1afa - ofac
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1afa - ofac
Ive recently converted my Orion running standard 1AFA (same as an XR3i) management to EFi Turbo, OFAC management.
What are the changes nessacery for the wiring/ECU?
I thought it was plug & play, but it seems the CO Pot isn't doing anything and the car isn't returning to "base" CO setting when the CO Pot is unplugged, does the CO Pot (Pin 27 on the OFAC ECU) have a different Pin on the 1AFA ECU? Therefore with the OFAC fitted to my 1AFA wiring the ECU isn't receiving the CO Pot's signal? Or is it more likely a broken wire from the CO Pot to the ECU?
Also does any1 have a wiring/pin out diagram for both 1AFA and OFAC?
What are the changes nessacery for the wiring/ECU?
I thought it was plug & play, but it seems the CO Pot isn't doing anything and the car isn't returning to "base" CO setting when the CO Pot is unplugged, does the CO Pot (Pin 27 on the OFAC ECU) have a different Pin on the 1AFA ECU? Therefore with the OFAC fitted to my 1AFA wiring the ECU isn't receiving the CO Pot's signal? Or is it more likely a broken wire from the CO Pot to the ECU?
Also does any1 have a wiring/pin out diagram for both 1AFA and OFAC?
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Thats wot i thought 2, i just plugged the ecu in. But something isnt right as it wont sense any changes from the co pot and it doesnt boostcut, which makes me think ive got 2 change something. Looking on fiestaturbo.com it appears that pin 8 and 27 have 2 b changed to 27 and 45. maybe il try that...?
Yes i have the correct map sensor and the air charge temp sensor.
Yes i have the correct map sensor and the air charge temp sensor.
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Jano is right, there are less wires in a CVH EFi loom compared to an FRST loom. The diference being the EFi CVH loom has no amal valve wiring. As there is no amal valve you will have to manually set the actuator or use a bleed valve to control the boost. There will be no boost cut.
As for the CO pot I assume it was working when the car was N/A?
On an OFAC loom pin 27 is the CO pot and pin 45 is the MAP sensor. On an OFAB loom, Pin 8 is for the CO pot and and 27 is for the MAP sensor. If you were running OFAB on a 3i loom then you would need to make a change but as you say you are running OFAC you're fine.
It sounds as though the car is in LOS and changing the CO pot in this state will not make a diference as it will rely on the base settings built in to the ECU and not on sensor settings.
What you could try is to re-calibrate the ECU. The procedure for this is below. This quote is lifted straight out of the escort cabriolet club website:
Lee 
As for the CO pot I assume it was working when the car was N/A?
On an OFAC loom pin 27 is the CO pot and pin 45 is the MAP sensor. On an OFAB loom, Pin 8 is for the CO pot and and 27 is for the MAP sensor. If you were running OFAB on a 3i loom then you would need to make a change but as you say you are running OFAC you're fine.
It sounds as though the car is in LOS and changing the CO pot in this state will not make a diference as it will rely on the base settings built in to the ECU and not on sensor settings.
What you could try is to re-calibrate the ECU. The procedure for this is below. This quote is lifted straight out of the escort cabriolet club website:
Depending on how long the battery was disconnected, this may be of some use. ECU will have been reset if the battery has been disconnected for more than 1 hour however, it then has to be driven for a minimum of 5 miles during which time full throttle operation must be used a number of times (2nd or 3rd gear is best) but there is no need to take it to the red line...just have your foot planted up to 4 or 5,000 rpm each time and then change gear. Also need to cruise at half throttle a number of times for as long as the road will allow...again 3rd gear is best at around 3,000 rpm.......and then accelerate flat out and change gear. Lastly, need to come a full stop a nuumber of times and let the engine settle at idle. This covers a reset and re-learn of the ECU
To set the base idle: get engine to operating temperature and while at idle, disconnect the ISCV. Engine should still idle but around 650 to 700 rpm. If it does, re-connect ISCV, allow engine to settle at idle without revving and then turn off ignition.
To set the base idle: get engine to operating temperature and while at idle, disconnect the ISCV. Engine should still idle but around 650 to 700 rpm. If it does, re-connect ISCV, allow engine to settle at idle without revving and then turn off ignition.
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Chip arrived fine cheers c20tbo!
Car ran fine when it was na and it responds the the co pot with the 1afa ecu plugged in, but if u swap ecu to ofac it doesnt respond to co pot and runs horribly. Im not planning to run amal valve/boost control. R there any other differences between 1afa & ofac?
Wot r the part nums 4 1afa and ofac map sensors respectively?
This seems never ending, wot i thought was a plug and play conversion!
