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Should a turbo oil feed pipe contain a washer(seal) on a ford focus ?
Many of you may now my current problem, car has been leaking oil from turbo oil feed pipe upper bolt.
my car is a 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 TDCI.
The bolt is crammed in, have about 1 cm gap on the left and quarter a centimetre on the right, I cannot get the bolt past finger tight, but with difficulty I can twist the bolt from where it screws in.
the pipe is cut as it leaked last year so we used reinforced hose and joined that onto what's left on the original metal pipe connected using jubilee clip.
I put bolt back on and it felt tight, I could not get a turn with a spanner so tapped it several times with a screwdriver though the gap was extremely tight to put it through, however when I started the engine it seemed to leak faster than it did before when the pipe wasn't as tight.
Somebody asked if it is missing a seal (washer) but I am 99.9 % sure there was no washer when I removed the pipe and the pipe has been on for about a year without any washer, if it fell off it'd be on the ground and I'd have surely seen it.
So am I right in assuming this pipe does not need any washers (seals) ?
I am almost certain there was no washer on this pipe as it has only started leaking when I hit massive pothole and I saw no washer when taking pipe off.
here is a quick video of where I am stuck, PLEASE PLEASE WATCH AND COMMENT !!!
the new oil feed pipe I fitted to the T3 on my 3dr sierra has a similar fitment at both ends, and neither end had a washer
thank you for your reply.
I may try and loosen the bolt with the bit or original pipe, take it to a few stores and ask around, I may even try and put a washer on it anyway though I can say 99.9% I am sure it did not have a washer to begin with.
have you any advice on what I could do please, any
advice you give is hugely appreciated.
I'm pretty confident the seal is made between the pipe and the fitting on the turbo, and there should be no seal/washer preasent, you may find if the end of the pipe is damaged in any way then it won't be making a proper seal and then you'd need to buy a new oil feed line.
as per other peoples advice, have you seen if you can get a crows foot spanner into the gap as it should be ideal for this situation.
this is what crows foot spanners look like...
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/sealey-ak598-crows-foot-spanner-set-10pc-3-8sq-drive-metric
I'm pretty confident the seal is made between the pipe and the fitting on the turbo, and there should be no seal/washer preasent, you may find if the end of the pipe is damaged in any way then it won't be making a proper seal and then you'd need to buy a new oil feed line.
as per other peoples advice, have you seen if you can get a crows foot spanner into the gap as it should be ideal for this situation.
the end of the pipe looks fine to me the bit which screws onto the base (thread) on the car, no visible damage or war page. ( the other end of the pipe is under the car going to the turbo , cannot see that without jacking the car up but it is not leaking from the other end, it is leaking form the upper bolt at the rear top of the engine )
After hitting a massive pot hole I noticed it leaking oil, so the bolt must have loosened.
Is it okay to file the original bolt down or find a bolt the same depth but with a thinner head ?
what if I decide to get a washer for a D.I.Y. store and put that on, should that help?
A crows foot spanner would not work, the width on either side on the gap is to thick to fit in this tight space.
please reply when possible, I would really like to know your thoughts on this, and thanks again.
i can't ever remember having any troubles replacing the turbo on my old tdci. Can you not remove some parts to gain better access?
thanks for your response
I am not a mechanic and feel uneasy about removing parts that I am not sure what they are.
I have the EGR which is integral with the manifold which may help if I remove that but it means dropping the exhaust manifold, turbo e.t.c. just to get 2 turns on a bolt.
on the right is a bracket and if that was gone I would be able to turn the bolt, I'd have 100 % access but it seems it can't be moved imo without great difficulty.
please watch this video and post your reply, any ideas are greatly appreciated.
the box to the right has wires from it, that can be unscrewed from the bracket, but can the bracket be removed, I cannot see any bolts to remove it . ??
Last edited by FastLife91; Feb 1, 2017 at 12:28 PM.
I am not a mechanic and feel uneasy about removing parts that I am not sure what they are.
I have the EGR which is integral with the manifold which may help if I remove that but it means dropping the exhaust manifold, turbo e.t.c. just to get 2 turns on a bolt.
on the right is a bracket and if that was gone I would be able to turn the bolt, I'd have 100 % access but it seems it can't be moved imo without great difficulty.
please watch this video and post your reply, any ideas are greatly appreciated.
the box to the right has wires from it, that can be unscrewed from the bracket, but can the bracket be removed, I cannot see any bolts to remove it . ??
