley (should have one spare from the ST170 engine) to correct the direction of the auxiliary belt (1150mm belt from any motor factors) like this...
Hook up all your water pipes (RST one's fit), breather pipes, etc. and make up your custom boost hoses... I used a 90 degree reducer from TB 70mm to 63mm for my hard pipe then another reducer from 63mm to 51mm to fit my IC.
You need a Fiesta alternator bracket (or one of the ebay copies) and the alternator itself, swap the pulley for a Zetec one and fit to the engine.
You can also use an RST one and grind the shit out of it to make it fit (what I actually did! lol) but the Fiesta option is better.
Finally bend your dipstick tube carefully to follow the shape of the exhaust manifold.
It should all end up looking something like this...
One thing to note...
I had to upgrade my gearbox mounts as the engine moved so much with the extra torque that the cam belt tensioner pulley was hitting the inner wing where the engine mount bolts to (the 'ledge' that sticks out).
I also had to grind a few mm off the water pump pulley bolts as they caught the inner wing when cornering.
Assuming you are happy with up to 350bhp then the easiest way is to go with a ST170 bottom end, black top head using the ST170 valve springs and fit the 1.8mm Focus RS head gasket (FINIS 1361410) lowering the CR to 8.9:1... Engine sorted!
In this example I'm using the RST exhaust manifold with an adapter plate off ebay and the black top inlet manifold (it allows you to close your bonnet and flows much better than the shit EFI one), the black top throttle cable fit's an EFI pedal so use that (mod your MFI pedal if you don't have a EFI one) and a Fiesta RST fuel pressure regulator fits straight on to the rail too!
Injector choice is up to you but I use Siemens DEKA IV's which will flow for about 360bhp.
You will need to run at least a stage 3 T3 .48/55 and TBH that is restrictive at high RPM but it is very very responsive.
You will also need an AP Racing CP2000-35 or Helix equivalent RST clutch and an EFI flywheel (some say the bolt holes need enlarging 1mm but mine fitted straight on) as we are not using an MTX gearbox.
Don't forget to retain the Zetec coil pack, bracket and plug leads etc.
You then need to whip off the sump and fit a set of these...
Whilst the sump is off fit your oil return to the front and breather to the back (You can also fit these to the block if you prefer)...
At this point it's good to know what gearbox your going to use, my recommendation is the IB5 1.3 Ka box (same ratio's as a RST just need to drop your LSD in) but this requires a hydraulic clutch so follow my guide here https://passionford.com/forum/ford-e...8-04-10-a.html obviously you only need to do part one!
lolYou will need a Ka starter motor too.
This box is stronger than your stock RST BC box, although not as strong as an MTX but doesn't need custom shafts, the inner wing cutting, or custom mounts so is a good compromise IMO.
Trim off any parts of the sump that look like they will foul the drive shaft like this...
If you really must run a BC box then you also need to trim some off the front to make room for the starter motor, like this...
Here's a pic of an unmodified sump for comparison...
Block off the breather hole in the front of the block using a 41mm core plug or a small plate, like this...
Drill and tap the head to fit the CVH thermostat housing and coolant temp sensor's (one for the dash and one for your engine management), there is a core plug in the top of the CVH stat housing that apparently if removed has a temp sensor thread already there for one... I didn't know this till after drilling two fresh holes in the head!
lolFit the RST oil cooler, oil filter, oil pressure switch and T for turbo oil feed...
Reassemble and your engine is ready to drop in!
Using of course, a modified CVH engine mount!
There are a couple of ways to do this so here's a few pics...
Or...
You get the idea!
Make up a bracket for an idler pulley (should have one spare from the ST170 engine) to correct the direction of the auxiliary belt (1150mm belt from any motor factors) like this...
Hook up all your water pipes (RST one's fit), breather pipes, etc. and make up your custom boost hoses... I used a 90 degree reducer from TB 70mm to 63mm for my hard pipe then another reducer from 63mm to 51mm to fit my IC.
You need a Fiesta alternator bracket (or one of the ebay copies) and the alternator itself, swap the pulley for a Zetec one and fit to the engine.
