Hi all, got mondeo st tdci estate and its been great until saturday when whilst in some traffic i noticed it was a little jerky on throttle then dreaded flashing glow plug light. I just about got it home and plugged a scanner in which found nothing. I took egr off(euro 4 electric type)and cleaned it but wasnt too bad. Ive tried it unplugged but makes no difference. I had aa out last night and they found no faults and live data looked ok.He doesnt think its injector as the engine is still smooth just no power. I can start it easily and i can see the electric actuator move then just opens wastegate. Dont know if this is the problem or this is how the ecu limits the power. Ive had injectors go before and always bought code up. Just bought delphi fuel filter to fit tonight. Anyone any idea??

 

Brother has same problem

 

Fuel filter would have been my first suggestion. Just make sure you bleed it through properly before trying to start it.

 

Just put filter on(i filled new filter with clean diesel) still same. Im stumped.

 

egr valve

buy a jaguar one for just over Ł100 there the same (thats what I did)

steve

 

Did it not flag up a faut code though?

 

Shame these cars suffer so many stupid problems,their a great package otherwise.
My mate has just had the plug light come on his too,however it's just switched off after a few days same symptoms (albeit a 2.0tdci),maybe the quick cold snap?

 

Yeah its a great car,quite specced up as well with satnav,bluetooth and ford media pack in the rear. I not sure how good the aa diagnostics machine is?? Maybe another would reveal something but i dont know. I can go out to it now,start it no probs and after about 5 secs it goes limp oo err lol. Doesnt tickover rough or rattle etc

 

split boost hose?

if the glow plug light flashes, plug it in before you switch it off

take some live readings and report back

Blocked exhaust?

 

when mine went it didn't put a fault code up!

though as sean has said, check the boost hose under the egr, they have a habbit of splitting

steve

 

Ok cheers ill have a butchers tonight. The aa did a live reading whilst in limp mode but he said everything looked fine? Fuel pressure movin as it should,maf seemed ok. I thought it maybe actuator thing but wastegate is free and even if i unplug it it still goes in limp. i drained the old filter and diesel was clear. Cant see no swarf which i was dreading finding

 

Still the same tonight. Ive tried cleaning the maf and stripped electronic actuator down to check the solder on the pcb but it looks fine.

 

had the same problem with mine about 18months ago turned out to be the egr valve took it to local ford dealer had a new one fitted had no problems since .

 

this is where I bought mine from great service!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDE...item2578132efc

steve

 

Cheers mate,think i might just try one although mine doesnt look like that,it has like a diaphram on the end and elec plug on that. Yours didnt bring any codes up either? I thought they always did.

 

There are 3 different egr valves altogether for tdcis, make sure you get the correct one.
Sometimes water ingress causes them to reverse polarity and stay open when meant to be closed, they don't give a fault code then.

 

Yours isn't a full euro 4 spec then , they did a short run of 3.5 spec which yours is, you will have to go to ford for it

Steve

 

Right, my mates plugged it into his reader today and got p132a. Think this is the turbo control unit. Goin have to have another look at it tonight. I not buying a new turbo for it. He cleared it but soon as its started it comes back

 

The (variable) vanes in the turbine get coked up with carbon from the exhaust, which causes the actuator to sieze or not move to its full extent, this in turn damages the electronic actuator, As far as i remember Ford wants to sell you a compete turbo unit w actuator, you can pick the actuators up on the bay, i heard a rumor that there is one part that fails (the motor?) and it is realatively cheap to replace

An EGR blanking plate fixes all faulty EGR valves, EML may come on but engine will otherwise run fine, costs about a fiver (solid, stainless steel)

 

Can't you get stuff nowadays to "clean" the turbo vanes?
Assuming its a vnt turbo?
If you can clear it from the ecu for a bit then take it for a good blast that could help it too.

 

All Mk3 Mondeo ST-TDCIs (2.2s) have vnts/ variable-vane turbos, controlled either by an electronic or pneumatic actuator, euro3 or euro4 emmision compliant

Cleaning de-coking the turbo on the car (foam cleaner "stuff" etc) often does not work, and a stripdown (turbo cartrige/ exhaust manifold ) may be nessesary the vnt mech is built into the one-piece exhaust manifold

the ST-TDCI does not have a wastegate, the vnt is used to control boost (by the ECU via the actuator) if the vnt siezes or does not function properly it may mean the engine boosts too little or too much/ is set for low or high boost/revs

 

From what i understand p132a is an actuator problem where as p132b is the vanes sticking in turbo. Ive got actuator off now goin get it cleaned and checked. They call this progress!

 

Fair enough.

Sounds like cosmatt maybe on the right path by checking the actuator out first.
I changed a vnt on my merc Cdi and all it appeared to be was a normal turbo with a block plugged on the side which was calibrated to control the boost (i think),otherwise it looked identical to a normal turbo.
Hope it gets sorted fella.

 

Definitely check the actuator first - One of the connections goes on the circuit board. A simple resolder often fixes it. Have a look around Talkford for pics and how-tos.

 

Ive just cleaned it with contact cleaner and checked the little wires around the edge but they still look like they are soldered ok. Will try it later. There is some carbon swarf in there like off the motor brushes. When i start the car it moved to a position then sort of twitches about a bit then just fully opens wastegate resulting in flashin plug light and car been as flat as a witches tit. I have a vw transporter t5 and when that went in limp(overboost) it was still very driveable but this st is dangerous. It struggles to pull off and slightest incline results in 1st gear. Thanks for the help guys, ill keep you up to date on it

 

Sounds like its free to move.
Not sure how it works exactly in a car but my guess is it moves to the extremes of fully open/fully closed first then settles at perhaps a mid point,there's a good chance that it's missing a few readings along the scale and getting "confused".
Could even be the point that it settles is worn and giving an open circuit reading.
I'll see if I can find out some more info on it.

 

http://www.tdisport.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=8202

Found some info here plus if you google ford vnt turbo there's a yard somewhere selling just the actuator bit of the turbo if that's all that's wrong.

It seems as though it can be disconnected electrically and driven round to prove it out.

 

Nice one mate,much appreciated. Bunged it back on tonight but still the same. My only concern is that if i knackered it by pulling it apart the first time,but i cant really see why,and this is "another" problem now. If i could just try one without shelling out for one first i`d be reassured if you know what i mean. No one seems to know these engines very well(can understand why lol) around here and i dont want throw money at it to find its not that. Theres a guy on the bay doin a recon service so might give him a bell. Matt

 

There is also this company who refurbish the electronis actuator if you dont want to tackle it yourself.

http://www.ecutesting.com/ford_monde...o_actuato.html

 

Right,just i quickie, i ordered another actuator today so going try it when it comes. Now will i need to clear dtc when i fitted it or will it come out of limp wrist mode on its own and i can clear it when i get it to mates garage. Thinking of getting f super for my laptop to read/clear myself very soon. Ta

 

Hard to say,my guess would be the codes will still need clearing but no harm will come when you drive it to your mates and he should then be able to clear any codes that come up.
It's really hit or miss tbh.

 

Quick update to help others out one day,blanked egr off and tried it. EML light is on but not fixed it. I will probably leave it blanked though and turn light off via scanner. I managed get a actuator off ebay from a titanium x for a very good price. It arrived this morning and fitted it...fixed!! So even though i couldnt see anything wrong with my pcb in actuator it must of been shot. Thanks for all your input guys