Unfortunately mate welcome to the world of mechanics, most days I have to strip half a car apart just to get to one bolt. Nature of modern cars unfortunately. Just think you've spent 35 hours on it but could have had it stripped and done the union up and then back together in a day no probs. Sometimes u just have to strip loads to get at one simple thing. That's why I find it hard to give up smoking working in a garage
Whilst you dont show the underside of the pipe/nut, it does not look like it should have a seal, it will probably seal on a cone/taper inside.
Joining high pressure oil line with shitty hose and clips, no barbs on pipes etc etc is a recipe for disaster and fire. Do not do it.
It looks like it would be fairly easy to remove the metal EGR pipe to gain some access to the nut...why arent you doing that ?
Hi
A friend made this hose with reinforced pipe as it was a quick fix because he was off on holiday and I needed to use my car, it has been on for over a year and has never leaked despite the fact we were not able to get a full turn as things were in the way. after going over a massive pothole I notice a small trial of oil and I presumed it was from this bolt and in tampering with it I loosened it so I don't know this is the cause of the original leak.
That metal pipe is bolted onto the exhaust manifold, even if I remove that pipe the exhaust manifold is underneath it and in the way.
out of curiosity does one need to have access from under the car to remove the exhaust manifold ?
it is the 1.8 tdci ford focus (2006 mk2) engine with the EGR integral with a separate manifold.
thanks
Originally Posted by gcfcos
Unfortunately mate welcome to the world of mechanics, most days I have to strip half a car apart just to get to one bolt. Nature of modern cars unfortunately. Just think you've spent 35 hours on it but could have had it stripped and done the union up and then back together in a day no probs. Sometimes u just have to strip loads to get at one simple thing. That's why I find it hard to give up smoking working in a garage
Unfortunately mate welcome to the world of mechanics, most days I have to strip half a car apart just to get to one bolt. Nature of modern cars unfortunately. Just think you've spent 35 hours on it but could have had it stripped and done the union up and then back together in a day no probs. Sometimes u just have to strip loads to get at one simple thing. That's why I find it hard to give up smoking working in a garage
Thanks for your response.
I have the 2006 ford focus with the 1.8 tdci engine, the EGR is integral with another manifold, if I was to try and remove this to get a turn no the bolt would I need to get under the car or will I have enough access from above to remove the EGR and the manifold which the egr is build into and also to remove the exhaust manifold ?
Thanks
Last edited by FastLife91; Feb 1, 2017 at 04:59 PM.
as mentioned you really need to take some bits out the way first to give you access I would tackle that box on the right as it would be easier than the turbo/manifold I would of thought (it must come off?) then take a good look at the fitting for cracks or imperfections that may cause a bad seal. If it's flared inside that nut on the pipe then it shouldn't need a washer (got any pics of inside the nut and the fitting it goes on?)
the answer is to mod a spanner or socket if you dont want or cant strip it apart. has anyone got a focus like this that someone could mod a socket/spanner for him and send it him
as mentioned you really need to take some bits out the way first to give you access I would tackle that box on the right as it would be easier than the turbo/manifold I would of thought (it must come off?) then take a good look at the fitting for cracks or imperfections that may cause a bad seal. If it's flared inside that nut on the pipe then it shouldn't need a washer (got any pics of inside the nut and the fitting it goes on?)
Hello, thank you for your reply.
Yes, the box thing on the right with the wires out of it is bolted onto the bracket thing, but the bracket thing remains in the way and I cannot really see what it is bolted onto, but I think it might be bolted onto the exhaust manifold. If the bracket was gone I would have enough access I'm sure.
The end of the pipe loos fine, the threaded part on the car looks good, It is too dark to get a good photo of the fitting on the car , I took a few pics of the nut he other day and I'll post them here but not sure you can see the inside of it from these pictures.
Thanks for replying and please respond when possible.
the answer is to mod a spanner or socket if you dont want or cant strip it apart. has anyone got a focus like this that someone could mod a socket/spanner for him and send it him
thanks for your reply.
I am not sure if a modified spanner would even fit in there, somebody cut the side bit of a 17 mm spanner for me (bolt is 19 mm) but even the 17 is still a tight fit with not really any room to turn. maybe it needs cutting /thinning a little more
[QUOTE=FastLife91;6719156]Hello, thank you for your reply.