Cheers all
Car ran fine when it was na and it responds the the co pot with the 1afa ecu plugged in, but if u swap ecu to ofac it doesnt respond to co pot and runs horribly. Im not planning to run amal valve/boost control. R there any other differences between 1afa & ofac?
Wot r the part nums 4 1afa and ofac map sensors respectively?
This seems never ending, wot i thought was a plug and play conversion!
Cheers all
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Have you tried the reset re-learn procedure above yet? This seemed to help a few that have done the conversion on escort cabriolet club forum.
It is a straightforward plug and play swap when all of the sensors work, don't forget that some of the sensors could be 20 years old now!
Like I said above the car is more than likely in Limited Operation Strategy (limp home) mode and that's why it won't respond to the CO pot. It has reverted to the ECU (well EDIS really) Base settings. Try the procedure, nothing ventured nothing gained!
Lee
It is a straightforward plug and play swap when all of the sensors work, don't forget that some of the sensors could be 20 years old now!
Like I said above the car is more than likely in Limited Operation Strategy (limp home) mode and that's why it won't respond to the CO pot. It has reverted to the ECU (well EDIS really) Base settings. Try the procedure, nothing ventured nothing gained!
Lee
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No i havn't tried that and it's something i'm willing to try, but the car has been used daily for the past week or so covering over 300miles so it would have done all of that reset procedure and more in each journey...
I'll unplug ecu and give it a go, altho im sceptical its going to work.
All the sensors are fine, as when the 1AFA ecu is put back in the car runs sweet and the sensors give out the correct signals...(Which makes me sceptical about the reset procedure)! Just when the OFAC ECU plugs in it leans right out and adjusting the CO Pot makes NO difference!
Im thinking maybe ive got a 1AFA MAP sensor rather than an OFAC MAP sensor as they look the same, just diff part no's!?
Im going to try running in on 1AFA and bringing it on boost to see wot happens, presuming its got the OFAC MAP sensor in it, it shud sense boost pressure fine, it's just down to the ecu to deal with it!
I'll unplug ecu and give it a go, altho im sceptical its going to work.
All the sensors are fine, as when the 1AFA ecu is put back in the car runs sweet and the sensors give out the correct signals...(Which makes me sceptical about the reset procedure)! Just when the OFAC ECU plugs in it leans right out and adjusting the CO Pot makes NO difference!
Im thinking maybe ive got a 1AFA MAP sensor rather than an OFAC MAP sensor as they look the same, just diff part no's!?
Im going to try running in on 1AFA and bringing it on boost to see wot happens, presuming its got the OFAC MAP sensor in it, it shud sense boost pressure fine, it's just down to the ecu to deal with it!
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Sorry, I didn't realise you've been driving it. Don't try driving it with 1AFA either, that will end in tears. So when you put the 1AFA back in are you changing the MAP sensor and ACT sensor as well? What colour plug is on your ACT sensor?
What part numbers you got on your MAP sensors?
Lee
What part numbers you got on your MAP sensors?
Lee
Last edited by mentalasanything; Dec 3, 2010 at 08:06 AM.
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I will get part no's today for you...
When i try it on 1AFA its with the OFAC sensors, ACT & MAP and it idles fine and the CO adjusts to within limits. White small plug on ACT, had to change it from the big plug from the 1AFA/NA EFi ACT sensor.
When i try it on 1AFA its with the OFAC sensors, ACT & MAP and it idles fine and the CO adjusts to within limits. White small plug on ACT, had to change it from the big plug from the 1AFA/NA EFi ACT sensor.
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I have the following FINIS codes for MAP sensors:
1664211 - OFAC MAP Sensor
1652345 - 1AFA MAP Sensor
Take a look at these pics:
Which of these is your ACT like?
Lee
1664211 - OFAC MAP Sensor
1652345 - 1AFA MAP Sensor
Take a look at these pics:
Which of these is your ACT like?
Lee
Last edited by mentalasanything; Dec 3, 2010 at 08:28 AM.
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Cant see them pics...
But the ACT sensor is smaller than the NA 1 was and has a smaller plug, oh and needs an adaptor to fit into the inlet manifold!
I'll check my Part No's when i get a sec, cheers m8!
Would a wrong MAP sensor make it run badly?
Also i havnt disconnect PIN 2 at the EDIS...?
But the ACT sensor is smaller than the NA 1 was and has a smaller plug, oh and needs an adaptor to fit into the inlet manifold!
I'll check my Part No's when i get a sec, cheers m8!
Would a wrong MAP sensor make it run badly?
Also i havnt disconnect PIN 2 at the EDIS...?
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Turns out to be some mis-matched wiring... Some pin changes were required (thanks to Rallytec in Boreham, Essex), but im unsure what as yet. Once discovered i'll fill you all in!
Cars up and running 10x better, at around 3% Idle CO.
