changed the oil on my cossie now oil plug will not tighten up no threads {update }
 

Just changed the oil today was a little stiff taking the sump plug out anyway changed the oil attempted to put sump plug back in just keeps spinning i put my finger in the sump hole no threads so what do i do now.

Helicoil (spelling) re thread . :wall:

What are the chances of that happening??!!

Have you changed the oil on this car before? It must have been trucked before this event. As Harris says, drill, tap and helicoil.

Sump off time....

no never changed it thought i would freshen it up for the summer

I would advice against doing it in situ like some people do, take the sump off so it can be cleaned out when you do it.

how easy is to get the sump off

Not very easy TBH, on my 3 door I have to drop the subframe down a bit for clearance etc.

As chip says, remove.

Dont want any swarf or cack in there if you can help it.

Not too bad from memory, got to drop the cross member as I recall.

Will be worth your efforts dude

As per above, front crossmember I should have said not subframe, apologies for any confusion, too used to clios and vauxhalls etc these days, lol

While its off, its worth getting it big winged TBH

It sounds like you have worked on one too many FWDers chip! Poor fella!

Haha, a helicoil will ending costing him 100's with the fabrication, but well worth considering as it's coming off!!

Or dear Mulla.You could try to helicoil it if not i would be looking for another sump.Wont be a nice job to do.

I think our workshop has done a job like that with the sump still on but they put a gallon of diesel in the top of the engine to flush the sump then let it stand for a few hours to drain.

I've done one with the sump fitted before.
I repaired it then filled it full of oil and drain it straight away (without starting) the oil brings any crap out with it.

Never had a problem

will try this

99/100 times you'll be fine doing that.

You'll know if yours is the other one when the bottom end starts knocking its tits off and writes the crank off, and then the swarf from that writes off the head and the turbo and you realise that only the cam cover on your engine is now actually of any use.

Ie there is only a small risk of it going wrong, but if it does go wrong its likely to go VERY wrong.

I have this same problem. My sump on the saff weeps. I have a spare to fit. Just waiting for engine to die first

Fit a new sump, i had the same problem with my 3 door couple of years back, wouldnt be botherd with a helicoil!!

You can go up one size on the plug and make new threads whitout any helicoil. Have done this on 2 sumps, one on car and one removed

Why spend £50 on a new sump rarther than £10-15 on a helicoil? Once it's helicoiled it will never need messing with again as the insert is much stronger than the poxy alloy threads anyway! :top:

i would nt use a helicoil either,
when i got my car it had a helicol fitted and tbh it was shit, ok it prob was nt fitted correctly in the first place,
i fixed mine by fitting a metal insert and threaded the same as my bung,
better then new now

Helicoils are so good that a lot of parts are helicoiled as standard in the aviation industry!! If it isn't fitted correctly then no doubt it will be crap, any engineering shop worth it's salt could fit one correctly, they are easy to fit!!

id just weld it up an redrill the alloy rather than bin it for a newer one

I'd just remove the sump and weld a new fitting in place

Joe at GSMOTOSPORT sorted mine out for me when he built my new engine, he fitted alot larger thread/bolt and grinded a sleve off my gearbox so it would fit, looks factory too !! awsome job:top:

im going to have a look at it today thereb is some thread there just vwont tighten up

Re-drill and tap bigger, fill with oil drain and then happy days. Have done a few bikes and cars the same way:smile:

drill the hole with some thick oil in the sump, that way the shavings wont get thrown up to the crank

I wouldn't even risk leaving any metal in there - an engine build is a lot more than supporting the engine and removing the crossmember and doing the job correctly - even if you have to buy a support

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-Engin...item3a577f2eba

surely this will run out the hole?! need to be very thick oil!!!

the drill bit will stop most of it coming out, 2 man job really has you need someone to put the oil in has you got the drill in position, the oil actually makes for a smoother bore,then just drain the oil then flush with oil

Stick a helicoil in, as said done right you will have no problems, we use them regularly when building water/ oil pumps, the pumps cost upward of £1 million each and are expected to last 50+ years, bodging them is not an option.

Vcoil do some decent thread repair kits now

got a plumber in the family ask him if he has got any iron pipe fittings they are odd sizes and tapered have done this before

i have tryed all bits of old bolts today still pushed it back in the garage helicoil it is just need to no were u get them from

Find out what size you need and get a kit off ebay. You get a drill bit, tap and helicoil.
My Focus was done by a garage with it in situe (the old plug had siezed in).

I did mine without removing it, as said above I just loosened the cross member to lower the engine a little to gain access for the tap, I used a Hoover during the process and then fitted a hose and a very large funnel to the pipe where the turbo oil return goes into the sump and kept flushing it through, I used about ten ltr's of diesel which didn't go to waste because I filtered it and used it in the transit :oops: I then flushed it through again with some cheap oil just to make sure,

just to note I took the sump off about three months later to weld a boss on for the breather return and there was no sign of any metal swarf any where, I even inspected the oil pump for condition while the sump was off and all was good, but as said it probably is a gamble but one I was willing to take at the time "I'm just lazy"

I taped it out to a larger size and used one of these, its a Valve which has a cap on it you unscrew the cap and attach the hose adapter which open the valve and allows you to do an oil change without any mess, I have even done an oil change without having to jack the car up:top:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-/100_0804.jpg

With the cap on
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-/100_0803.jpg

And the hose adapter
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...-/100_0806.jpg

either helicoil or use a timesert, much better than a helicoil, but a helicoil will suffice
it wouldnt bother me at all doing it in situ ive done countless audi and vw's in situ and never had a problem just be methodical in the flushing of the sump with diesel

Timesert or go up a size block the breathers and connect air line to pressurise the crank case that will blow out swarf as it comes free

id Helicoil. you get a steel thread then, we use them at work and theyre spot on

want to do it to moro only found machine mart which has the kit was £50 but not the exact same size as my sump bolt theres are the same as a spark plug thread.