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Old 25-01-2007, 10:55 PM   #1
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Default How to upgrade to cossie brakes

Hey guy's fitted my cossie 283mm brake setup tonight and I'm well impressed! Thought I'd do a little "How to", this guide assumes you know sort of what you're doing, and that you have prepped all the parts beforehand, but it's almost this easy, here goes.

Front Brakes

You will need:-

• Escort/Sierra Cossie 4x4 calipers & carriers- Ebay £80
• Escort/Sierra Cossie 4x4 Pads - Ferodo DS Performance - Burton Power £45
• Sierra 2wd Cossie 283mm Disks - Delphi - Local Motor Factors £70
• Braided brake hoses - Goodridge - Burton Power £40
• 4x 1mm thick washers to fit over caliper bolts - B&Q - 10p
• Brake fluid - Dot 4 or 5.1 - Local Motor Factors - £6

Procedure:-

01) Remove wheel
02) Remove old caliper and disk
03) Remove old flexi hose
04) Put new disk into place tighly bolt it on with 2 wheel nuts
05) Push the new caliper's piston home
06) Insert the new pads
07) Bolt new braided hose into the caliper
08) Bolt new caliper into place, using the 1mm washers between the hub and the carrier
09) Bolt the braided hose into the hose clamp and join it to the solid hose
10) Bleed brake fluid through as per usual
11) Replace the wheel ensuring the disk is perfectly fitted and all bolts are tight
12) Repeat on the other side

Some pics of mine:-

OLD:


NEW:












It took me 1 hour and a quarter on the one side, but once I'd done it, the other side was easily 30 mins. So I'd say it'll take you 2 hours to do all in, and with the parts I bought will cost you around £240 - £250.

Rear Brakes (NEW!)

You will need:-

• Sierra Cossie 2wd/XR4x4 calipers & carriers- Ebay £60
• Sierra Cossie 2wd/XR4x4 - Ferodo DS Performance - Burton Power £65
• Sierra 2wd Cossie 273mm solid rear Disks - Local Motor Factors £40
• Braided brake hoses - Goodridge - Burton Power £40 (Part of Kit above)
• VW (Not sure which model) brake hose (255mm) M10 male to M10 female - £15
• Handbrake cable (Model to be confirmed) - £19.99
• Escort MK4 rear disk conversion backing plates - Auto Specialists - £20
• 4x 9mm thick spacers to fit over caliper bolts - Made by a relative
• Brake fluid - Dot 4 or 5.1 - Local Motor Factors - £6

Procedure:-

01) Remove wheel
02) Remove old drum
03) Remove centre nut
04) Remove Hub
05) Remove the brake shoes by turning the retaining washers 90 degrees
06) Remove the handbrake cable by removing the spring washer
07) Unbolt the brake hose from the backing plate
08) Remove the 4 backing plate retaining bolts and discard the backing plate
09) Bolt on the new caliper retaining backing plate torquing the bolts correctly
10) You will need to grind corners off the bolts for the hub to fit back on correctly (see picture)
11) Replace the hub and centre nut
12) Remove the flexi and solid brake hoses from either side of the strut retaining the plate to mount to the strut
13) Put the disc in place secured by some wheel bolts
14) Bolt new carriers into place, using the 9mm spacers between the backing plate and the carrier
15) Place the pads in the carrier
16) Screw the VW hose into the Caliper
17) Bolt the caliper to the carrier
18) Screw the Goodridge braided hose into the VW hose with the strut mount plate between them
19) Locate the strut mount plate in the correct position on the strut ensuring the VW hose has no sharp bends or kinks
20) Bolt the other end of the goodridge hose into the solid brake pipe at the chassis mounting (Washers may be required)
21) Replace the wheel ensuring the disk is perfectly fitted and all bolts are tight
22) Place the car on the floor and settle the suspension (RS Turbo's with ABS must!!!)
23) Bleed brake fluid through as per usual
24) Repeat on the other side

























Now you're all thinking "Handbrake cable". The one I've found that fits is the MK5 RS2000 16v/Escort Cosworth (Early Models). Basically the one piece item. RS2000 16v's have 2 types of cable listed for disk models, a single piece and a 2 piece, you want the single piece!

It took me 3 and a half days on the one side (gathering the right parts from the off will help!!!), but once I'd done it, the other side was easily under 2 Hours. So I'd say it'll take a competent DIY mechanic 4 hours odd to do all in correct parts permitting, and with the parts I bought will cost you around £200 - £250.

Also it seems you dont need to use solid disks and 2wd calipers. Sexr3i has used 4x4 Cosworth calipers and disks for his conversion.

