Hi,

I have a Ford Focus MK1 2004 (facelifted). Ive had work done to the rear suspension being the ‘Lower Arms’ or ‘Wishbone’ or ‘Track Control Arm’ – I’m not completely sure of the actual name of that part. I will attach photos of the original problem+after. Photo 1 shows the broken bolt. Photo 2 shows the other side of the same part but where the nut is. Photo 4/5 shows the after. Photo 6/7 shows Anti Roll Bar. Photo 8/9 shows a receiving nut already welded to the Knuckle & this is where the ‘Lower Arm’ will bolt into.

One of the questions is – Does the Nut need to be welded to the bolt in order for it to not move or will a locking nut do the job? (When the nut is tight to the bolt as per photo 3/4 is there any chances of the Nut coming undone?)
The mechanic I got the work done from has cut off the welded nut from the knuckle then attached a nut on he had lying around but hasnt welded it? (He basically had to cut the old arms off)

Another thing is, if you hadn’t noticed.. My Anti Roll Bar isn’t attached because the arms may be the wrong part for my Focus MK1. I will also attach a photo of what the Anti Roll Bar/links looked like before.

Many Thanks

Photo 1

Photo 2

Originally how the rear arms looked like with the anti roll bar + drop links

After

After

Anti roll bar - Driver side rear

Anti roll bar - passenger side rear

Knuckle - section where the outside part of lower arm bolts into

 

It doesn't matter about the nut not being welded.
But, the nut doesn't look like it's a lock nut, the bolt is too short, there should be at least 3 threads of the bolt showing.
The anti-roll bar should be fixed to the arm with the correct link.
It'll fail an MOT on all counts.

Whether it's the correct arm I can't say.

Looking at the photo of the old arms, you need these for the ARB;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCU...wAAOSwZVlXsEN-

 

You can see those rear arb drop links in this pic. These ones are blue Hardrace items but those in the link above will be pretty much the same

 

This is shoddy workmanship, as said, the “mechanic” as said, the ARB is an MOT failure.

Martin

 

Really appreciate the responses.

Basically the main issue here is.. the Outside Bolt for the Lower Arm (both sides) that I purchased didnt come with a Nut (This is a bolt kit that we're talking about) - this was purchased from EuroCarParts.

Ford (Main Dealer) doesnt make/have a Nut for the Outside Bolt (that I know of). When I spoke to parts dept about this, they're saying that a new bolt will go straight through the old welded nut which was seized. This nut was on the Knuckle but seized/rusted so mechanic had to cut it off & he replaced with one of his own (he claims he had some lying around I'm but not sure whether a locking one was used. It looks to be that 2 (locking nuts) did come in the Kit from ECP for the inner 2 bolts.

I'm not sure if theres a specific type of Nut that needs to be used for outer 2 bolts (I take it locking nuts will do).

 

Hi All,

This is my first post as a new member.

I am in the same situation as the OP. So I hope this post will help focus the discussion (Pun intended!):











I am in the exact same position as the OP.

Need to replace both my REAR LCA's on my Mk1.5 Focus too.

The LCA BOLT receiving nuts (Wheel Side) - cannot be salvaged.



A) What are the different approaches members used to tackle/resolve this specific issue? Interested in opening up a discussion to explore possible solutions.

B) I'm in the UK - where would members suggest buying any parts that might be needed.


My thanks to all those willing to contribute,

(apologies for spelling/grammatical mistakes - done all of this on a small screened mobile phone).

 

OP is asking about securing the WHEEL SIDE of the arm. For that side - Ford (UK) only sell the BOLT separately - no receiving NUT.

Instead - they choose to make the recieving NUT an integral/stock part of the Knuckle arm (from factory).

WHY??? (Opinion/guess only) - In order to replace this tiny receiving NUT - you are now forced to into buying and fitting an entire new Knuckle arm ($$$).

I suspect that there is a different approach in the US, where the NUT might be a standalone part.

As the welded nut that is part of the Knuckle arm, is no longer usable - what approaches/solutions can fellow members suggest?

One of the suggestions was to simply grind off the damaged (welded) NUT from the knuckle arm, then grind down the welds/tacks - and separately source a replacement NUT (from somewhere):

A) What would be the correct specifications (Assuming the bolt is the correct Ford BOLT) for the new NUT?
B) Would this new NUT then need to be welded to the arm?
C) What other options are there in solving this problem - other than replacing an entire Knuckle arm?

P.S: I agree that the workmanship in the photos show very poor workmanship. I think the OP had the work done & has caught how badly it’s been done at the annual MOT – and is now asking how to fix the problem.

 

Update:

Bolt is an M12 x 75mm

A) But I don't know the thread pitch
&
B) I don't know the grade of steel required

 

M12 x 1.75 length 76mm grade 10.9

 

That's exactly the information needed, but I think it's different?

A)




B)






C)




Now that I've identified the exact pat number - if anyone is willing to help me find the same details for this one, I'd be most grateful.

 

Update:

The Bolt is definitely an M12 x 1.75 pitch - class 10.9 steel Bolt.

The nut however:





This is definitely not a ny-lock nut.

It uses a different system - with some sort of metal insert locking mechanism instead (to withstand extreme vibration I'm guessing).

Can anyone help me to identify the correct nut - given this new info?


Cheers

 

I found at least 3 different part numbers for the same M12 x 1.75 - 10.9 Bolt.
I listed the cheapest one.

Nyloc will do, just the same as all the other nuts.
It'll be rusted onto the nut after a good downpour.

It's only not nylon so it doesn't melt when it's welded to the arm.
It's welded to the arm to make assembly on the production line simpler, it doesn't need to be.

It'll be commonly used on another make and the manufacturer of the replacement arm is using the same nuts on all arms.

I'll search.

They seem to be called Sprocket nuts, as the type are usually used on motor cycle chain sprockets, (but in fine thread)