BigPeBe

Transit flywheel with machined to fit a Sierra flywheel should be able to take 240 mm clutch. Actually now reading this from Skogenracing I recall reading about this modification on another forum too, just needed to help my memory a little bit.

Or if I can't find a Transit flywheel, blingfactory.fi also sells new Pinto flywheels for 240 mm clutches. Quite expensive, but still a possibility at some point.

mancs

That sound good, but what transit engine?

BigPeBe

I'm thinking Pinto. If it comes to that, I'll be doing more research ofc.

therealpinto

Hi, long time lurker but few posts...

I am also running a Pinto turbo (has been since 1999 or so actually), and I like your progress

My experience from clutches is that it is worth going to the 240 mm clutch, it's easier to build something that works. I now run a Sachs 695 (I think) pressure plate and a 6-pad sprung center sinter in my Capri, it does not slip. The car is dynoed at 280 whp and 400 Nm at 1.8 bar, but that's on petrol and really low compression so all power is basically above 4000 rpm so it doesn't load the clutch too much.

If you want a cheap clutch plate that holds up for the 215 mm one, look at the "Black Magic" iron sintered plate that VW places sell. It's not nice to daily drive though.

Anyway, I am planning a new engine for next year (more compression, better head etc.) and I have a Newman PH4.5 on the shelf. I was planning to swap that out for a cam with less overlap but I am a bit interested in how you experience that cam?

Ideally, if you could do a MS log just giving gas from a rolling start I could compare the boost buildup with what I have now.

Regards

Gustaf

BigPeBe

Thank for the tip, "nice to drive" isn't something I'm concerned with. Which also brings me to the question about the cam, TBH the engine feels like a competition engine and requires an "experienced" foot to get off smoothly without stalling. "Smoothly" is an over statement tho. Low speed traffic driving is a jerky experience. From 3000 rpm onwards easy to drive, but below a bit of a bitch. So if someone asks for a cam that should be nice to drive on a road car, I wouldn't recommend. Higher compression and an engine management with more precise spark control would probably help a lot (ie. wasted spark instead of the TFi dizzy that I have). Needs a very good spark and fuel map to not be bouncy on low rpm/ low load conditions.
I am very happy with the cam choice myself, but I'm a little weird that way...

On the atmo engine I had the BP300 which is a lot more aggressive cam, but it was actually MUCH easier to drive. But being N/A it also had more compression so it's hard to compare.

About the boost, if you want I can make some logs sure, but from memory I can say now that I hit the desired boost level at 4000 or so rpm and the engine pulls nicely holding steady boost to the limiter at 7200 (power starts to taper at ~6000 rpm). So despite the bitchy off cam area the engine has a wide power curve after it gets going.

-EDIT- About the clutch, do you mean the 200 mm black magic clutch plate that is used in air cooled VW's? Is it a straight fit?

therealpinto

Thanks, then I should probably follow my initial plan with a cam that has less overlap. Right now I use Swedish Nisse Hedlund grind, NH206, and I like that. But it is getting worn (I have used it for over 15 years). I have Kent FR34 in another car and I that would suit my needs.

My current engine is quite behaved in low revs but lacks power - I want a streetable engine with a broader rev range.

My management is MS3, with a crank sensor and an EDIS coil, via a quadspark module. There are build threads on Retrorides and Capripower if you want to see more.

I just checked, and I ordered a 8.5" with a 1" x 23 spline disc, from a guy called Shawn Geers, Geers Engineering (http://www.geersengineering.com/).

Regards

Gustaf

BigPeBe

Thank for the tip, I'll definitely bookmark that. I did some googling on sintered iron plate clutch disks. Even tho I didn't see anyone listing this size disc, I have a hunch that a lot of these racing oriented engineering firms can probably produce one for order.

IIRC FR34 is similar to Burton BF134 that I had on my other turbo engine. It's a bit mild for my taste, but definitely recommended if you want to make a very streetable engine. Also retarding this cam quite a lot will transform the engine completely, it doesn't loose any of the drivability low down but will make the engine rev much higher. IE. on manufacturer spec timing it stopped pulling at 6300 or so, but with retarted timing I saw 7800 rpm on few of the datalogs... I settled for 7300 rpm limiter at that point. So will yield for a very wide power range with a perfectly sized turbo and enough boost.

therealpinto

Thanks for the cam info, I'll for sure try to retard it and see what happens.

The aim for the new engine is indeed a broader power band, to make it easier to do track racing and some drifting, and make the dragracing starts easier. I don't need a whole lot more power than now (TBH, I'd settle for what I have), so I think a milder cam will suit that build.

Regards

Gustaf

BigPeBe

Been busy lately, quick recap following.

Drivetrain out:


Ordered a clutch from retro-ford.co.uk

It's a TTV racing clutch that bolts directly to Pinto flywheel.

Changed the followers and cam to Pipercams BP300
Took a pic while timing the cam.


