Interior floor reseal?
Morning folks,
Basically, long story short i removed the carpets ready for a quick vac. To my horror, luckily i found a large patch of rust on the internal gearbox tunnel skin.
Can't quite work out how its started there but the outer skin seems solid enough to treat. So basically i took a hammer and screwdriver to the rest of what i can only describe as bitumen on the floorpan for piece of mind. To my relief its all clean and shiny silver, both passenger and drivers side.
Basically whats the best way to go about re-sealing these areas? I plan to ditch the damp, stinking sound deadening and order some matting to replace it with.
Thanks in advance.

Basically, long story short i removed the carpets ready for a quick vac. To my horror, luckily i found a large patch of rust on the internal gearbox tunnel skin.
Can't quite work out how its started there but the outer skin seems solid enough to treat. So basically i took a hammer and screwdriver to the rest of what i can only describe as bitumen on the floorpan for piece of mind. To my relief its all clean and shiny silver, both passenger and drivers side.
Basically whats the best way to go about re-sealing these areas? I plan to ditch the damp, stinking sound deadening and order some matting to replace it with.
Thanks in advance.

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,772
Likes: 1,050
From: Darlington county durham
Ive heard good things about this stuff so i thought i would buy some. I got mine off ebay for about 20 quid.
http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT--Black_p_11.html
http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT--Black_p_11.html
Bilt hamber rust killer (on ebay) buy the gel and then seal it up with tiger seal. Just kill all the rust after sanding or lightly grinding the worst off (you can get sandpaper discs to go in grinders). Once the tiger seal is dry you can just paint over it with white smooth hammerite.
Remember that most sound deadening matting is very good at stopping vibrations but you then really need a "decoupling" layer on top to really stop the sound like the sound deadening you are removing so a combination of both is best. I think newton commercial do bespoke ready cut kits.
If the floor is getting wet then you need to cure it first though.
Remember that most sound deadening matting is very good at stopping vibrations but you then really need a "decoupling" layer on top to really stop the sound like the sound deadening you are removing so a combination of both is best. I think newton commercial do bespoke ready cut kits.
If the floor is getting wet then you need to cure it first though.
Last edited by Caddyshack; Apr 1, 2015 at 02:07 PM.
Ive heard good things about this stuff so i thought i would buy some. I got mine off ebay for about 20 quid.
http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT--Black_p_11.html
http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT--Black_p_11.html
Liam ,have you had your car up on a ramp to check underneath to see where the water has been getting in? Where its gone rusty is nowhere near anything that has made it wet from the inside. Not trying to tell you what to do but I would want to fix the problem outside and inside.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,772
Likes: 1,050
From: Darlington county durham
Fingers crossed its good. Ive got the wifes focus rear arches to de rust again. I used hammerite kurust last year and it didnt work lol.
Thanks for the input guys. Sound proofint turned up today and i've put the first coat of hammerite on the rear sections for future proofing.
I've had a poke around and ground back the majority of the edges. the outside skin is solid its the inside that's crumbled away. Can't physically see how or where the water would be getting in there. 



Liam ,have you had your car up on a ramp to check underneath to see where the water has been getting in? Where its gone rusty is nowhere near anything that has made it wet from the inside. Not trying to tell you what to do but I would want to fix the problem outside and inside.




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Thanks for the input guys. Sound proofint turned up today and i've put the first coat of hammerite on the rear sections for future proofing.
I've had a poke around and ground back the majority of the edges. the outside skin is solid its the inside that's crumbled away. Can't physically see how or where the water would be getting in there.




I've had a poke around and ground back the majority of the edges. the outside skin is solid its the inside that's crumbled away. Can't physically see how or where the water would be getting in there.





all cosworth's rust on the tunnel water gets in the gearbox mountings on the body shell and it's right under the plastic heater ducts to the rear of the car and it condensates with the heat most are like it just noone ever takes out the carpet and you cant see it from underneath
You are doing the right thing, all these so called rust cures cant better new metal. Do it right and you wont ever have to worry about it again.
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