As above seen a few people ( saff cossies ) mostly running these instead of the amal valve ? is there any advantages of doing so other then easy adjustment my connector has recently broken off for the wires for the amal valve and it got me thinking of a bleed valve , plus my 500 cooler has left my amal sitting rather crap ( bracket needed i know ) anyways is it time for the amal to go , or is it better to keep troops

Basically is there any problems on ditching the amal for a bleed valve

 

i think they do thew job i ran one but found a lot of cossie peeps giving me greif about it lol i cant remeber the reason they were tho lol

 

Bleed valves arent ideal IMHO as they encourage wastegate creep, if you want to use any sort of manual device, use a manual boost controller instead mate.

 

Cheers matey i know what u mean

Is that carlos old car ? i remember it well Hes one of my mates if it is It used to run a bleed valve if i remember right

 

as per chip, if replacing the amal valve ( why i dont know as that sets the charateristics of comming on boost too) then go manual boost controller at a min

 

Yes it was carlos car mate and there is no bleed valve on it at the moe infact there aint much on it lol.

 

hi mate , a bleed valve is not a relacement for a amal valve, the amal valve is realy a electronic bleed, most tunners only use bleed valves for getting a better power curve best option is new actuater -31 with amal and -34 with out amal. also only use brass bleeds and not anodised

andy

 

Riight , so why is a -34 without amal ok and not with a -31 exscuse my stupidity

 

i have a brass valve thin poss bleedvalve with a lockin nut got it from halfords for 16 quid been on for 9 months been ok

 

do you actually understand bleed valves

 

Might just keep the amal and replace the wires , seems like alot of hassle for nothing

cheeers anyway guys

 

ok mate .. -31 is a progresive actuater and gives a nice smooth power curve and starts at around 5 to 7 psi now the amal valve takes up alot of slack from the actuater spring so you dont have to wind the actuater up much.
but if you had no amal and used a -31 you would have to wind the actuater spring up loads and the spring wouldent last long
ok part 2.. -34 starts at 14 psi and comes in with a big bang so has a very strong spring so you dont need much wind on the actuater..my s2 spikes at 17 and holds about 14 psi with - 34 and no amal
sorry its abit complicated but thats whats this forums all about .. learning


andy

 

No probs morto , cheers

 

the amal valve jets control the spike and the peak though, hence the 3 ports

thats why i asked, just a actualtor is NO boost control at all as such

stick with a amal valve and a -34 as you already got and make sue you use a proper tuner who dont think that no boost controll is a good idea

 

btw the actuator should not be used to control the boost just hold at 14psi/7psi depending on the actuator

the boost control is based on the BOOST CONTROLER device

amal valve, bleed valve or boost controller ( they dont bleed air btw)

 

rabmc.. my car was set up by kenny at motorsport developments , i asked for a -31 and stu said ,, no amal valve -34 so what im saying is correct mate

andy

 

so stu set your cossie up with no amal valve and just a -34

rememeber that the cossie amal valve PULSES to control STEADY boost

my car was also set up by stu and he never unbolted my amal valve but maybe hes changed hsi system that he done last year

 

b19bal this is my car mate





andy

 

dontn look like a cossie with proper boost control to me

unless its cossie managed

 

Guys i have a t34 500 cooler etc , running 22psi holding about 20 aat best

Would a -34 be a direct replacment for a my -31 any help appreciated on this ? I will be buying a new one regardless and would go -34 if it would be stronger or better suited to my spec ? going to get it set up with a bit more boost

 

its an old girl now, done over 120.000 but thers fuck all out ther thats any good as im not dead keen on saffys
im saving up for a escort cossy but i might be an old man by then

andy

 

Mate, the amal valve is there for a reason!!

Keep it!!

 

i know the car mate

as said a new chip from stu as that boost must be for the old chip and then a -34 and set up AT MSD when you purchase the chip, 300 quid later and you got a fucking fast car ( mines the same spec spiking 28 holding 25psi and i know the diff is man enough for it )

 

LOL u know my car ehh , dunno if thats good or bad

Anyways shes running sweet so thats something , would i not be able to run any more boost on that chip

Yeah the diffs okk too

 

dont know what chip it is but i would never run ANY chip unless it was made by stu, just cause my car was transformed TOTALLY !!!!

 

MMMmmm intresting

 

btw i dont do placebo's either hence why i admit it changed the car

not saying mine wa perfect as my car had issues that not even stu could sort out on no budget but the chip and the set up was perfect and spot on, he evem managed to reduce the 8 foot flames that the car was kicking out with the old ahmed chip

if ypu wanna borrow my MSDchip to test and got a place to check the fueling then i dont mind sending it to ya to see if you enjoy the lower fuel consumption

 

sorry to butt in!

is there any difference at all between these two methods of boost control?

- compressor, straight to actuator. Boost set via actuator spring.
- compressor, straight to actuator with bleed valve.

What would differ between those setups?

I realise running the bleed valve means you can use less pre-load on the actuator therefore lengthing its life, but other than that any differnces?

I'm guessing the bleed-valve setup would have a slower boost climb rate (due to wastegate creep?)....whereas running straight to actuator should let the boost build quick and then hold there?

ty!

 

as the bleed valve bleeds off the air it will allow higher boost before it opens, with a strong actuator you run the risk of it getting stuck more due to tension and also theres no real controled boost either

if it was just that cut and dry why would you use air injectors/boost controlers/amal valves or even bleed valves ?

also theres only soo far the tension can set the boost and you can get uncontrolable spikes

this is just what i found playing with amal valve jets so it could be all wrong


the amal valve pulses to regulate the boost from the ecu, it dont just open and and shut when too much boost is there hence why there soo good compared to a bleed valve

i belive that matt has a bleed valve and a amal valve to help his 400bhp conversion ratehr than air injectors but his car was set up by a bloke who knows his mustard

 

btw in order for the actuator to hold 14psi im sure theres gonna be some sort of creep at lower boost otherwise it will actually hold boost higer

that would cause a slower spool up due to the creep opening the actuator a little before full boost is there surly

 

I have run a bleed valve on my cossie for years, and it's never caused me a single problem..................... as I have had it set, and just leave it the fook alone

 

some people use a "dawes" device as a mechanical boost control to good effect.

 

the bleed valve isnt no form of boost control its does allow creep though

just the actuator aint a good idea though ( on a cossie !!!)


rich why not use a amal valve though or do you use both ?, general question as to why not judging

 

Rab your car goes fine mate fix the wires going to the amal valve
I run a bleed valve on ma escort & my magenta saph with no hastles
then i put one on my moonstone 2wd & had nothing but bother boost spiking
You will end up changing actuators n fekin about with bleed valves n never be out from under the bonnet been there

 

Ginge,

My amal valve was broken, I had a bleed valve to hand. It was fitted, boost set, job done.

 

what about on a erst? because the amal on a RST isn't boost control is it, more a fail-safe?

mechanical boost control + actuator seems to be the best budget control imo

 

EXACTLY. probs occur when people "need more boost"

My car now has one and its taped up to fuck so noone can touch it

 

no probs accour when the boost spikes or when it creeps hence why a amal valve is the better option over a bleed valve

as for a erst i would personally use a manual boost controller by turbosmart as that dont bleed off air but its a valve that stays shut UNTIL the boost you set is there then it opens and leave the actuator to do its proper job

but then i talk shite so dont listen to me

 

Ginge, Chopski's bleed valve was fitted by someone who knows a bit more about turbos than you.

Hard to believe, I know!



Neil.

 

yeah but wasnt hes car originaly set up by karl norris

also cant argue with the points i made about em