Ive never driven a Turbo'd Escort/Orion/Fiesta before and it drives nicely now!
1 Question... The throttle is SO responsive it's almost "twichty" is that right?
Cars up and running 10x better, at around 3% Idle CO.
Ive never driven a Turbo'd Escort/Orion/Fiesta before and it drives nicely now!
1 Question... The throttle is SO responsive it's almost "twichty" is that right?
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Right i've looked at the wiring n the ECU plug and it looks as if PINS 27, 45 and 50 something have been played with...
Can't see exactly what to where ect tho?
Part No's for MAP Sensor's
My OFAC one :V90FB9F479AA
My 1AFA one: E7EF97479A1A
Do they look about right?
Car still hesitates as it comes on boost and kangeroos slightly at around 65mph in 5th.
Can't see exactly what to where ect tho?
Part No's for MAP Sensor's
My OFAC one :V90FB9F479AA
My 1AFA one: E7EF97479A1A
Do they look about right?
Car still hesitates as it comes on boost and kangeroos slightly at around 65mph in 5th.
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Hmmm, sounds interesting, like I said above 27 is for the CO pot and 45 is for the MAP Sensor on both 1AFA and OFAC. Although pin 56 is the PIP signal, one of 2 control wires between EDIS and ECU.
Hesitation wise, are you running a dump valve at all?
Lee
Hesitation wise, are you running a dump valve at all?
Lee
Right i've looked at the wiring n the ECU plug and it looks as if PINS 27, 45 and 50 something have been played with...
Can't see exactly what to where ect tho?
Part No's for MAP Sensor's
My OFAC one :V90FB9F479AA
My 1AFA one: E7EF97479A1A
Do they look about right?
Car still hesitates as it comes on boost and kangeroos slightly at around 65mph in 5th.
Can't see exactly what to where ect tho?
Part No's for MAP Sensor's
My OFAC one :V90FB9F479AA
My 1AFA one: E7EF97479A1A
Do they look about right?
Car still hesitates as it comes on boost and kangeroos slightly at around 65mph in 5th.
MAP sensor and ACT sensor are the correct ones for OFAC so I'm guessing it's the same wiring problem you had.
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There's a few guides and also some differences in looms we found as no guide matched my stuff and had few Ecus etc at the time
Ditched that idea and just by a frst engine loom ,there pluged at bulkhead and not to expensive then that way u also have boost cut protection and a loom that's not been botched ..these are old looms to start with never mind messing with them wich brings its own probs
Plus ofac ain't as good as ofab ..your restricted to a bar of boost am sure..sure somebody with greater knowledge could confirm this
Ditched that idea and just by a frst engine loom ,there pluged at bulkhead and not to expensive then that way u also have boost cut protection and a loom that's not been botched ..these are old looms to start with never mind messing with them wich brings its own probs
Plus ofac ain't as good as ofab ..your restricted to a bar of boost am sure..sure somebody with greater knowledge could confirm this
Last edited by boeb; Jul 2, 2013 at 11:30 AM.
Karlos im in 2 minds with what to do with my cabriolet engine wise? i knew OFAC wasnt as good as ofab but i just wanted to keep things simple and run a stock frst engine with no reliability issues but now im thinking zetec turbo and megasquirt etc! its a long term project for me so do you think i should just go for the frst engine and maybe run it on OFAM or go zetec turbo? the latter is a bit overkill imo as its just a cabriolet and im not looking to break any records but like other projects ive had in the past i just go silly and spend too much money and give up in the end lol
If it were me and your not worried about staying faithful to the original CVH then I would go ZT every time, it's more responsive, economical, reliable, and cheap to build these days!
If for example you only wanted 200-220bhp then a totally stock black top using only the RST exhaust manifold, modded CVH mount, oil return and breather in sump and a set of VXR injectors would cost next to nothing to do, maybe Ł250? Couple that with a Boost Monkeys ECU and your good to go!
If for example you only wanted 200-220bhp then a totally stock black top using only the RST exhaust manifold, modded CVH mount, oil return and breather in sump and a set of VXR injectors would cost next to nothing to do, maybe Ł250? Couple that with a Boost Monkeys ECU and your good to go!
Last edited by Karlos G; Jul 2, 2013 at 01:24 PM.
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If it were me and your not worried about staying faithful to the original CVH then I would go ZT every time, it's more responsive, economical, reliable, and cheap to build these days!
If for example you only wanted 200-220bhp then a totally stock black top using only the RST exhaust manifold, modded CVH mount, oil return and breather in sump and a set of VXR injectors would cost next to nothing to do, maybe Ł250? Couple that with a Boost Monkeys ECU and your good to go!