You can also use an RST one and grind the shit out of it to make it fit (what I actually did!
lol) but the Fiesta option is better.Finally bend your dipstick tube carefully to follow the shape of the exhaust manifold.
It should all end up looking something like this...
One thing to note...
I had to upgrade my gearbox mounts as the engine moved so much with the extra torque that the cam belt tensioner pulley was hitting the inner wing where the engine mount bolts to (the 'ledge' that sticks out).
I also had to grind a few mm off the water pump pulley bolts as they caught the inner wing when cornering.
Last edited by Karlos G; 11-05-2014 at 11:13 AM.
13-08-2012, 07:47 PM
#6
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I can truley say after being out in karlos's cabby last night, driving and being a passenger, its unbelievable, amazing power, but so good at delivering it!I was a bit scared, and even confess to shutting my eyes at one point this man knows his snizz top work bud
this man knows his snizz top work bud
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13-08-2012, 09:13 PM
#8
I can truley say after being out in karlos's cabby last night, driving and being a passenger, its unbelievable, amazing power, but so good at delivering it!I was a bit scared, and even confess to shutting my eyes at one point this man knows his snizz top work bud
this man knows his snizz top work bud lolNow lets get some boost into that Orion!
13-08-2012, 10:43 PM
#11
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Awesome write up Karlos!
Stage 3 turbo on the Zetec?
Did your ignition map change much with the Zetec vs the CVH? I assume the new Zetec map probably had less advance than the CVH wanted?
Cheers
Stage 3 turbo on the Zetec?
Did your ignition map change much with the Zetec vs the CVH? I assume the new Zetec map probably had less advance than the CVH wanted?
Cheers
27-10-2012, 05:59 PM
#17
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Karlos
When you drilled the holes for the CVH stat did you break through with the bottom hole on the right if so do you have any leak problems or does it self seal ?
Thanks
When you drilled the holes for the CVH stat did you break through with the bottom hole on the right if so do you have any leak problems or does it self seal ?
Thanks
27-10-2012, 06:35 PM
#18
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Wish I had a pillar drill so I could do it myself.
28-10-2012, 09:19 AM
#19
PassionFord Post Whore!!
you dont need a piller drill for that mate, and it will need some lock tight on the bolts to help seal the threads .
28-10-2012, 02:02 PM
#21
Ben
Very good write up!
I guess really the expensive part would be managment/mapping!
Nice work fella.
I guess really the expensive part would be managment/mapping!
Nice work fella.
28-10-2012, 06:26 PM
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Awesome right up but could i ask for what reason did you swap to a cvh thermostat housing instead of sticking with the standard one ?
08-11-2012, 11:15 PM
#26
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Fitting to Quantum H4 (Fiesta mk 3.5)
Karlos
I have been looking at lots of info on the internet about zetec turbo's and the work you have done looks like really good advice to achieve a decent compromise between cost, reliability and performance. I really wouldn't want to go for more power than 300 to 350 bhp and so this really looks like the conversion for me.
I would like to do a similar conversion to a Quantum H4 which is a kit car based on a mk 3.5 Fiesta 1.6 si, this has a 1.6 zetec, power steering and an ib5 gearbox. The engine mount positions and gearbox cradle etc are all exactly the same as the Fiesta si.
I have already sourced st170 front and rear brakes, a mondeo servo, coilovers and bigger alloys and tyres, these will all be going on prior to engine and gearbox work.
I do have a few questions as follows, and I hope that someone out there can give me some steer on these.
1. The work done by Karlos involves cutting away parts of the block to fit the engine, I don't know if this is required as my car already has a zetec engine although it is only a 1.6.
2. I know that I will have to fit a different sump, oil pick up pipe, and dipstick tube, and I'm not sure if these parts can be taken from my 1.6 engine, plus other parts to swapped over or sourced?
