Buying a Escort RS Turbo ????
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Virgin
Joined: May 2005
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Buying a Escort RS Turbo ????
Hi peeps going to buy an escort rs turbo what things should I look out for?, going to spend about £2000 I've been told to go for the 90's spec because they have so called a better engine not sure if this is true or not and they look a little better. Your words of wizdom will be a great help thanks. 
www.ctuceilings.co.uk
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From: Kent
The engines are the same in any standard S2...
Flo has a point, rust is the biggest thing to look for really. Under teh arches, battery tray, fuse box, floorpan, basically everywhere. Engines are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than bodywork.
I don't think you will get a lot for 2 bags of sand though, you might be lucky.
Good luck
Flo has a point, rust is the biggest thing to look for really. Under teh arches, battery tray, fuse box, floorpan, basically everywhere. Engines are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than bodywork.
I don't think you will get a lot for 2 bags of sand though, you might be lucky.
Good luck
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,349
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From: middlesbrough
they rust on the roof where the tailgate hinges this is a common occurance and behind the sun roof (take a magnat allong),the usual places to check like battery tray area strut tops inside the boot too.
Get your hand up inside the wheel arches to check for rust behind the body kit.
Get your hand up inside the wheel arches to check for rust behind the body kit.
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check for excessive rust on rear chassis,inner and outter sills,battery tray,under both rear body kit arches,bulk head and front panel,
ps @ the end of the day it's a 15yr old Ford (they do rust) IF your unsure take some one with you that does
ps @ the end of the day it's a 15yr old Ford (they do rust) IF your unsure take some one with you that does
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Kent :0(
im no exoert mate...at the end of the day im a chick..i'm not allowed but i know my s2 drove miles better when i got shot...!!!
not only do they sound crap but they made the drive poo too!
If you're a burberry cap, hackett shirt wearing chavemeister aged 17 3/4 then keep the thing but i'd recommend ya dump the dump valve
not only do they sound crap but they made the drive poo too!
If you're a burberry cap, hackett shirt wearing chavemeister aged 17 3/4 then keep the thing but i'd recommend ya dump the dump valve
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
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From: Lincolnshire Home Of The Pothole
Right then mate, I've owned quite a few of these over the years. And what the guys n gals are saying is right:
Basically:
Rot:
Battery tray, inner wings, under bodykit, under wheelarches, chassis legs, look at the boot floor where it joins the rear wheelarches. Stuff like that.
Rust or bubbles behind the sunroof etc as said before.
Bodywork generally:
Look out for accident damage, bad panel gaps, rippled panels or badly painted or mismatching panels, iffy welding particularly at where wings join front panel. Stuff like that.
Ringers: Check all the ID numbers and VIN plates are there and haven't been messed with. VIN plates, chassis tag by the drivers seat on the floor under the plastic flap, and make sure they haven't been cut out and/or replaced. And check the engine number if you can find it.
Check the numbers against the log book and DEFINITELY 100% do an HPI Check before buying it.
Engine. Make sure it starts up cleanly on 4 cylinders hot or cold, doesn't tap (too much, they all do a bit) or clatter. Pulls smoothly and doesn't smoke too much. Normal things for an engine really.
Don't buy one without any history because it's more than likely it's not been looked after or has done more miles than the seller tells you.
Also, amke sure it's got a decent amount of MOT on it as well, if it's only got 3 weeks the chances are the reason is that the seller knows it's going to cost a fortune to get it through another one.
I've got to say it's a bit of a minefield. A lot of the really bad ones will have been scrapped by now. But like some of the other guys said, if you're not confident about what you're looking at take someone else with you.
And the 90 spec car is only cosmetically different really, front bumper, rear spoiler and other minor bits. I do like the 90 spec cars best I must say, but I think it's a case of finding a good car generally rather than just going all out for a 90 spec.
I'll warn you, I would say the majority of these cars have had a bump of some kind or other in their life, even if it's minor, so don't go out thinking you'll get something that looks like it's just come out of the showroom unless you're willing to pay top money.
Get a good one and you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
Get a bad one and you'll wonder why you bothered. 
PS I hope this hasn't put you off, I just want you to go into it with your eyes open. And of course if I didn't love RS cars I wouldn't be here, so that must tell you something.
Basically:
Rot:
Battery tray, inner wings, under bodykit, under wheelarches, chassis legs, look at the boot floor where it joins the rear wheelarches. Stuff like that.
Rust or bubbles behind the sunroof etc as said before.
Bodywork generally:
Look out for accident damage, bad panel gaps, rippled panels or badly painted or mismatching panels, iffy welding particularly at where wings join front panel. Stuff like that.
