Cosworth battery in boot
Who's done it? Did you use an open type battery box or closed type? Also have you ran the cable inside or outside the car and what size fuse did you use? I'm thinking of using a 180amp one. (Put an amp clamp on a sprinter and that pulled about 180ish on start up). Also did you fit a central earth point under the bonnet if so any pics.

This is how it was a few years back Andy. Pre-cage behind rear seat next to WI tank & Screenwasher bottle.
No Fuse the cables run in car to Insulated Terminals through the Bulkhead. You simply use the 2 terminals on the bulkhead as you would the normal Battery Terminals. Any Fuses come after that. Im looking for pictures of that at the mo.
Cheers rod I'll have to do a little jiggling about on mine as I've a swirl pot and second fuel pump there. I've seen that exact box on eBay so I'll go for that design. I'm only thinking of fusing it at the battery because if that live wire rubs through and sorts out under the carpet or something it will make quite a mess lol
You can just see the Terminals on the Bulkhead . In my application the Fuel Pumps & a few other bits are fed to the 16V amplifier shown to supply the vital bits with extra Volts even if the Alternator fails. I would never run a Big Power car without that feature where a Alternator failure can result in engine failure.
Volts.
Volts.
Who's done it? Did you use an open type battery box or closed type? Also have you ran the cable inside or outside the car and what size fuse did you use? I'm thinking of using a 180amp one. (Put an amp clamp on a sprinter and that pulled about 180ish on start up). Also did you fit a central earth point under the bonnet if so any pics.
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500 for the main lead and 150 to the fuse box.
I was thinking quite the opposite, I wouldn't be moving the battery to the boot to accommodate it!
Last edited by Martin-Hadland; Aug 29, 2014 at 08:45 AM.
It was no problem having the battery in the boot, I managed to hide all the cabling and run a large power cable to the boot.
Last edited by turbomook; Aug 29, 2014 at 08:57 AM.


Also you don't see the breather as much on an Escort as its tucked up in the bulk head lol. I had planned to powder coat it black, and move the breather filter somewhere with a hose.
I'm not looking to argue over breather set ups lol. Everyone has there own way of doing things and you take advise from who you use. I like the breather set up and battery in the boot don't bother me one bit as the car is used purely for fun.
All I'm after is battery box ideas as there is a few to pick from
All I'm after is battery box ideas as there is a few to pick from
It's very rare for the starter line to have a fuse on it. But if you can fit a fuse that works for you, it would certainly not be a bad idea.
All power to accessory wiring it makes sense to fuse. But bare in mind most of that power comes from the alternator when the engine is running, so a fuse at the battery will only do so much.
A fuse local to the alternator would do no harm either.
All the usual places sell battery boxes of some sort, Merlin, JJC, Demon etc etc
All power to accessory wiring it makes sense to fuse. But bare in mind most of that power comes from the alternator when the engine is running, so a fuse at the battery will only do so much.
A fuse local to the alternator would do no harm either.
All the usual places sell battery boxes of some sort, Merlin, JJC, Demon etc etc
It's very rare for the starter line to have a fuse on it. But if you can fit a fuse that works for you, it would certainly not be a bad idea.
All power to accessory wiring it makes sense to fuse. But bare in mind most of that power comes from the alternator when the engine is running, so a fuse at the battery will only do so much.
A fuse local to the alternator would do no harm either.
All the usual places sell battery boxes of some sort, Merlin, JJC, Demon etc etc
All power to accessory wiring it makes sense to fuse. But bare in mind most of that power comes from the alternator when the engine is running, so a fuse at the battery will only do so much.
A fuse local to the alternator would do no harm either.
All the usual places sell battery boxes of some sort, Merlin, JJC, Demon etc etc
Last edited by ajamesc; Aug 29, 2014 at 06:37 PM.
It may draw say 200A, you use a fuse at say 250A....realistically it wont blow until 300A
You could have a small short of only a few amps which could cause that fire risk anyway. So there is a high chance the fuse wont really protect anyway. Now a good solid cut/short, then yes it would likely blow....or the battery itself.
Fuses dont work miracles, but yes they're better than nothing at all
Problem with a starter load.
It may draw say 200A, you use a fuse at say 250A....realistically it wont blow until 300A
You could have a small short of only a few amps which could cause that fire risk anyway. So there is a high chance the fuse wont really protect anyway. Now a good solid cut/short, then yes it would likely blow....or the battery itself.
Fuses dont work miracles, but yes they're better than nothing at all
It may draw say 200A, you use a fuse at say 250A....realistically it wont blow until 300A
You could have a small short of only a few amps which could cause that fire risk anyway. So there is a high chance the fuse wont really protect anyway. Now a good solid cut/short, then yes it would likely blow....or the battery itself.
Fuses dont work miracles, but yes they're better than nothing at all
I'll have a play about with it. I put an amp clamp on a sprinter and that was pulling about 200 on start up. I've seen the affects of shorted wiring at work twice now. An LF45 road sweeper the driver wired his own interior fan into. He left the wires draped across the foot well that caused the rubber floor to catch fire after shorting and melt the dash. And an older scanina that burnt out after the driver smelt burning under the dash lol
A friend had a rear vent thing fitted to his van years ago for the dogs, the people who fitted it never fused anything and 2 days later the van went up in smoke.
But again low current anyway.
So a 200A or 300A fuse ? Really isnt going to offer the protection you think it might.
use good quality cable, terminations and route the cable as safely and securely as possible.
ie for me that means either inside or at least somewhere not around the perimeter of the vehicle that might be most vulnerable in an accident.
Yep, wiring is dangerous, but that fan wiring might only have drawn 20-30A and was a fire risk.
A friend had a rear vent thing fitted to his van years ago for the dogs, the people who fitted it never fused anything and 2 days later the van went up in smoke.
But again low current anyway.
So a 200A or 300A fuse ? Really isnt going to offer the protection you think it might.
use good quality cable, terminations and route the cable as safely and securely as possible.
ie for me that means either inside or at least somewhere not around the perimeter of the vehicle that might be most vulnerable in an accident.
A friend had a rear vent thing fitted to his van years ago for the dogs, the people who fitted it never fused anything and 2 days later the van went up in smoke.
But again low current anyway.
So a 200A or 300A fuse ? Really isnt going to offer the protection you think it might.
use good quality cable, terminations and route the cable as safely and securely as possible.
ie for me that means either inside or at least somewhere not around the perimeter of the vehicle that might be most vulnerable in an accident.
Maybe put one of those cut off switches with the red key like u see on diggers and some trucks. I got one ready to fit to my saph, at least that way if something happened u could switch the power off and also an extra security feature
whilst your at it take a look at Sonic Booms lithium Ion thread 
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...n-it-runs.html
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...n-it-runs.html
Last edited by Fil; Sep 1, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
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