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Bore sizing and reliability

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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:06 AM
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Default Bore sizing and reliability

Quick question on 200 block.

Because of needing another rebuild I need to go to 91.75mm on the bores.

What is the consensus on running circa 2 bar and just under 500bhp that oversized??

Trying to work out if I should go liners or not.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
Quick question on 200 block.

Because of needing another rebuild I need to go to 91.75mm on the bores.

What is the consensus on running circa 2 bar and just under 500bhp that oversized??

Trying to work out if I should go liners or not.
Ask your engine builder.

Mark
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:16 AM
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I will when I'm back from Thailand at the end of the month.

Just wanted other people's experiences, isn't that what this place is for?
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
I will when I'm back from Thailand at the end of the month.

Just wanted other people's experiences, isn't that what this place is for?
With stuff like that the builder is best to guide you rather than others as its his come back if it goes wrong.

Mark
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:52 AM
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I'm long enough in the tooth to know who best to listen to!

I was actually talking to Piero and he said to speak to you about what you offer but you only do complete builds don't you?

He priced up a nikasil lined block for me and 10 long studs.
Does anyone go dry liners?

Last edited by jontysafe; Apr 22, 2015 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
I'm long enough in the tooth to know who best to listen to!

I was actually talking to Piero and he said to speak to you about what you offer but you only do complete builds don't you?

He priced up a nikasil lined block for me and 10 long studs.
Does anyone go dry liners?
90% of my engines are dry liners choosing the other 10% being Nicasil and these are used only on my builds.

Mark
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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If it was me id dry liner it to std size.
Westwood liners are good.
but by the time you spend on a 200 block sleeving boring studding would it be better to purchase a alloy block.
Also you will save weight.

Paul

Last edited by costina; Apr 22, 2015 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 02:26 AM
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I've spoken to Martin at Reyland Bout dry lining the block (Westwood) and was surprised how cheaply his can be done, block is already long studded. Alloy block nearly 10 times more expensive!!
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
I've spoken to Martin at Reyland Bout dry lining the block (Westwood) and was surprised how cheaply his can be done, block is already long studded. Alloy block nearly 10 times more expensive!!
You need to look at the specs of the liner size and type of metal used,Just because it looks cheap it may not be the one you need or it may be just what you need.

Mark
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 07:05 PM
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liner is spun cast and stepped and glued in place. I believe where it will be done is where NMS and Reyland engines are dry lined.

Mind not yet made up on that though as I'm currently travelling with work in Asia and need to speak to my engine builder. (Grace engine developments)
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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What material is it.

Mark
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 01:41 AM
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Ductile iron
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
Ductile iron
About Ł125 each is my guess. The labour to fit bore and hone would prob double the cost.

Mark
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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Circa Ł500 +vat supplied, fitted and bored, final hone left to builder
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
Circa Ł500 +vat supplied, fitted and bored, final hone left to builder
Sounds cheap to me
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 03:06 AM
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Slight change of tack!

Selling my block and crank now and have bought newly nikasil lined, oil squirt jetted block with an Arrows crank and Carrillo long rods (ex Julian Godfrey rallyx) also 9.5:1 JE Pistons but may not use these as bloody high cr and I'm not running a 48mm restrictor and race fuel.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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9:0:1 would have been good.

Any idea where you got the pistons from ?

And maybe using a thicker gasket would make the compression lower for you
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
Circa Ł500 +vat supplied, fitted and bored, final hone left to builder
So, do you think an alloy block would be Ł5k?
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Not far off.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:35 PM
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Yea, bout 4.5k then a decent, crank, rods, Pistons then I'd want an alloy head as well so everything expands at the same rate.

I'd put true end built cost at closer to Ł15-20k depending on spec. That's without inlet, exh manifold, turbo etc
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jontysafe
Yea, bout 4.5k then a decent, crank, rods, Pistons then I'd want an alloy head as well so everything expands at the same rate.

I'd put true end built cost at closer to Ł15-20k depending on spec. That's without inlet, exh manifold, turbo etc
Ouch! I love the idea of lopping 25kg off the front axle weight but that is a big outlay. I really would like to long stroke mine but,again, it is really expensive
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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It's not too bad if you don't insist on using an Arrows long throw crank, Carrillo rods, custom CP Pistons.

I posted a thread a month or so ago with a new stroker kit.
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