(1)can i fit one of thease to my stage 3 t3?
(2)how do i fit it?
(3)what exactly does it do?
(4)is it worth it,or should i just stick with the good old -31??

 

yeah i would also like to know what a external wastegate is

 

An external wastegate is just the same as an internal one, except instead of being in the turbo exhaust housing, it sits on the end of a 5th pipe on the exhaust manifold. Therefore there is no longer a flap inside the turbo, and no longer an actuator attached to the turbo itself.

To do this on a RST would be quite expensive, and show no real benefit. You would need a bespoke manifold made up, plus a new popett style wastegate (Audis, Porsches have these). From the new wastegate you'd need it joining back into the exhaust, or stright to the atmos (the locals will not be pleased!) down a 'screamer pipe'!

TBH you'd be better off ditching the RST exhaust housing and elbow, and fitting a Cossie/Lotus style housing. I have adaptors which allow you to do this without any cutting/grinding or other malarkey. The benefit is a much better flowing exhaust housing, which is not prone to cracking, and is readily available in a range of sizes.

I posted a thread about the stuff I produce - have a search or PM me for some pics.

check google with 'popett' for pics and further info.

 

"can i fit an external wastegate?" oh.....and "what is it"

 

Easily, like that:

 

woah nice bay, esp the ex manifold!

 

Nice

But change the rocker

 

ZVH - top stuff mate! Just one question, why did you bother with the expense of the external wastegate? and was it worth it??

 

Yeah does it still give a fluttering sound as you would get from a normal wastegate. Looks like a expensive conversion. Do you get more bhp?

 

i reckon theres miles more chatter as it looks like theres no metering head! which kills ya chatter!

 

The rocker cover will be replaced by a RS1600i one as soon as I get it finished.

Main reason for the external wastegate in my case was that it makes easier to locate the turbo as you no longer have to worry about actuator aligning etc. Power wise I don't think it makes a lot of difference compared to an integral one. In my case after changing the inlet and exhaust manifold the engine made about 10% more power with the same boost level. Also the boost curve is more stable, no spikes and holds 23 psi all the way to red line

 

Yeah I took a hammer to my actuator rod to make it fit. Luckily it's a Collins actuator and they allow the rod to move (unlike the originals which is just in and out), so although it is not perfect, the actuator appears to work fine. I used a Sierra actuator bracket and rod end, and ERST water and oil unions.

The joys of a DIY engine! Top work on yours BTW!

I spot a EFI fuel rail and light green injectors - home made engine management too??

Check my build on www.ford-orion.net

 

It's running DTA managment, injectors are Bosch 440 cc/min.