Hi, whats the best way to get a strong, reliable 200 bhp, from my near standard (samcos, dump valve/bleed valve) d reg escort rs turbo? Advise please...

 

Intercooler, messing about to overcome the boost limiter, more boost, tune. I've seen so many RST's make 200hp with std cam and turbo so don't say it can't be done.

 

big front mount intercooler, chip to get unlimited boost, modified metering head so u can fuel for 18psi,and mod you fuel ecu so your rev limiter gets raised to 7.2k piper 285t2 cam zorst filter probably be close 200bhp this is set up i have in my xr2 and its more then quick anough for me

 

2.0 zvh ................................. job done

 

Rather expensive and unneccessary way of achieving the goal

Chip, decent intercooler, -31, proper exhaust, air filter and loads of boost should have you pretty close.

 

Mines putting out just under with 198bhp with the following mods...

Stage 2 1600 cvh engine with ported + polished head
Stage 3 Hybrid T3/T4 turbo (Only 4 months old still has paint on it !)
-31 Actuator
Ahmed bayjoo fully mapable chipped ecu (currently peeking at 1.5bar and flatting out at 1)
Full Mongoose stainless steel exhaust system from the turbo back with 3" outwardly rolled tailpipe
Polished bailey dump valve (going soon)
Under bonnet bleed valve
Clear dizzy cap
White RS motorsport rocker cover
S1 low ratio gearbox with lsd
Modified standard airbox

I need an uprated cooler ! How much extra brake do you think i will get by adding one ?

 

currently peeking at 1.5bar and flatting out at 1

Whats up with that? is this something to do with your fully mabable ecu or just dodgy actuator?

A big intercooler will defnetly help as by the time u boot it threw 3rd and change up your acts will be threw the roof, i wouldnt run much more then a bar on std intercooler buy your self and act gauge and see how long it takes for the readings to go off the gauge i reckon it will be off by the time your part way threw 4th, aparently its bad for the engine after 70 oC the gauge i have from scc stops at 69oC

 

Yeah actuator looks really really old so i think i may be bunging in a new one soon, running 1.5 what should it hold ? The strange thing is though flooring it through the gears i dont get any lag what so ever neither does it get that hot ???

Cheers
Sam

 

1.5 bar on a standard intercooler is way too much. I wouldn't like to run more than a bar. The ACT (Air Charge Temperature) and water temp are not the same. Just cos the engine temp is nice and low doesn't mean the ACT's are.

Since the fitment of a full width Pace intercooler I rarely see temps over 33deg on the move whereas on the old Pace unit they used to go off scale by the top of 4th gear. Which is not good for the engine

 

No i meen when i stop i can touch the charge carrier its that cool and thats while the turbos glowing lol

 

u wont have much lag with your tiny i/c, getting a bigger one and u will notice it,

 

Gunna rebuild the bottom end, giant i/c, cossie gt30 hybrid turbo! efi conversion, greens, low comp piston... or am i going a bit over the top?

 

do it, may be more power

 

why


More hassle than there worth unless you got an alot of money IMHO

 

My Series 1 has got:

Chip from Motorsport Developments (fitted myself)
Pro Alloy front mount intercooler
Standard turbo
-31 actuator
bleed valve
KnN
2.5" magnex

It made 198bhp @ 16psi on Well Lane rollers.

 

So mine should defo be kicking out 200+ when i fit the cooler ?

 

cheers for the input people.

 

well i built mine out of a engine that was thrown in a skip (1.8 zvh) total bill for conversion 75 quid as i did it my self it runs 185bhp if the same conversion was done on a 2.0 you would hit the 200bhp figure with out any hassle as i have never had none my self and dont see how you can have any????
as its not running wild boost levels and the rest of the engine is as ford intended

 

boochow

 

so have you made any decisions as to how you wish to achieve your goal???