Comments welcome as usual!

Lee
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Last edited by mentalasanything; 22-04-2008 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 25-01-2007, 11:43 PM   #2
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Sorry to be a pessimist...........

Are they EBC pads
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Old 26-01-2007, 12:20 AM   #3
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usally take short time. wath is wrong with EBC?
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Old 26-01-2007, 12:36 AM   #4
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Have you not seen the picture floating around

Everyone knows EBC are awful
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Old 26-01-2007, 07:07 AM   #5
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Default Re: How to upgrade to cossie brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
• Escort/Sierra Cossie 4x4 Pads - Ferodo DS2000 - Burton Power £45
Nope! But the original disks and pads were

Lee
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Old 26-01-2007, 07:46 AM   #6
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Very useful mate, well done
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Old 26-01-2007, 08:12 AM   #7
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SafeChav: hmm, no i havent... but I am using ferodo anyway on my rst, no EBC there and mintex on my Audi
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Old 26-01-2007, 09:42 AM   #8
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Just about to do the very same conversion on my S1. I have all the bits bar the pads so any recommendations would be welcome.

I have 1.6mm washers (they were ones I had at work) will these be ok?
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Old 26-01-2007, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapidRS
Just about to do the very same conversion on my S1. I have all the bits bar the pads so any recommendations would be welcome.

I have 1.6mm washers (they were ones I had at work) will these be ok?
Well the pads everyone on here recommend are Ferodo DS or Mintex 1144. I went for the DS ones because there were a few more recommendations for them than mintex, but it's up ot you!!

I'm not sure on the 1.6mm washers. I used 1mm ones as recommended on here and used a vernier caliper to check. If you lookat this pic:-



you'll see disk sits perfectly centralised in the caliper.

Not a hard job to do at all!

Lee
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Old 26-01-2007, 11:54 AM   #10
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front on mine

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Old 26-01-2007, 12:17 PM   #11
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Top work mate maybe worth PMing a mod and get it made into a sticky as there are always people asking what they need and how to do it
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Old 26-01-2007, 12:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antony215
Top work mate maybe worth PMing a mod and get it made into a sticky as there are always people asking what they need and how to do it
I created it because sooooo many people (myself included) keep asking about brake conversions,, and cossie ones seem a popular choice, I'll give it a go now........

Lee
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Old 26-01-2007, 01:38 PM   #13
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£70 for standard disks is a bit steep considering you can get drilled and grooved for £74 and 40 grooved for £60
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Old 26-01-2007, 02:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
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£70 for standard disks is a bit steep considering you can get drilled and grooved for £74 and 40 grooved for £60
Where from? Hope your not suggesting EBC
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Old 26-01-2007, 02:47 PM   #15
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would i suggest such rubbish???? Sport Brakes and CRN Performance do them
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Old 26-01-2007, 02:57 PM   #16
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Good price and they look ok, but I'd be very weary of using them they arent branded at all, not even EBC branded . The cheapest you'll find a set of branded 40 groove disks for the cossie is £190, the cheapest of any disks on the net outside ebay are £120 odd.

A set of OEM cossie disks will set you back £200 from R&B, so £70 in hindsight is ok!

They look good but I wouldnt use them.

Lee
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Old 26-01-2007, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Good price and they look ok, but I'd be very weary of using them they arent branded at all, not even EBC branded . The cheapest you'll find a set of branded 40 groove disks for the cossie is £190, the cheapest of any disks on the net outside ebay are £120 odd.

A set of OEM cossie disks will set you back £200 from R&B, so £70 in hindsight is ok!

They look good but I wouldnt use them.

Lee
absolute rubbish sorry mate!!! i have been using them on my 230 bhp erst for over 2 years now,done countless track days and i allways drive it hard!! they are spot on!! i have also fitted them to 5 road rally cars with no complaints what so ever
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Old 26-01-2007, 04:00 PM   #18
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mine is from rallydesigne
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Old 28-01-2007, 01:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Have you not seen the picture floating around
Everyone knows EBC are awful
Had EBC in two cars now and had no problems...
*Not seen any pic neither
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Old 28-01-2007, 04:55 PM   #20
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Can we now make it an official rule if anyone asks how to do a cossie brake upgrade we give them a bitch slap
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Old 28-01-2007, 05:07 PM   #21
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ehm, how to upgrade to cossie brake

oh no, they could still ask about the rear
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Old 28-01-2007, 09:56 PM   #22
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just done the conversion on mine. What calliper bolts did u use? my original ones wouldnt fit for some reason, had to go back and get mondeo v6 ones as they use the same callipers and carriers. Also, my disc fitted perfectly in the carrier etc wen using the washer but i found it was grinding on the calliper carrier causing it to not spin freely. So a tiny bit of carrier was ground back
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Old 29-01-2007, 09:40 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_86
front on mine

sorry if im stupid, but i have wondered that how u fix the wheel on? 2 bolt?
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Old 29-01-2007, 09:46 AM   #24
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well, to put the wheel on. I just undo those 2 bolts, put the wheel on, and then put 4 bolts in
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Old 29-01-2007, 10:35 AM   #25
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jarnok The two bolts were probably fitted to hold the disc in place whilst the caliper was fitted.