Ringers: Check all the ID numbers and VIN plates are there and haven't been messed with. VIN plates, chassis tag by the drivers seat on the floor under the plastic flap, and make sure they haven't been cut out and/or replaced. And check the engine number if you can find it.
Check the numbers against the log book and DEFINITELY 100% do an HPI Check before buying it.
Engine. Make sure it starts up cleanly on 4 cylinders hot or cold, doesn't tap (too much, they all do a bit) or clatter. Pulls smoothly and doesn't smoke too much. Normal things for an engine really.
Don't buy one without any history because it's more than likely it's not been looked after or has done more miles than the seller tells you.
Also, amke sure it's got a decent amount of MOT on it as well, if it's only got 3 weeks the chances are the reason is that the seller knows it's going to cost a fortune to get it through another one.
I've got to say it's a bit of a minefield. A lot of the really bad ones will have been scrapped by now. But like some of the other guys said, if you're not confident about what you're looking at take someone else with you.
And the 90 spec car is only cosmetically different really, front bumper, rear spoiler and other minor bits. I do like the 90 spec cars best I must say, but I think it's a case of finding a good car generally rather than just going all out for a 90 spec.
I'll warn you, I would say the majority of these cars have had a bump of some kind or other in their life, even if it's minor, so don't go out thinking you'll get something that looks like it's just come out of the showroom unless you're willing to pay top money.
Get a good one and you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
Get a bad one and you'll wonder why you bothered. PS I hope this hasn't put you off, I just want you to go into it with your eyes open. And of course if I didn't love RS cars I wouldn't be here, so that must tell you something.
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 794
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From: Kent :0(
Prepare for a labour of love my friend as they do try you from time to time!
But....i'd never own anything else!! although a 350z is calling me i'd miss the ford crew too much and i've made too many great friends so i'm sticking with the fords!!
You'll have to post when you find one....would be good to see what you get!
Anything you're not sure of make sure you post...like Trev said you need a goodun!!
nice one trev!
But....i'd never own anything else!! although a 350z is calling me i'd miss the ford crew too much and i've made too many great friends so i'm sticking with the fords!!
You'll have to post when you find one....would be good to see what you get!
Anything you're not sure of make sure you post...like Trev said you need a goodun!!
nice one trev!
Professional Waffler
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 25,714
Likes: 129
From: south yorkshire
Originally Posted by TrevCos
Right then mate, I've owned quite a few of these over the years. And what the guys n gals are saying is right:
Basically:
Rot:
Battery tray, inner wings, under bodykit, under wheelarches, chassis legs, look at the boot floor where it joins the rear wheelarches. Stuff like that.
Rust or bubbles behind the sunroof etc as said before.
Bodywork generally:
Look out for accident damage, bad panel gaps, rippled panels or badly painted or mismatching panels, iffy welding particularly at where wings join front panel. Stuff like that.
Ringers: Check all the ID numbers and VIN plates are there and haven't been messed with. VIN plates, chassis tag by the drivers seat on the floor under the plastic flap, and make sure they haven't been cut out and/or replaced. And check the engine number if you can find it.
Check the numbers against the log book and DEFINITELY 100% do an HPI Check before buying it.
Engine. Make sure it starts up cleanly on 4 cylinders hot or cold, doesn't tap (too much, they all do a bit) or clatter. Pulls smoothly and doesn't smoke too much. Normal things for an engine really.
Don't buy one without any history because it's more than likely it's not been looked after or has done more miles than the seller tells you.
Also, amke sure it's got a decent amount of MOT on it as well, if it's only got 3 weeks the chances are the reason is that the seller knows it's going to cost a fortune to get it through another one.
I've got to say it's a bit of a minefield. A lot of the really bad ones will have been scrapped by now. But like some of the other guys said, if you're not confident about what you're looking at take someone else with you.
And the 90 spec car is only cosmetically different really, front bumper, rear spoiler and other minor bits. I do like the 90 spec cars best I must say, but I think it's a case of finding a good car generally rather than just going all out for a 90 spec.
I'll warn you, I would say the majority of these cars have had a bump of some kind or other in their life, even if it's minor, so don't go out thinking you'll get something that looks like it's just come out of the showroom unless you're willing to pay top money.
Get a good one and you'll be grinning from ear to ear. Get a bad one and you'll wonder why you bothered.
PS I hope this hasn't put you off, I just want you to go into it with your eyes open. And of course if I didn't love RS cars I wouldn't be here, so that must tell you something.
Basically:
Rot:
Battery tray, inner wings, under bodykit, under wheelarches, chassis legs, look at the boot floor where it joins the rear wheelarches. Stuff like that.
Rust or bubbles behind the sunroof etc as said before.
