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Problem with cone links and rose joints.

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:54 AM
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Ones anyone know of any other suppliers of cone links? This is the problem have, I'm making up rose jointed parallel and trailing arms with 5/8 joints but no cone links I can find will fit them. I have both types of Rally Design link shown below, compression links and tension links, but neither will fit a 5/8 joint. They must be available as I've seen them used before.

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I can get around this by mounting them to the sides with a spacer tube in the middle (using the joints ideally on the left hand side as they are 1/3 of the price!) as I have seen others do, but it seems like a bit of a bodge when the proper joints must be out there somewhere. Besides, the tension strut links are £80 a pair which is a lot of money for something which doesn't fit 100%

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The should fit like this

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Anyone have any suggestions?

Last edited by muz; Feb 8, 2014 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:15 AM
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i was told not to use them joints for that application as that area isn't supposed to have all that range of movement
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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Who advices that, out of interest?

If that we're the case I guess you could use the cone link in the hub with a solid mount connected, like the end of a compression strut.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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How wide do you want them for the joint? I have a couple here brand new that might fit.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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A minimum of 20mm, Mark.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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Ive checked mine and they are at 15mm. Why are you putting a bearing at the hub? Just fit one in board to the chassis and a fixed to the cone, you still get the same up/down radius.
That rod is for compliance control so doesnt need to turn.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 05:45 PM
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I think the bearing is there to correct the angle of the tension strut?
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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You dont need a bearing there.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 08:57 PM
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You don't run a rose joint there rose joint gos other end pal
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dingla rs
You don't run a rose joint there rose joint gos other end pal
I thought this as it's a tension strut, but all the RS Turbo kits I've ever seen MEF, Zoo and home made etc run a rose joint there. I'll take a look at the arm angle tomoz
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 09:19 PM
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You will need get that part remade to run a rose r joint
Mate
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Here's more of the part in question. Maybe it is a bespoke part MEF made themselves.

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[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/murray_eversham/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse40a05c9.jpg.html]Name:  image_zpse40a05c9.jpg
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And here's someone running the joint on the side.


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Annoying! Lol.

Last edited by muz; Feb 8, 2014 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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I can see why there is a joint, but a double adjuster and joint on the front would suffice on that setup.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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What do you mean by "double adjuster", Mark? Cheers for the help BTW. Was starting to stress me out.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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These

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That sit here
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One left and one right hand thread so you can adjust the length without removing the arm. If you only have one joint then you use a double adjuster.

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My escort has a similar setup
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:21 PM
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Excellent! That's a massive help, thanks.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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It was brom/zoo that told me not to use that sort of joint there
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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run it this way ,add a piece of metal to fill the middle and weld up


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps94c005dc.jpg


add the metal to the middle and weld round job sorted an run rose joint to side


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps95941381.jpg
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