How come the cossie discs have no retaining/positioning screw like most other discs?
I know the main wheel bolts hold it in place when fully fitted, but it
1: holds the disc in place with no wheel fitted
2: stops the hub from rotating when lining the wheel up with the wheel bolt holes.
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Old 29-01-2007, 10:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs shawn

jarnok The two bolts were probably fitted to hold the disc in place whilst the caliper was fitted.

How come the cossie discs have no retaining/positioning screw like most other discs?
I know the main wheel bolts hold it in place when fully fitted, but it
1: holds the disc in place with no wheel fitted
2: stops the hub from rotating when lining the wheel up with the wheel bolt holes.
good questions these. We have real hard MOT inspections here and if the inspector notice this kind of thing would the MOT fail.
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Old 29-01-2007, 10:58 AM   #27
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UK mot'ers are not allowed to remove anything from the car, so they wouldn't know there was no 'holding' bolt fitted even if there was soemwhere to put it.
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Old 29-01-2007, 11:06 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs shawn
UK mot'ers are not allowed to remove anything from the car, so they wouldn't know there was no 'holding' bolt fitted even if there was soemwhere to put it.
but examle if u have 17" wheels which are model that u could see almost whole disk then u could notice that there is no any nuts or srews
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Old 29-01-2007, 11:14 AM   #29
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No mate, you still would not see it as the screw-hole would be behind the wheel hub.

In this pic, the countersunk hole is the locating hole. That is in line with the main wheel bolt holes, therefore you would not see it with the wheel fitted.
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Old 29-01-2007, 11:24 AM   #30
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I have a question please. If you are upgrading to cossie calipers and disks which are larger than the erst ones... don't you need to upgrade the Brake Master Cylinder as well? If yes, do you need to put the cossie one as well or do you know about something else that fits better? Thanks
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Old 29-01-2007, 11:42 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs shawn
No mate, you still would not see it as the screw-hole would be behind the wheel hub.

In this pic, the countersunk hole is the locating hole. That is in line with the main wheel bolt holes, therefore you would not see it with the wheel fitted.
kool
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Old 29-01-2007, 12:34 PM   #32
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rs shawn not having a locating hole isn't a safety aspect as jarnok is saying, its merely there as you say to make the wheel easy to fit without the hub spinning and causing the alignment problems.

The reason they don't have it........is because the brakes we use are all from cars with wheel studs pressed into the hubs
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Old 29-01-2007, 01:22 PM   #33
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Aah..so they only need nuts anyway..as opposed to the RST bolts.
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Old 29-01-2007, 01:37 PM   #34
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Yep

Duno what people are banging on about saying its a failure?! like that tiny M6 screw is going to be crucial or take any stress before it sheered off
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Old 29-01-2007, 05:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion_rst
I have a question please. If you are upgrading to cossie calipers and disks which are larger than the erst ones... don't you need to upgrade the Brake Master Cylinder as well? If yes, do you need to put the cossie one as well or do you know about something else that fits better? Thanks
No, the original master cylinder can cope fine.

Here's a goodun tho, why do the mk3 & 4's have bolts instead of studs and nuts???
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Old 29-01-2007, 05:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Here's a goodun tho, why do the mk3 & 4's have bolts instead of studs and nuts???
Just BECAUSE ok
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Old 29-01-2007, 05:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Here's a goodun tho, why do the mk3 & 4's have bolts instead of studs and nuts???
Just BECAUSE ok
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Old 29-01-2007, 09:29 PM   #38
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Old 29-01-2007, 10:12 PM   #39
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coz theyre old cars i imagine
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Old 30-01-2007, 08:39 AM   #40
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What, old like the 3drs which also have nuts

Maybe it's due to the size of disc. Smaller disc'd cars have smaller lighter wheels so use bolts as it's not too bad holding the wheel in place (yeh right!), whilst larger disc cars normally have larger wheels and a nut is simply for ease of fitment of supporting the weight of the wheel.
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