While the engine was out, I changed all the bottom end gaskets (just in case).


Changed to bigger injectors 670cc -> 1100 cc.

Harder engine mounts:

I bought these from a private seller, but dunno who made / makes them. Apparently they are "race" mounts.

Old loose as fuk gearbox mounting rubber went to the bin. I then made a bushing out of a junior hockey puck and welded the transmission mount to accommodate it.

Washers can be used to adjust the gearbox install height if necessary.

My cars:

Oh and yes, currently my daily is a Volvo.

Removed the rear axle from the white Sierra.

This axle has disc brakes and 7.5" diff with better LSD.

Shiny parts:

Diff and rear beam will be hard mounted to the body.
I ordered these from Anembo engineering.

Rear axle out from the red one.


The lesser rear axle was installed on to the white car, so it can be moved on it's wheels.
So now the red one has discs at rear.

I had to remove the camber shimming plates from the rear axle before installing, because I will be keeping the stock ride height.

Also swapped the front brakes from car to car.
So this red one now has "V6" discs with Ferodo trackday-type pads.


Flywheel surface was machined flat and installed to the back of the engine with a new set of ARPs.


And the ah so sexy clutch:

Transmission will still be the old familiar type9.

Drivetrain back in, some random stuff getting installed back on.

I will probably be getting a stronger box at some point, but that will happen with the next big engine upgrade that I'm already planning.

Robbed the 3" exhaust from the white one and welded some better hangers.


I chopped one of my old turbo manifolds and used the pieces to make a new one.
Shortening the collector and enlarging the wastegate hole.


When this pic was taken the engine was still on a stand. So I did my best to match the exhaust flange to the ported head.


Then I started cutting some bends and spot welding the manifold.
Starting to take shape:

It was my intention to make a manifold that would be simple in desing, but better flowing than a log-type or a basic cast manifold. Hopefully a good compromise between longetivity and performance.

Some other pics while it was starting to take shape:



Wastegate found it's place too.


Didn't yet get to practice making a collector, because I was able to use the old one, but it was still a full days job. Very pleasant work tho.

After it found it's final shape, I took it to a friend who did the final welding, while I was building an engine to his mk2 Golf with VW KR 16V themed turbo engine.
Some paint finished the job.


Breather tank and wastegate solenoid found their place.


Some test fitting so I can modify rest of the piping to fit the new turbo location.




Boost pipe and oil return only required a small modification, but the downpipe neede a whole new shape for the upper part.

That weird thing on the downpipe is an exhaust scavenge pipe and a one way valve. It should create a suction and will be connected to the valve cover breather.
The breather tank is connected to the block breather, just in case the exhaust scavenge set will not work correctly, so I won't pop any gaskets.

Fabricated a support for the exhaust manifold.

I welded little mounts to the exhaust manifold, so the support bolts up to the manifold and the support rests on a exhaust hanger that is on a engine mount.
I'm hoping this combined with the well hanged exhaust will prevent the manifold from cracking constantly.

Everything slowly getting back together.


Car out of garage.




Some pics:





Needed some little adjustments to Megasquirt to make it idle etc.
Then we installed the bonnet back on and went for a little test drive and even managed to make some quick datalogs.
It appears that the new 50 mm wastegate gives about 0.6 bar of boost as is. Feels peppy like this too, but I can't wait to ~triple the boost.

Sadly before I can enjoy it more I have to get the modifications approved by the Finnish MOT system, which involves something I have always found absolutely disgusting (byrocracy). But it will be done.

This is no longer my "daily". More like my fun time street sleeper car.
If anyone is wondering, the white Sierra hasn't been abandoned. But the plans for it won't include getting it MOT'd for the street anymore. This project won't start for some time now thought, because I'm simply too busy with other car related projects. It will get some attention at later date.

-EDIT- Photobucket can go fuc themselves. I'm gonna edit the first post of this topic to show a quick recap on the history of the car.

-EDIT2- Quick recap of current spec:
205 block, Cossie pistons & rods
Ported OHC head with 44.5 & 38 valves.
Crane single springs, hard pad followers, Pipercams BP300 (292/12.57)
T34.64 Ebay turbo, 50 mm wastegate.
Lightened flywheel.
TTV Racing 4-puck clutch.
Megasquirt 1 V2.2 with TFi & boost control mods.
EV14 1100 cc injectors.
Sytec 044 fuel pump, 8 mm plastic fuel lines.
Running on E85 fuel.
Gonna map this for about 1.5 to 1.8 bar of boost.

Quick rack.
7.5" diff that has tighter fluids inside the LSD unit to make it hook.
Disc brakes at rear.
Front brakes are V6 type discs with Ferodo "trackday" pads.
"Race" engine and transmission mounts.
Diff and rear beam hard mounted to the chassis.

rooos

cool!
great job! love it...
keep us posted man!

BigPeBe

Thanks, I will.