Bodywork generally:
Look out for accident damage, bad panel gaps, rippled panels or badly painted or mismatching panels, iffy welding particularly at where wings join front panel. Stuff like that.
Ringers: Check all the ID numbers and VIN plates are there and haven't been messed with. VIN plates, chassis tag by the drivers seat on the floor under the plastic flap, and make sure they haven't been cut out and/or replaced. And check the engine number if you can find it.
Check the numbers against the log book and DEFINITELY 100% do an HPI Check before buying it.
Engine. Make sure it starts up cleanly on 4 cylinders hot or cold, doesn't tap (too much, they all do a bit) or clatter. Pulls smoothly and doesn't smoke too much. Normal things for an engine really.
Don't buy one without any history because it's more than likely it's not been looked after or has done more miles than the seller tells you.
Also, amke sure it's got a decent amount of MOT on it as well, if it's only got 3 weeks the chances are the reason is that the seller knows it's going to cost a fortune to get it through another one.
I've got to say it's a bit of a minefield. A lot of the really bad ones will have been scrapped by now. But like some of the other guys said, if you're not confident about what you're looking at take someone else with you.
And the 90 spec car is only cosmetically different really, front bumper, rear spoiler and other minor bits. I do like the 90 spec cars best I must say, but I think it's a case of finding a good car generally rather than just going all out for a 90 spec.
I'll warn you, I would say the majority of these cars have had a bump of some kind or other in their life, even if it's minor, so don't go out thinking you'll get something that looks like it's just come out of the showroom unless you're willing to pay top money.
Get a good one and you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
Get a bad one and you'll wonder why you bothered. PS I hope this hasn't put you off, I just want you to go into it with your eyes open. And of course if I didn't love RS cars I wouldn't be here, so that must tell you something.
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Apr 2004
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Take that list with you and as said, body work and rot can be alot more expensive to sort than a mechanical problem.
Also, if the owner takes you for a spin, make sure he opens it up and gives it a good run, then when you return, see if he turns it straight off, 2 reasons for this
a) turbo's need tiime to cool down so should be left to idle for a while after a spanking, he the owner doesn't do this, it may not have been treated to well.
b) there may be over heating problems, so check out that gauge.
Also, look for leaks before the test run, then again after, the owner may have cleaned any oil leaks up, but a good run will get them leaking again, also check that the oiul filler cap hasn't been blown off or dipstick blown out, think this is a sign of worn rings
Also make sure the engine is cold when you arrive, ask for this before you view, often sellers will warm the car up a bit due to cold start problems. Make sure it's cold, and if you ask for it to be and it isn't, gotta think why??
Another thing to look at is the make and condition of the tyres, if it has decednt tyres on then the owner hasn't been a cheap skate with it, not a reason to walk away but helps build up an idea of how it has been looked after.
Hope you find one, 2K should get a half decent S2 with some reasonable mods that will give some happy motoring.
Also, if the owner takes you for a spin, make sure he opens it up and gives it a good run, then when you return, see if he turns it straight off, 2 reasons for this
a) turbo's need tiime to cool down so should be left to idle for a while after a spanking, he the owner doesn't do this, it may not have been treated to well.
b) there may be over heating problems, so check out that gauge.
Also, look for leaks before the test run, then again after, the owner may have cleaned any oil leaks up, but a good run will get them leaking again, also check that the oiul filler cap hasn't been blown off or dipstick blown out, think this is a sign of worn rings
Also make sure the engine is cold when you arrive, ask for this before you view, often sellers will warm the car up a bit due to cold start problems. Make sure it's cold, and if you ask for it to be and it isn't, gotta think why??
Another thing to look at is the make and condition of the tyres, if it has decednt tyres on then the owner hasn't been a cheap skate with it, not a reason to walk away but helps build up an idea of how it has been looked after.
Hope you find one, 2K should get a half decent S2 with some reasonable mods that will give some happy motoring.
Thread Starter
Virgin
Joined: May 2005
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Thank you all for your info been very very helpful will post pics of my motor when she arrives, going to take my time on this one. selling my 205 1.9 gti so will have more money to put to my RS once again thanks! 
Advanced PassionFord User
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From: lowestoft/suffolk
Just found this 1 looks n good condition and good price too https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129547
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Scotland,Edinburgh
Originally Posted by turbo.jon
Just found this 1 looks n good condition and good price too https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129547
thats my car and your right it is a GREAT car for the money i reckon.espiacially after you all talk of the dreaded rust my cars SOLID underneath in the boot,footwells underbonnet,sunroof is mint which is another nightmare place apparently.its got 2 tiny bits of surface rust from chips not being fixed and left but NO holes at all.
think folk thinf for 2k its going to be rotten
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