If for example you only wanted 200-220bhp then a totally stock black top using only the RST exhaust manifold, modded CVH mount, oil return and breather in sump and a set of VXR injectors would cost next to nothing to do, maybe Ł250? Couple that with a Boost Monkeys ECU and your good to go!
Interesting ...wot u do about lowering comp mate....at a turning point with track fez after destroying ma zvht at wosrsoc day ...won't be going zvh again as been a fkn curse from day 1 ...so it's either zt or cvh
I wouldn't do anything, it's 10.0:1 so with 99RON fuel and a decent intercooler it should happily run the 10-12psi you can with standard valve springs.
Just to note I have not actually done this yet but I have a build in progress that I will be trying it on.
The worst that can happen is it starts detonating before you get to 10-12psi and so you end up having to run a little less boost or you fit a decomp plate, no big deal either way!
Just to note I have not actually done this yet but I have a build in progress that I will be trying it on.
The worst that can happen is it starts detonating before you get to 10-12psi and so you end up having to run a little less boost or you fit a decomp plate, no big deal either way!
If anyone is interested this is the wire swaping you need to do for XR3i/XR2i (1AFA) to FRST (OFAC)...
1) Pin no. 8 (brown) needs moving to pin 27, which is empty (CO adjuster signal wire)
2) Pin no. 27 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin no. 45
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
But... only on some conversions it seems!
Some work plug and play and others need the above doing, maybe there are some subtle differences in the ECU/loom's of different years I don't know?! But I guess if it doesn't work one way then try it the other! lol
Karlos.
1) Pin no. 8 (brown) needs moving to pin 27, which is empty (CO adjuster signal wire)
2) Pin no. 27 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin no. 45
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
But... only on some conversions it seems!
Some work plug and play and others need the above doing, maybe there are some subtle differences in the ECU/loom's of different years I don't know?! But I guess if it doesn't work one way then try it the other! lol
Karlos.
Last edited by Karlos G; Jul 2, 2013 at 04:02 PM.
I converted a 2i loom to ofac and had to put the co pot on pin 8 as it done nothing on pin 27. Luckily ive got a proper diagnostic machine for eec-iv and it gave me fault code 059 rem co and i couldnt adjust the co so i moved it to pin 8 and all was well. Even the proper wiring diagrams say pin 8 or 27 it had me stumped for a while.
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Hi, I have just converted my EFI XR3i cabriolet to ofac turbo. I had rough running at idle and hesitation etc ... Also my CO pot did nothing. I put a CO tester on the car and found the CO to be very low and HC to be very high so their was an obvious fault. I found my standard 1AFA wiring was already in pins 27 for CO pot and pin 45 for MAP sensor ! I didn't think this was the issue because all the guides say to do this anyway BUT It still ran rough,
Anyway I found that the CO pot wire in pin 27 needed moving to pin 8 and pin 45 stayed in place , the CO and HC are now fine and the car runs much better ! This might not be your issue but it worked for me
Anyway I found that the CO pot wire in pin 27 needed moving to pin 8 and pin 45 stayed in place , the CO and HC are now fine and the car runs much better ! This might not be your issue but it worked for me
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It seems some cars want this swapped and others dont...
There are slight variations i have found in 1AFA looms over the years, early vs late, Orion, XR3i and Xr2i all vary a bit too... Without stripping the looms back its just trial and error!
Just to clear up what Karlos said above the MAP sensors themselves are different, but the wiring to them is the same. 1AFA map sensors cannot detect boost pressure, only vacuum
There are slight variations i have found in 1AFA looms over the years, early vs late, Orion, XR3i and Xr2i all vary a bit too... Without stripping the looms back its just trial and error!
Just to clear up what Karlos said above the MAP sensors themselves are different, but the wiring to them is the same. 1AFA map sensors cannot detect boost pressure, only vacuum
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If anyone is interested this is the wire swaping you need to do for XR3i/XR2i (1AFA) to FRST (OFAC)...
1) Pin no. 8 (brown) needs moving to pin 27, which is empty (CO adjuster signal wire)
2) Pin no. 27 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin no. 45
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
But... only on some conversions it seems!
Some work plug and play and others need the above doing, maybe there are some subtle differences in the ECU/loom's of different years I don't know?! But I guess if it doesn't work one way then try it the other! lol
Karlos.
1) Pin no. 8 (brown) needs moving to pin 27, which is empty (CO adjuster signal wire)
2) Pin no. 27 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin no. 45
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
But... only on some conversions it seems!
Some work plug and play and others need the above doing, maybe there are some subtle differences in the ECU/loom's of different years I don't know?! But I guess if it doesn't work one way then try it the other! lol
Karlos.
There are definitely differences in the XR3i EFi looms, mine is a late loom and the pins were already in the correct location. I tripple checked today and I haven't made any changes.
Lee
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