Your best bet is to remove that bracket tighten that fitting back on job done!
if it still leaks go to ford and and buy a new pipe as you may have damaged or bent it from previous attempts that could Miss shape the flare on the pipe. You've already spent 30+ hours on this one fitting I think it's time to bite the bullet and do what others have suggested and start removing things out the way to give you the access, you will kick yourself when you do it and think why diddnt I do that first.
weve all been there mate just don't give up on it
Your best bet is to remove that bracket tighten that fitting back on job done!
if it still leaks go to ford and and buy a new pipe as you may have damaged or bent it from previous attempts that could Miss shape the flare on the pipe. You've already spent 30+ hours on this one fitting I think it's time to bite the bullet and do what others have suggested and start removing things out the way to give you the access, you will kick yourself when you do it and think why diddnt I do that first.
weve all been there mate just don't give up on it
Thank you for your kind reply.
That box with the wires is secured to the bracket with bolts, I took the bolts off and the box came loose, but the bracket remains in place solidly. It has an arm thing as well attached to something, I think the bracket is part of the turbo or it's components and I think this is bolted onto the exhaust manifold.
An old friend came out to have a look today (he's 63-65 and I am 25) and he agreed it was difficult to get at, said that bracket thing and the box is something relating to the turbo and not to move it.
However, he had a last minute thought before he left, He has taken the bolt with him and is going to drill little slots (where each section of the bolt is as it is hexagon shaped so on the line part he will drill a thin groove) and that way we should be able to put a screwdriver in that and make it tight or hit the screwdriver with a hammer while it is in the groove and get the bolt tight.
I really hope it will work, do you think it will ?
That box with the wires is secured to the bracket with bolts, I took the bolts off and the box came loose, but the bracket remains in place solidly. It has an arm thing as well attached to something, I think the bracket is part of the turbo or it's components and I think this is bolted onto the exhaust manifold.
An old friend came out to have a look today (he's 63-65 and I am 25) and he agreed it was difficult to get at, said that bracket thing and the box is something relating to the turbo and not to move it.
However, he had a last minute thought before he left, He has taken the bolt with him and is going to drill little slots (where each section of the bolt is as it is hexagon shaped so on the line part he will drill a thin groove) and that way we should be able to put a screwdriver in that and make it tight or hit the screwdriver with a hammer while it is in the groove and get the bolt tight.
I really hope it will work, do you think it will ?
thanks and please reply when possible
that bracket won't be part of the turbo it's just a metal plate used to mount that box.
i would unbolt the box move out the way and then feel around for where it is bolted to. Just use your hands and feel all over that plate until you feel a bolt.
Personally no, I don't think you'll be able to tighten it up enough.
Just strip everything off you can see, take loads of photos if you're worried about stuff not going back together right.
This job would of been done 2 days ago if you'd stripped what you needed to. The box you speak of it probably the device which controls the vnt in the turbo
that bracket won't be part of the turbo it's just a metal plate used to mount that box.
i would unbolt the box move out the way and then feel around for where it is bolted to. Just use your hands and feel all over that plate until you feel a bolt.
hello
that bracket is connected to the arm thing and I believe it to be mounted to the exhaust manifold.
I am going with cutting small grooves into the nut at the moment and that should work I hope.
Personally no, I don't think you'll be able t
o tighten it up enough.
Just strip everything off you can see, take loads of photos if you're worried about stuff not going back together right.
This job would of been done 2 days ago if you'd stripped what you needed to. The box you speak of it probably the device which controls the vnt in the turbo
hello , thanks for replying.
I am hoping it will tighten up enough to stop the leak and It is a good idea imo.
that bracket is connected to the arm thing and I believe it to be mounted to the exhaust manifold.
I am going with cutting small grooves into the nut at the moment and that should work I hope.
will keep you all updated.
thansk
if it's connected to manifold it will only be bolted on just remove the bolts, I doubt your have to remove the manifold it will just be using one or two of the bolts to fix on the outside of manifold.
In my opinion, tapping the nut, even with a cut out in it to tap against, will never tighten it enough. 30 hours on one nut, think it's time you found a good old boy mobile mechanic, would probably have it done in ten minutes leaving you to drive the car and not worry about oil dripping onto your manifold.