3. Engine mounts and mods are all a bit of a grey area to me.
4. I want to retain the power steering and I'm not sure what this involves.
5. There seem to be 3 gearbox options, retain the ib5, or another version of it, but I have read that these can only cope with about 200 bhp. Fit an mtx gearbox or the st170 getrag, and there are differing views on these. I don't know what chassis mod's the different gearboxes involve, or the best clutches etc to use, I think custom driveshafts would be needed for the mtx or getrag. Also I would have no idea how to deal with the gear linkage for the mtx or getrag.
6. Any other words of advice gratefully received!!!
I have been looking at lots of info on the internet about zetec turbo's and the work you have done looks like really good advice to achieve a decent compromise between cost, reliability and performance. I really wouldn't want to go for more power than 300 to 350 bhp and so this really looks like the conversion for me.
I would like to do a similar conversion to a Quantum H4 which is a kit car based on a mk 3.5 Fiesta 1.6 si, this has a 1.6 zetec, power steering and an ib5 gearbox. The engine mount positions and gearbox cradle etc are all exactly the same as the Fiesta si.
I have already sourced st170 front and rear brakes, a mondeo servo, coilovers and bigger alloys and tyres, these will all be going on prior to engine and gearbox work.
I do have a few questions as follows, and I hope that someone out there can give me some steer on these.
1. The work done by Karlos involves cutting away parts of the block to fit the engine, I don't know if this is required as my car already has a zetec engine although it is only a 1.6.
2. I know that I will have to fit a different sump, oil pick up pipe, and dipstick tube, and I'm not sure if these parts can be taken from my 1.6 engine, plus other parts to swapped over or sourced?
3. Engine mounts and mods are all a bit of a grey area to me.
4. I want to retain the power steering and I'm not sure what this involves.
5. There seem to be 3 gearbox options, retain the ib5, or another version of it, but I have read that these can only cope with about 200 bhp. Fit an mtx gearbox or the st170 getrag, and there are differing views on these. I don't know what chassis mod's the different gearboxes involve, or the best clutches etc to use, I think custom driveshafts would be needed for the mtx or getrag. Also I would have no idea how to deal with the gear linkage for the mtx or getrag.
6. Any other words of advice gratefully received!!!
11-11-2012, 06:33 PM
#27
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Another question I have is regarding the coolant temp sensor thats fitted in the zetec head, below the inlet manifold, could this sensor be configured into the m/s setting? (just thinking it would save me drilling the head.)
12-11-2012, 02:31 PM
#28
Sorry Andrew I cannot help really as I have no knowledge of the Fiesta your car is based on at all!
But Just to point out I did not cut any of the block away (not sure where you read that?) nor did I say you need to change the sump, oil pick up pipe, and dipstick tube?! You retain all that from the ST170
lol
Stu I can't say I noticed a coolant temp sensor in the Zetec head?! But yes if there is one there then by all means use it!
Just FYI MS will need a two wire sensor though, the single wire ones are not accurate enough (too noisey) for anything other than a gauge.
But Just to point out I did not cut any of the block away (not sure where you read that?) nor did I say you need to change the sump, oil pick up pipe, and dipstick tube?! You retain all that from the ST170
lolStu I can't say I noticed a coolant temp sensor in the Zetec head?! But yes if there is one there then by all means use it!
Just FYI MS will need a two wire sensor though, the single wire ones are not accurate enough (too noisey) for anything other than a gauge.
Last edited by Karlos G; 12-11-2012 at 02:33 PM.
12-11-2012, 10:00 PM
#30
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zt
Karlos
Thanks for responding, when I mentioned cutting away the block I should have said sump.
Concerning modifying the oil pick up, dipstick and the sump I was recalling what I had previously read about putting a 2 litre blacktop into a mk3.5 Fiesta, and I thought the same would probably apply to the bottom end of the Focus st170 engine. However I appreciate you don't know about this for a Fiesta.
I have already started a new thread on the various gearbox points I mentioned, and I will start a new thread on the other points for the Fiesta.
I have read a fair amount on the options of putting together a zetec turbo and your method really looks like a good way of achieving this. I guess its the combination of the stronger st170 bottom end and the simpler blacktop head (no VVT) that makes it work.
