eny one used this in there cosworth are rst and is eny good

 

Saw this on one of the Wheeler Dealers, and thought it looked really really good.
No pressure on the cooling system dur to the high boiling temp of the coolant, so very unlikely to get coolant leaks

Never heard of anyone using it on here though.

 

i thats wear i seen it mate looks good but cost a lot of money

 

How does it work?
Rich

 

Have a look here.
http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/

Dan

 

my mate vince is running this in his FRS Mk2 and reckons its the dogs danglies and his brother is using it in his mk2 rs2000 around Ł60 a galon

 

Seems pointless, water has very good heat conductivity. Also, if you've got problems with cooling, sort your cooling system out first.
Also, Ł65 for 5 litres?! And you'll lose it down the drain should you have to change a rad or something!

 

its best part of Ł40 just for the pre cleaner before filling it, but its re useable

 

quite the opposite IMO, water is corrosive to engine blocks and rust does build up in cooling system. This stuff will not rot your block.

great idea, especially for new builds

 

 

Can be reused and works for life, i suppose you could filter through a strainer if you wanted.

I like the look of it but the Cosworth system is 7.5L full so it's 2 prep tubs and 2 coolant tubs so around Ł180

 

ouch!!

 

Looks like good stuff but all it would take it a split hose or a damaged rad and you've lost a lot of money!

 

What's the differebce between classic cool and vintage cool?

 

How is that the opposite to me stating facts about water?

 

you "said seems pointless"

i said, "quite the opposite IMO"

 

From what I've read about it sounds good.

 

buy some mate and what u dont use u can give two me lol

 

Ok, it'll stop rust, something that is barely ever a serious problem when it comes to cooling. It's also my opinion that it seems pointless, due to the horrendous cost, and the fact that water does fine, and I've never had problems running with normal water/anti-freeze in any of my cars, on the road, on track, or whilst drifting(a time when the rad isn't fed a lot of air anyway)

 

it is if you're a typical pikey ford owner and only put water in the circuit and not the correct concentration of anti-freeze that is changed to service schedules to prevent corrosion.

but you're right, it shouldn't be. i agree that it sounds like an expensive folly to me too.

 

Genuine ford long life antifreeze 60 40 water will be fine

 

Ive put this stuff in my ST - supposed to bring the temps down quite nicely:

http://www.tegiwaimports.com/motul-i...i-freeze-3321/

 

I like the fact you can take the header tank cap off when it's at full working temp.
Rich

 

its rubbish ive seen it used and its really just a expensive gimmick. if it was that good car manufactureres would use it.

 

I'd imagine when its as cheap as water thats when car manufacturers might start using it

Still think a good cooling system and the right mix of coolant/water is the most efficient way on a day to day basis though.

 

That's an even dumber line of thought than that of zetec-sam.

OEM care about cost, nothing more. Water based coolants get their job done for the warranty life of the vehicle. That's all they need to do.

The Evans stuff works very well if you actually need it. Which 90% of people probably wont. But the fact it wont boil at or anywhere near 100degC and will not create any pressure in the system, the pump will not cavitate at high rpm and it offers better corrosion protection are all good.

Water may offer slightly more heat capacity, but the Evans stuff does work. And if used in an engine that is pushing the coolant very hard, ie highly boosted engines then it can be very worthwhile.

Although on a similar note....running a colder stat does in turn mean you wouldnt be pushing the water based coolant so hard ( ie running it close to boiling ), which is another option, and of course cheaper.

So it's up to you whether it's worth the extra cost or not. And prep fluid would only be needed when replacing water. If it was a new dry build, Evans can be used straight away.
The prep fluid is just there to try and remove as much water from the system as possible.

 

the main advantage I can see from this coolant is for older engines that run hot or for performance engines that reach high temps, for the average Joe in their everyday plodders it will be a waste, but for serious enthusiasts I see it being a must once its gains more respectful reviews

 

Steve to the point as usual i understsnd what your saying about car manufacturers cost is a big issue with them i know i worked for i for 17 years. There are plus points to this coolant but imo not enough to warrent the price as water and the correct antifreeze will in most cases be fine.unless as u stated its a new dry build

 

So my opinion differs to yours so it's 'dumb'? Typical ol' PF right there!