Please mate do yourself a favour and get a good mobile mechanic round to have a look. I don't mean to sound nasty and fair play for giving it a go but from what I can tell it sounds like your not confident at all and don't really understand what your doing, if that pipe suddenly springs a leak shooting oil over a red hot exhaust manifold things are going to get dangerous. Maybe get a reputable mobile guy round with a new pipe and then at least u can be confident to drive it. Like I say I don't mean it nasty but reading what you've written so far it sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
Please mate do yourself a favour and get a good mobile mechanic round to have a look. I don't mean to sound nasty and fair play for giving it a go but from what I can tell it sounds like your not confident at all and don't really understand what your doing, if that pipe suddenly springs a leak shooting oil over a red hot exhaust manifold things are going to get dangerous. Maybe get a reputable mobile guy round with a new pipe and then at least u can be confident to drive it. Like I say I don't mean it nasty but reading what you've written so far it sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
Hello there friend.
As I say I am not a qualified mechanic but over recent months I have followed up procedures mainly from the internet and even at times just used my common sense and have completed jobs successfully saving hundreds of pounds.
I could have attempted removing everything to tighten this nut but It would probably take me over a week to do.
I would have just got a new pipe but the problem would remain the same, how to tighten the bolt enough.
Anyway my friend came back today after altering the bolt, he has cut slots into ti so it is now like cog-shaped, and it is now onto the car very tight but I have not started the car due to the battery being flat, I will start car tomorrow but this really should be the end of the problem, the pipe is on solid.
do you have any thoughts on this ?
In my opinion, tapping the nut, even with a cut out in it to tap against, will never tighten it enough. 30 hours on one nut, think it's time you found a good old boy mobile mechanic, would probably have it done in ten minutes leaving you to drive the car and not worry about oil dripping onto your manifold.
Originally Posted by gcfcos
As for cutting slots into the union not a good idea at all matey
Hello there friend.
As I say I am not a qualified mechanic but over recent months I have followed up procedures mainly from the internet and even at times just used my common sense and have completed jobs successfully saving hundreds of pounds.
I could have attempted removing everything to tighten this nut but It would probably take me over a week to do.
I would have just got a new pipe but the problem would remain the same, how to tighten the bolt enough.
Anyway my friend came back today after altering the bolt, he has cut slots into ti so it is now like cog-shaped, and it is now onto the car very tight but I have not started the car due to the battery being flat, I will start car tomorrow but this really should be the end of the problem, the pipe is on solid.
do you have any thoughts on this ?
The fitting has now been weakened so it will mostly likely crack and start leaking again with the vibration and a few heat cycles. Something like that you do not want to fuck about with, as said it is a fire waiting to happen. Take heed of the advice you are being given, replace the peices of hose you have bodged together and have someone do it properly.
The fitting has now been weakened so it will mostly likely crack and start leaking again with the vibration and a few heat cycles. Something like that you do not want to fuck about with, as said it is a fire waiting to happen. Take heed of the advice you are being given, replace the peices of hose you have bodged together and have someone do it properly.
Problem is now mAte what with the age of the internet no one will listen to mechanics anymore. The amount of google and forum "mechanics" customers we get in at work these days drives me and my boss nuts. If people don't want to listen to my 20 years or as in my bosses case 45 years of 6 days a week Experiance and knowledge then we give up lol. But then on the other hand there's still a lot of useless "mechanics" out there and people willing to rip u off from the start so I suppose u got to give the customers a bit of leeway untill they can trust u.
The fitting has now been weakened so it will mostly likely crack and start leaking again with the vibration and a few heat cycles. Something like that you do not want to fuck about with, as said it is a fire waiting to happen. Take heed of the advice you are being given, replace the peices of hose you have bodged together and have someone do it properly.
Yeeeeehaaaaa
Sorry but it come from the factory without slots...
Really to be right it just wanted a new pipe...
Hello
If I was going to take everything apart I'd have gotten a new pipe, doing it this way meant not having to do so.
do you think everything will be okay with the altered bolt ?
If I was going to take everything apart I'd have gotten a new pipe, doing it this way meant not having to do so.
do you think everything will be okay with the altered bolt ?
thanks
Sorry you've come here for advice
People have give it and you don't really want to listen
I don't know , nobody else will know if your pikey fix will work...
We're all for saving abit and doing stuff ourselves, but the amount of hours you've spent doing this and it may still not work...
50 hours plus lol... I would have wanted to build a full car up in that time
Passionford can be a very helpful place at times, but certain posts can go south very quick...
I'm getting the feeling this one could be going that way if you don't stop this dribble
Good luck, but stop it now... just do what you wanna do and how you wanna do it
Should a turbo oil feed pipe contain a washer(seal) on a ford focus ?
not a good idea at all matey
