I'm having a right old nightmare with my 2wd cossie! Iv had the car painted a couple of months ago including the engine bay so I removed the engine and pulled all the wiring loom through the bulk head into the car then had it painted, got the car back put the looms back into the bay fitted the engine turned the key and it fired st right up and ran like a dream with all electrics working. Iv ran the car up a few times since with it being all ok but never driven it yet. About a month ago went to start it up but wouldn't fire up just kept cranking. Iv got fuel in all 4 cylinders and a strong spark but it wont fire at all not even cough. So far iv...

1. Changed the plugs
2. Removed the dizzy and checked and cleaned it and its like new not being that old anyway.
3. Checked the phase sensor wiring again its not that old also check the gap and that's fine.
4. Swapped my grp a coil back to the standard one but didn't help
5. Checked voltage at coil and ignition amp and that fine.
6. Added a new earth to the ignition amp but still the same.
7. Removed crank sensor cleaned it up and refitted it with the correct gap on all 4 lugs on the crank.
9.cleaned every connection plugs that I can
10. Changed ht leads
11. Added extra earths from battery to engine
12. Removed all injector plug while cranking car of to if there leaking bit nothing.

Plus while doing all of the above iv blow all the fuel out of the cylinders so its not flooded even left plugs out a for few night to make sure its dry.

I'm fully out of ideas now other then start replacing things but i'm sure i'm overlooking something but need some outside eyes or suggestions if not what should I start by changing first?

 

Have you checked the fuel cut off switch in the spare wheel well, i managed to trip mine when rebuilding the car? Can you hear the fuel pump priming?

 

Yep checked the cut off like I say im getting fuel out the injectors. When should the fuel pump prime, as mine dont prime when I switch the ignition on but soon as I turne the key the pump kicks in but im sure its always done that all the years iv had the car?

 

from memory mine primes for a couple of seconds when i turn key to position with ignition lights on

 

Have you checked engine timing ? Mine had similar problem after a winter of it being apart and I'd got the distributor timing one tooth out , looked to be timed up on the outside with a mirror - but when took cap and rotor arm off it was slightly out ??

 

Pump should prime when ignition is switched on, if it only does it when cranking, then it isn't a prime and defeats the object .

Have you checked the MAP sensor reference connection and the CTS connector?

Martin

 

No not looked into timing yet that was the next thing I was planing on doing only reason Iv not checked is because iv not touched then engine other then removing and refitting so the only way itd be out is if itd jumped a tooth which I think is unlikely but its another think a can ruel out.

 

Im sure it dont prime but might just be somthing iv never took notice of so il double check that tomoz.

Iv checked cts connection and that was fine plus the sensor is not that old but not tested the sensor its self. As for the map sensor I dont think iv looked into that yet so theres a few things that I can play about with tomoz. Could the cts and map sensor make the car not start?

 

Could be the phase sensor in the distributor as my fuel pump wasn't priming either but was when cranking , as mentioned before mine was because of timing but I think if that was faulty would give the same problem ,

 

If since re-building it you've had it running suggests timing is fine and as far as pump priming when ignition on only does that if fuel pressure in lines to injectors low then primes to bring pressure back up.
Sorry I know this doesnt give you the answer you were looking for.
As an off chance have you got another ecu you could get your hands to try? I've had an ecu fail on me and gave similar syptoms.

 

No I dont have a spare ecu to hand, I fould this on another post so today if I get the tim im gonna go through all the above as mentioned and all of this...


BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECSNOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.*If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)*
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.*

2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.*

3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)*

4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.*

5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.*

6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.*

7) THROTTLE CLOSED:4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.*2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.*

8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:*4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.*2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.*

9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)*

10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.*

11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V.*11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.*

12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V.*12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.*

13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.*

14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.*

15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.*NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)*

16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.*

17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.*Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.*

18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.*

19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.*

20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)*

21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.*However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.*If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.The pump is ok to run continuously

 

Yes, faults with either of these will cause a rich mixture, as can a split or disconnected reference hose.

Martin

 

Is the battery fully charged and have you checked the fpr ?