another odd fault to ponder over
s2 rs turbo
runs really badly and it hurts my eyes as super rich
things we started with
took all injectors out and turned on ignition with link across the relaypump running , no fuel at all comes out . push down flap and the head squeals and fuel comes out . all good there I feel
from a cold engine under cranking the cold start injector fires , also I can force it to fire by sending a negative to the plug under the manifold that goes to the sensor . again I feel thats correct
once warmed up if I disconnect the plug to the black box by the metering head it also makes no difference , popping through the exhaust and revs at 2 k but it stinks of burnt fuel
all new ignition leads , cap and arm with spark plugs
new fuel pump and tank also filter
if I adjust the 3mm Allen key to make it weaker it runs worse and dies
what am I missing here . changed the metering head and flappy thing assembly for another that was running last week so assume its a good one
thanks ]
runs really badly and it hurts my eyes as super rich
things we started with
took all injectors out and turned on ignition with link across the relaypump running , no fuel at all comes out . push down flap and the head squeals and fuel comes out . all good there I feel
from a cold engine under cranking the cold start injector fires , also I can force it to fire by sending a negative to the plug under the manifold that goes to the sensor . again I feel thats correct
once warmed up if I disconnect the plug to the black box by the metering head it also makes no difference , popping through the exhaust and revs at 2 k but it stinks of burnt fuel
all new ignition leads , cap and arm with spark plugs
new fuel pump and tank also filter
if I adjust the 3mm Allen key to make it weaker it runs worse and dies
what am I missing here . changed the metering head and flappy thing assembly for another that was running last week so assume its a good one
thanks ]
the car has been messed about with before we got it last week . the owner could not get it to run so replaced pump and tank as was rusty he felt .
there is some closed loop breather pot thingy installed , but there is no vacuum pipes going to the air filter and Amal valve is not there , the only vac hoses go to the ecu , brake servo and I cant remember where the other goes as not with the car . thanks
there is some closed loop breather pot thingy installed , but there is no vacuum pipes going to the air filter and Amal valve is not there , the only vac hoses go to the ecu , brake servo and I cant remember where the other goes as not with the car . thanks
Ive wrote loads on this in the Past......are you sure its running too rich !!!...ie...wet spark plugs...sounds like you are with heavy fuel smell..... First you should not buy pass the negative to the 5th injector....as its being cut out buy the "Timer..[ brown plug ] " due to excess cranking of engine....your filling the intake manifold with petrol. also the Co adjuster is very very very fine adjustment....just the tinyest of turning ether way...[ anticlock to weaken / clock to richen ]....will upset things Badly....only way to get it back is Co meter sensor in exhaust , set to 1.3 /1.5......to test for over Fueling...test for injectors...all must come out with there Pipes connected...Fuel relay Bridged [ 87 to 30 ]...pressure will be 30 / 35 psi now at injectors....NO Fuel leaking from nosils should be seen...if is Injector must be replaced...injectors have there own Valve in them...needs 40 plus psi to activate...while your there..push down slowly Flow sensor plate on metering unit...observe spray good and even on all 4.........ALL good...move on to the 5th injector ...has to be removed from manifold..relay bridged..now hear there will be Full pressure.yours...ie new pump / new filter / new Tank..87/90 psi....again no..no..leaking from nosil. now has anyone in the past been been puting 12v at the pressure actuator in the side of the metering unit ??.....as its now U/S ....Cold starting ECU reads the readings from Coolant sensor [ yellow plug ]......ie cold....113k...to...3.6k ohms......hot 80c+...250 to 390 ohms...then sends the correct voltage to actuator to Increase pressure...Auto restets itself via the " bi-metal " feature as engine heats up. so best i can help re you feel its far to Rich....has previous owners been "playing ????"...Co "critical" if played with. Peter
Last edited by OAP Pete; Jan 12, 2023 at 07:18 AM.
I bridged the relay and put a negative to the sensor wire just for testing purposes. Not as a permenant feature. All injectors were out at the time. So no fuel went on to the engine. Thank you. Bill re check everything you have listed.
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