Thanks for responding, when I mentioned cutting away the block I should have said sump.
Concerning modifying the oil pick up, dipstick and the sump I was recalling what I had previously read about putting a 2 litre blacktop into a mk3.5 Fiesta, and I thought the same would probably apply to the bottom end of the Focus st170 engine. However I appreciate you don't know about this for a Fiesta.
I have already started a new thread on the various gearbox points I mentioned, and I will start a new thread on the other points for the Fiesta.
I have read a fair amount on the options of putting together a zetec turbo and your method really looks like a good way of achieving this. I guess its the combination of the stronger st170 bottom end and the simpler blacktop head (no VVT) that makes it work.
13-11-2012, 07:20 AM
#31
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Karlos, good write up mate a few quick questions. Firstly I ran an st170 bottom end on one I my zvh engines many years ago and it would pink on full boost only running around 14psi on standard t3 are the heads that different in dish size that you can get decent compression without using a decomp plate or having the pistons machined. I thought 8.5:1 is about right for turbo charging? Also do you not need to use the sump and pickup pipe from a 1.8 zetec so that the exhaust will fit?
Great write up by the way after owning my FRS I can safely say i will never build another CVh or zvh if I get a retro ford again ZT FTW!!!
Great write up by the way after owning my FRS I can safely say i will never build another CVh or zvh if I get a retro ford again ZT FTW!!!
19-11-2012, 12:57 PM
#34
Zetec Turbo Baby Yeahhhh
Great thread! I'm doing a 1.8 (although possibly 2.0 now
) blacktop focus turbo. Just wanted to ask what the need for 2 coolant sensors is, i understand why you have used two but can i not just split the wiring to feed off to the dash and to the MS? I hate electrical bits!
Cheers!
21-11-2012, 02:17 PM
#35
Karlos, good write up mate a few quick questions. Firstly I ran an st170 bottom end on one I my zvh engines many years ago and it would pink on full boost only running around 14psi on standard t3 are the heads that different in dish size that you can get decent compression without using a decomp plate or having the pistons machined. I thought 8.5:1 is about right for turbo charging? Also do you not need to use the sump and pickup pipe from a 1.8 zetec so that the exhaust will fit?
Great write up by the way after owning my FRS I can safely say i will never build another CVh or zvh if I get a retro ford again ZT FTW!!!
Great write up by the way after owning my FRS I can safely say i will never build another CVh or zvh if I get a retro ford again ZT FTW!!!
The above build gives you a CR of 8.9:1 and I had no problems with det.
No, as above the ST170 sump and pickup are used (same as black top).
I agree, ZVH is a terrible engine (let's not start an argument about it please PF users, been done to death on here!!
) and a ZT is so much better than a CVH in every way!Thanks!
Hi Karlos
Great thread! I'm doing a 1.8 (although possibly 2.0 now) blacktop focus turbo. Just wanted to ask what the need for 2 coolant sensors is, i understand why you have used two but can i not just split the wiring to feed off to the dash and to the MS?
I hate electrical bits!
Cheers!
Great thread! I'm doing a 1.8 (although possibly 2.0 now
) blacktop focus turbo. Just wanted to ask what the need for 2 coolant sensors is, i understand why you have used two but can i not just split the wiring to feed off to the dash and to the MS? I hate electrical bits!
Cheers!
22-11-2012, 09:36 PM
#36
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nice work mate, can you tell me if the silvertop oil pump and water pump will fit on this block? and what about a black top block? will they bolt up to? i need a new engine so i was thinking about a blacktop or st170 conversion
24-11-2012, 04:57 PM
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I have a 2.0 silvertop in my mk4 but its started to rattle. was thinking about a blacktop or st conversion but i need the water pump and oil pump to be the same as escort silvertop coz otherwise my power steering setup wont fit. i didnt think the st lump was a blacktop. thought it was different. my bad. i may just fix up the silvertop but i thought whilst it was out id upgrade. the blacktop sump has 2 piece alloy and steel sump but the st looks different. is it? Looks like its slightly baffled which would be great as long as it will clear my manifold?!?