 

When i converted to an electric waterpump (a long story) i re- plumbed the hoses and fitted brass connectors, the organic coolant reacted with the brass connectors, i flushed the system and filled it with inorganic coolant (IAT)/ tescos bottled water (cheaper than distilled water at 17p for 2 litres and no additives like tap water)- total cost about Ł11

50% solution (IAT)= -37 degrees freezing point 107.2 degrees boiling point (centigrade) - but less specific heat capacity - than water/ at higher concentrations - 80% would put the boiling point upto 127 degrees centigrade (70% = 118, 80% = 127, 90% = 142, 100% = 197 (degrees centigrde) - so higher boiling points are achivable with ordinary anti-freeze at higher concentrations) but the reduced specific heat capacity would mean a larger flow/ higher capacity cooling system may be nessesary (so its a balance/ higher boiling point at higher concentrations vs less heat capacity ) - i would like to see more data on the waterless coolant

I de-pressurised the system to put less stress on the (very expensive) electric pump and the original pumps' "shell" (shaft and internals sealed & "flowed" with chemical metal

I did not really know (or care, really, tuning, NOS, turbos etc etc were much more interesting!) much about cooling systems/ antifreeze before converting to an electric waterpump, here is what i learnt -

The organic stuff is meant to last the lifetime of the vehicle and the traditional inorganic needs to be changed every couple of years / 3 years as it breaks down over time and loses its ph value, it (IAT/ Traditional antifreeze) does not react with white metals (copper or brass) and offers slightly better heat transfer than organic/ long life anti-freeze - it is the traditional sweet-to-the-taste "toxic" antifreeze (ethelene glycol) (IAT - inorganic Acid Technology) and less expensive than proplene glycol (organic / OAT(Organic Acid Technology)/ longlife) which is the more modern of the 2, but reacts with copper and brass


The reason manufacturers pressurise coolant systems (putting mors stress on components) is to raise the boiling point, straight water has a 100 degree centigrade boiling point >>>at atmospheric pressure<<< at higher pressures straight water has a higher boiling point
This new type of waterless coolant has a much higher boiling point than water/ water-inorganic mix/ water-organic mix, it can allow a de-pressurized system still with a very high boiling point

Water(+mix) may bave a better cooling capacity >>>up to its boiling point<<< after which the water(+mix) cooling capacily drops off significantly (if there is a system/ pump failure and the engine reaches the coolants boiling point it will stop working (cooling) at that point and also the pressure will rise (steam expansion) and probably blow gaskets/ seals etc loosing coolant - causing further problems eg lowering of the coolant level/ loss of pressure etc )

The new waterless coolant has a boiling point of 180 degrees centigrade, allowing a de-pressurised syetem (coolant system running at atmospheric pressure) to run (putting less stress on components) and still have a very high boiling point (preventing the senario in the above happening at least untill 180 degrees centigrade

So although its more suitable for high-performance and/or turbo engines, it would offer an extra degree of protectiion/ reliability to any engine(in the event of a pump/ system failure) to those prepared to spend the (considerable) extra cost. (thats why its suggested for valuable classic/ vintage cars)

It probably wiil be offered in production cars eventually, ni-cad batteries are much lighter than lead-acid batteriis (but much more expensive) they have been used in computers and mobile phones for 20+ years, Porsche has only recently offerd this as an option on its light-weight "track-day" 911, same with carbon fiber chassis/ parts alloy chassis etc (its all about cost)

 

Glad to see an educated response. I did type a reply last night, but then figured it wasnt worth replying given the ignorant views of such a product. It would just go clean over their heads.

 

I've used Water Wetter in my wifes Lotus Elan Sprint and it really did work, kept the temperature down by about 10 degrees

 

Water wetter and Evans are two very different products.

Water wetter etc try to do what Evans actually does. And as the stat regulates temperatures, regardless of fluid used overall temperature should stay the pretty much the same unless there is an actual problem.

Ive tried water wetter a few times in various cars over the last 20 years, and it's made no difference whatsoever in any of them.

Ive only used Evans on one car, and really have no complaints about it at all. Seems to do what it says on the tin really. It works, creates no pressure in the system and that's on an engine that was pushed very hard and still using the factory 90deg stat. All good really.

 

id like to hear it

have you used the waterless coolant before? EDIT, just seen your reply above!

 

ive got this in my race car actually i think everyone has it in there in our championship, i can come in from a race and open my header tank up and it will be as calm as it was cold, brilliant stuff and well worth the money, and saves a lot of headgasket on older cars aswell.

 

Should be fitted to every Rover with a K Series engine in then
Rich

 

How true .... Lol

 

I'm sure they are, I was just saying I've tried this product and found it to be affective in my wifes Lotus...

 

I presume this would work well on an RST with a front mount intercooler?
My mates car sits just below the red when stuck in traffic and we've tried evrything on it with no luck to bring temps down a bit.

 

It sounds like there is a problem with your setup that needs fixed. Evans is not a cure for a system with a problem. It is an alternative to water that works in a slightly different way.

For an engine that is pushing it's coolant to it's limit...ie water at or around 100degC, then Evans is a better product to use.

But your car should not be experiencing problems in the first place, just like most other cars dont have a problem.