hi all was just wondering what people think about the theory that its best to start your engine and drive off straight away?
as the most engine wear is from cold to the engines temp, so by driving off as soon as you start is better as it gets to operating temp quicker..
is this correct or not?

thanks
andy

 

i let my taxi warm up before i drive it - usually about 5 to 10 mins to get the coolant upto temp, then steady driving for 10 mins or so to get the oil to temp


the diesel shitter gets started and ragged from cold tho

 

ive heard of peeps doing both some say its bad to let a cossie sit idleing i dunno i let mine warm up lol

 

i always let my cars warm up.

Deffo do not high rev one when still cold.

Let everything get hot before booting it.

 

i think it's just best to let the oil temps get to their normal level before driving hard, regardless of leaving it or driving it straight away, but as above my van gets ragged from cold

 

I just start up and drive. Do take it gentle though until the oil has had time to come up to temperature. Then it's rev limiter in every gear

 

general warmup procedure for my fiesta diesel rotbox

picture the situation

its 3am on a cold wet and windy morning, the temperature is 5 celcius and there is a nip in the air.
the key is inserted, the engine starts, i slowly reverse down the driveway onto the road.
once on the road, first gear is engaged and off i drive upto the speed limit, holding it in 1st gear as long as i can - why? because the fooking heaters are still blowing cold, but by the time i get to the end of the street, 800 yards away, they are blowing warm

 

my mate used to have one of those BMW Mini Cooper things, in his manual it said not to let the car warm up at idle

 

I start the RST up and drive it, slowly until warm. If idling, I rev it to 2k and leave it there for 5 - 10 mins or so I guess, then another 5 mins casual driving.

The fiesta get's ragged from any temp

 

Usually just turn it on and drive off, but as a rule of thumb i never go above 3000rpm untill the temp gauge is "halfway".

Just summit ive always done really

 

I've always heard it is best to drive it slowly and at fairly low revs until warm. If you let it idle up to temp then givew it death immediately you will kill a lot of gearboxes and diffs

 

Cossies just dont go well at all when cold, simple as that

 

The best thing to do is let the car idle for about two minute's to get some heat into the engine, then drive of slowly using a short shift method of changing gear until the car is at it's best operating temperature.

 

quite a few people warming up before ragging off then.

 

thats what i got told by stul idle for 1 to 2 mins then drive gentle, leaving it idle is bad for oil presure


as i used to pop out start car and set turbo timer for 10 mins, pop back in and finish my Tea, when i heard the alarm going off then i pop out and the car was all warm including heaters


fook me did i use petroll that way though

leaving the car is the same, dont rag the car and leave idle, rag the car THEN drive gentle unltill the temps are normal then park and leave to idle for 2 mins


my cabrio gets started in gear and is going forwards before me finger is off the key

 

I give it 10-20 seconds on initial start up then drive below 3k for 10 minutes.

 

my zetec turbo gets driven through 30 mph zones all the way to work and cant see the point warming up because the engie isnt under any load

i just drive along in 4th followng all the other slow gits and just change the oil regular with some fully synthetic stuff

 

I start mine up and just drive slow until everythinis to opertating temp!! Then i still dont boot it for a while after just incase.


My cossie never seems happy when its cold anyway, very lathargic (sp).

 

I've found it takes about 25 - 30 minutes before the oil temp reaches over 80 degrees. In fact after 15 minutes driving it is just registering about 50 degrees C. (although Tim gauages are crap so this could be way out!)

 

turn key let it have a couple of minutes for oil to get rpund the engine fully n then drive steady till its warmed up

 

Engines dont give a fook wether its hot or cold, they should drive and perform virtually the same.

 

mine seems a bit more lathargic Stu! Though it might be me being to much of a pussy with the throttle when its cold! And also i thing my slag of a taxi does like being woken up!

 

aluminium engines(blocks )dont like getting warmed up,in my wifes punto manual it says dont leave your car sitting ticking over for long as the block can warp,and yes its already done that,(warranty claim, its now fixed)!

maybe the BMW mini is the same,they go on fire tho instead!

 

I just start my cars up and drive them, but i dont drive them very hard till they are warmed up.

I dont ever leave idling for a long period from cold though like it sounds like some people do.

 

no wonder the fuckin trains are always late ..

not that i use them by the way ..just throwing a spanner in the works

 

what the FUCK has my car got to do with trains? absolutely FUCKALL

 

the time the staff take to get to work

 

joke ..

well it sounded funny wtih 12 stellas inside me

 

The quicker the engine can warm up the better. Start up is the most criticle time for your engine and it's parts. So by driving it you warm it up faster and plus you save a bit on fuel.

 

i start up and drive off and keep it off boost until oil is to temp

engine might not but the map cares

 

Stu @ M Developments wrote:
Mr Brannen wrote:
Cossies just dont go well at all when cold, simple as that


Engines dont give a fook wether its hot or cold, they should drive and perform virtually the same.


mine seems a bit more lathargic Stu! Though it might be me being to much of a pussy with the throttle when its cold! And also i thing my slag of a taxi does like being woken up!
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Totally agree with Rhys, Stu if you are telling me that a Cossie engine runs as sweet when ice cold as they do when they are up to correct running temperatures then you are wrong matey ,. Understand you are a lot more experienced than me but you can not surely believe what you said there

 

Ok, i bow to your greater knowledge of engines.

It must be crap being a new car salesman eh?
Every car you sell, thousands per year, and the owners all bring em back moaning every day that they dont run as well when cold, and you simply cant do anything about it.

Why would a COLD engine run worse than a hot one exactly? Give me your reasoning behind it instead of telling me i am wrong and rolling your eyes at me. Afford me the same respect i afford you and Educate me...

 

wouldnt run "worse", it would be told to run different though surely.........ect sensor related for one?

piston to bore clearance not taken up?.......when its cold and slapping wouldnt you get more blow by and less compression?

 

Are you suggesting that if you did a cylinder leakage test on your cold YB that it would FAIL the test Matt? Of course it wouldnt. A totally wankered engine may well run worse cold due to lack of compression, but thats kind of irrelevant to teh topic IMO.

The fact is, the cold fuelling and spark tables in most YB engines out there are garbage and need a week or two's mapping to get them a bit more sensible. Or are you all going to tell me your parents BMW's etc all run like shit when cold as well? How about your dads rather sexy new M3 Matt? Other than its ECU induced cold rpm limiter, does it drive noticeably different cold to hot?

 

A standard cosworth mapped by ford ran perfic at all temperatures

 

wasnt suggesting anything of the sort, i was asking if you would get worse compression on a slapping cold yb thats all

ive only driven it once so cant comment on the m3 BUT i very much doubt its any different. on my my test run i did note that the m3 appeared to have a passenger scream "running in" at driver above 5k rev limiter

cassie's clio kangaroo's to fuck when thats cold so hers defo drives differently

 

Matt you'll find that her Renault Clitorous has a fault

 

so what stu is saying is that cossies need the same time spent on em like what ford ect do on new cars to get it perfect


supose the more tuned the engine the more acurate the tollerences are for the running

belive christian said he could map a car but only the general map, not the cold start map ect as that requires alot more skill/experience, though im sure hes able to do that now too

 

A standard cosworth mapped by ford ran perfic at all temperatures
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Yeah but only a handful of people have standard ones now mate, and they are getting on a bit,

 

standard ones apparently werent half the bother you get with stage 3?4 etc....see what Im getting at