....asking very specialist questions today.

Just won a plate on E-Bay that apparently you use to beef up the front diff...as far as i can see you undo the bottom cover and put this in then put cover back on using longer bolts....Can this be done in situ BTW?

What power level does this take the front diff too?

 

it can be done in situe, but you will notice that you need to drill out the M6 bolt holes and re-tap them for M8 bolts aswell

also there was some debate about these "strengthening" plates working or not as a few people blew front diff cases in bits with them on

 

yes

 

forgot to add - the propper way to do it is a quaiffe thickwall casing using standard CWP and other bits inside

 

Why cant i just use longer M6 bolts mate?

 

Phil, while the plate undoubtedly reinforces the crownwheel area of the diff housing, the weakness of the standard case is down the line of the pinion.
The ONLY way to remedy this is go for a stronger case.

 

Phil - you could use the longer M6 bolts if you wished, but you will find the holes on the plate are for M8 bolts

 

We have a Quaife thick wall ATB diff with the strengthening plate fitted. The plate is doweled to the casing and the threads are M8 with longer bolts to fit through the plate and the cover. The plate is quite thick IIRC.

 

So to sum up do i have to go from M6 to M8 or is the case M8?

 

Case is M6

 

...so the question is CAN I USE LONGER M6 bolts?

 

Yes but you will still have potential for movement on the bolt holes in the plate. Unless it's doweled to stop it moving, is there any point in fitting it with M6 bolts?

 

Phil, the plate derives it's strength from the material it is made of (usually stainless steel IIRC) AND the 8mm holes/bolt combination not allowing enough movement to crack the casing. If you use 6 mm bolts - then there is 2mm of movement being allowed Thats enough to crack the diff casing even with the plate in place.

 

...ok so i guess diff out job!

Cheers guys all new to me 4x4.

 

Just a quickie, does drilling out the Diff casing to allow for the 8mm bolts not weaken that

 

The rapid one FUCK OFF


So basically maybe just bin it?

 

 

Only problem in re-drilling and tapping the standard case is that there isn't much meat around the holes, so by going for a stronger bolt you weaken the case!
The Quaife thickwall case has thicker walls (strangely ) and M8 holes as standard. You then drill the lid to suit.
As I stated earlier, it is the PINION area of the case that splits, so any action in the area we are currently discussing, is probably irrelevant...

 

Can't you drill and tap the diff in situe? If it's the front diff then all the bolt holes face the floor. Piece of piss for a non retard or even a semi retard.

 

Heres the results of a NON thickwall diff casing trying to cope with my Stage 3 launch technique...........

I really did'nt wanna do that........

 

Where do you get off on the insults towards me Daz? I keep quiet but you always having a dig.

 

Phil, I hardly ever reply to your topics so how can you even say I am having digs at you?

All I am trying to say is, it's not as hard as you might think it is. Just arm yourself with the correct tools and knowledge, but from what Bernie has said, it doesn't sound like it's worth it.

 

That always amazed me about H1 4ORD no matter how hard I launched it (think it fair to say I launched reasonably hard ) Diff never went and that was STANDARD

Wouldve replaced with a thickwall jobbie IF it ever went but wernt broke so never bothered fixing it

 

Rapid 1....how much power was you putting thru that front diff?

Ok Daz but i seen a couple of what i thought sly comments about my mechanical skills..even though i do most myself..ok bodge myself.

 

Err about 450bhp on engine with another 150 bhp gas to err aid launches

Enough to get good 3 sec 0-60's in ANYBODYS books

 

...what about gearbox and rear diff any problems or uprated?

 

Gearbox YES had an appetite for them std only lasted a few launches but normally 2nd and mostly third that would get eaten

Got a quiafe big tooth box in the end, that lasted one year and then destroyed 5th without even giving it too much grief (was second hand when i got it) got it rebuilt by Bernie and was sold two years latter still going strong
(this is the box I used when I did my 2.99 so not as bad as everyone thinks from first to second )


Rear diff was also standard (again lol) just never seemed to have the time or money to uprate things that wouldnt break

 

...well i am considering big tooth box but engine could well be around 600bhp in the future so not sure if it would be any good..although i dont really launch or monte thrash the car like you boys..so possibly ok???

Looks like you had around 600bhp on NOS and still not break diffs May have to put this to the test on mine before i shell out!!!

 

I don't remember ever making comments about your mechanical skills to be honest.

 

Ye recon your maths is ok

Just my experience, cant say thick walls etc aint worth it, just I wernt gonna replace mine untill they broke which they never did

Ok was gonna replace them regardless even when they wernt broke but was told that they couldnt guarantee them that I wouldnt break them on my first launch, so thought what was the point of doing them unnecessarily

On the gearbox front what makes you think you would break a big tooth, tis one of the stronger boxes for the sort of money they cost, ok know you could spend more but the bigger benefit you would get is quicker changes as said didnt break mine after it had been rebuilt properly

 

thing is when the front diff splits it's casing it sometimes moves the diff mounting points on the sump making it s sump change as well as a diff... sump change in situ is not nice . thickwall casing is worth fitting before this happens!

 

You can say that again!! Been there, done that...

Everyone said to drop the engine, box and suspension out to do it. Next time I'll listen to them

Neil.

 

Cool, but where to get it at decent price

 

I did wonder about that actually. I thought this would be the case.

I can't see changing the sump in situe being a nice job with a ramp never mind on your back on the driveway/garage!

 

It isn't nice. Been there done that :-(

 

You have my symapthy!!

 

Phil do it properly 1st time and don't try to take any cheap short cuts with the transmision!
Proper thick walled front diff casing and a proper big tooth box are essential IF you are going to go to the torque levels you say you are.

 

Still much better then brake pump/master cylinder removal and reffiting. (on LHD car).

But thx.


Any ideas how to set-up quad headlights? Left hand side seams to need some medical equipment instead of mechanic's equipment to get there....

 

Key hole surgery?