here's one for you techy people...

what is the best way to get more power out of a turbo diesel?

anybody know any good tricks? i'm bored of my nova runaround

 

In the case of that particlar diesel, i honestly wouldnt bother, they are rubbish, just fit an isuzu 1.7 TD lump or better still an XE which will still do 40+mpg anyway!

 

its the isuzu 1.5... i'm sticking with it til it goes wrong, then i'll throw a 1.7 in.

not going the xe route, this one needs to run on diesel

 

LOL

Cherry rocks

 

indeed it does, now how do i make it faster?

 

THIS IS A CUT AND PASTE - NOT MY OWN EXPERIENCE





Increasing boost on a 1.5TD Izuzu engine as found in the Corsa and Nova up to about 1997

The mods are quiet easy if you are any good at turning a spanner.

You will need:


10mm ring spanner

10mm socket and long extension (not essential)

1/2 inch 0r 13mm ring spanner (it will need to be short)

sharp stanley knife

small torch

pair of pliers

hammer

screwdrivers, big, small and short (all flat bladed)

Boost gauge ( would be handy to check before and after boost pressure)

About 2 hours of free time depending how good you are with the spanners !!!!

Look down the back of the inlet manifold, you will see the injection pump, on the top of it is a cover held on by 4 x 10mm bolts which has a rubber hose attached to it.



you can pull the hose off by hand, undo the back two bolts with the socket, the front two can be reached with the 10mm spanner, once you have loosened the bolts you can undo them with your fingers.
a fuel pipe bracket is attached to one of the back bolts, gently bend it up about 5-10mm, it is then possible to twist the cover round slightly and pull it off.

Once the cover is off look at the inside of it and you will see a dimple in the middle, just rest the cover on a vice or something flat and hard and hammer the dimple until it is flat, it takes a few hits with the hammer to achieve this.

Back to the car now, look at were the cover came off and you will see a rubber diaphram, gently push a small screwdrive down the side of it and you will find it is possible to lift it up until it hits the bottom of the inlet manifold, if you get a torch and shine it through the gaps between the inlet manifold from the front looking through the gaps you will see the small white ring that sits below the diaphram, just hold the diaphram up with one hand and with the other take the stanley knife and reaching over the manifold you can get to the white ring and cut through the side of it, take the pliers and pull the ring off.

Put the cover back on and re-attach the pipe.

Looking down the back of the inlet manifold again look at the injection pump and on the right as you look at it there is a cover (anti-tamper cover) which on my car was a gold/silver colour, under it is the max fuel screw, you can tell by the shape that it could have a nut and screw under it, on mine it was possible to turn it around with a pair of mole grips.

This was the hardest bit getting the cover off, it is designed to just be pushed on and never come off, it took about 15 minutes with a hammer, screwdriver and pliers to get it off, don't hit it to hard as the screw is under it (well don't go to nutty but you have to hit it pretty hard) I ended up knocking it out of shape so I could get a small screwdriver down the back of it and lever it off.

Once it is off look were the slot in the screw is pointing and mark the pump with tippex or white paint so that you know the original position of the screw (just a safety precaution) loosen the lock nut while holding the screw still with a short screwdriver, once the lock nut is loose turn the screw 1/2 turn clockwise and lock up the nut.

Nearly there now.

Next the actuator, look at the front of the engine find the exhaust and turbo, on the right of the turbo you will see a rubber pipe, get the pliers and release the clips on each end and remove the pipe (one end of the pipe can be reached from the top the other end from under the car.)

cut the pipe in half then fit the bleed valve in the middle (this will be a snug fit with the standard pipe) when u go for a little drive u will hear the boost guvnor (that little circular thing on the inlet manifold you could never work out what it was) will probly 'blow' at arond 4k rpm with the bleed valve fully open (the actuator wont be doing anything to restrict the boost), u need to vent off 'a little' boost from the bleed valve 'when this is set correctly,' you will be getting max boost (around 16 odd psi or 1.2 bar) and loads of smiles



I have a boost gauge so I could check the before and after boost pressure, I have decided to limit the boost to 1 bar.
before boost pressure was 1/2 bar (7psi)

Now get in the car and drive around the block and be amazed at the difference.

boy does she go, at 2500 rpm it just revs up so fast, 2nd and 3rd gear is amazing, motorway acceleration is also much improved.

The idle speed will need lowering as the extra fuelling will cause it to be high, there are two things that need doing, it is easy to see were the idle screw is, this is just a lock nut and screw on a bracket that the throttle arms rests on, there is also a cold start high idle (bit like a petrol choke) which raises the idle speed when the engine is cold, it is a linkage just behind were the idle screw is, it is also a locknut and screw, just adjust the screw so that there is about 2-3 mm gap between it and the throttle arm.



original thread here:
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=147817

 

The above info isnt bad actually, but be aware that when you increase the fuel delivery, the boost will normally go up as well due to teh fact diesel adds heat (Unlike Petrol), so do it incrementally.

 

Stu.

My Dads got the Vectra V6 cdti

I think that has got an Izuzu engine in

What are these like to tune up as he has been askin me about chipping it up and he was wondering what sort of benifits he would get from it ??

 

Around 30bhp, 45lb of torque and improved fuel economy. Price retail is normally Ł450. Do it for Ł375 this month.

 

Thanks for that Stu, not sure if it would be this month but i will let him know.

 

ive been driving a focus tdi (new one) all week, fook me that goes well

torque steers abit when giving it beans too

just wondering though, its got a flay hesitent spot at 4k then accelerates just after, whats the reason for that

 

Drive a 135 Transit Ginge. They have a hesitant spot all the time when you want power. It's like it's got turbo lag but the turbo is tiny. Still amusing on a wet roundabout though.

 

well the focus handbrakes well easy as theres a tight turn i have to do and the handbrake is PERFECT for it

the focus has a flat spot though as it slows then speeds up again

quite anoying when you are trying to overtake fucking bendy busses


oh and the ranger has a hooges flat spot, there twice as slow as a fucking transit , such a cool truck to drive with all the options ect but then its spoiled by being slower than a cycle

bosswas telling me he had 110mph out of it, mustnhave been a fucking long road as i managed to get 105 with my foot FLAT to the floor from the dartford tolls to epson junction and thats the max it done

 

The smokers gonna get it now!!!!
Cheers